=jon=
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Posts posted by =jon=
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You can get the plates that you put on the inside of the hinge nuts that stop you opening the doors by removing the hinges:
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Yep - I've seen those but they require fairly major surgery to fit..
I was curious as to either why nobody has adapted a 'standard' door catch for deadlocking (or retrofit one from another model), or why LR never bothered with them, despite fitting them to Discos / RRs etc and the latter Defenders coming with all the mod cons like remote locking which would make it easy to operate..
If you secure the hinges and prevent the doors being opened it adds a reasonable layer of security as trying to get through the windows is a pain, and the interior is cramped so trying to defeat something like an X-Eng pedal lock would be much harder..
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Nope:
From the P38(?) or possibly early L322 Owners manual:
As said it's pretty common on most newer european cars - and on RRs and Discos!
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Pretty much every modern car has deadlocking / superlocking that means you can't open it from the inside once fully locked...
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Hi
Just thinking idly about Defender security, and was wondering why nobody has come up with a set of deadlocking door catches similar to have been fitted to every other car in the past 30 years, or if the defender door catch fitments are shared with anything else in the rover range that does have deadlocking? That would stop the obvious route to get in of smashing a window and unlocking a door.
Most of the deadlocks that I have seen are van type bolts with an extra keyhole, which are a bit overkill for most people due to the need to drill large holes!
Also thinking idly - are the rear catches the same as the fronts? Just wondering if you could fit rear locks to the front and trigger the child locks with the solenoid effectively disabling the internal handle. That coupled with remote locking (and no door key locks) would bump up the security a whole load...
Jon
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So you did!
At least it looks like if I can get the cap circlip out and the cap doesn't move I can potentially prod it from the filter side if needed... Looks like a fairly awkward job to do it while everything is in the engine bay though
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Hi All
I appear to have developed a minor oil leak from below on the front cover of my GEMS v8:
It's leaking from the arrow - there's a cap which appears to be held in via circlip.
Google suggests that that the cap should have a viton 19 x 1.5mm O ring on it - but it probably isn't the oil pressure relief valve as that would be above the filter by the pressure switch, but there were various configurations used with ports blanked off when not used.
So - for anyone else that's taken one of these apart, what's behind the cap, and if it's not the pressure relief valve am I going to have a devil of a job getting the cap out. I think there's a blank on the oil cooler pipework above the filter if I need to poke it with something but I'd need to go check...
The leak is more annoying than anything at the moment, but I'd like to get it sorted if possible (preferably without having to remove the cover!)
Jon
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For those with Defender front seats in the back, is there enough space to fit a front centre seat in the middle instead of a cubby? It looks like it would probably fit at a squeeze...
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I do - I'll have a proper look at it tomorrow.
Typically I got it to start on LPG, moved it down the drive to have a proper investigate and in doing so seem to have fixed it - fuel pump now primes as per normal and it runs sweet as a nut on petrol or gas.
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Thanks - there is a bundle of earths back there which goes to the tub. It all appeared to be dry and good condition. Would make sense if the LH indicator lamp on the cluster was faintly illuminated too if they are round there...
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Hi
It appears I have an intermittent bad earth on my factory 110 v8 (originally 3.5 on carbs) somewhere around the fuel pump. Went to start it up today and it wouldn't run - you could hear the fuel pump prime but much less noisily than normal. While it was priming the fuel gauge was sat at empty, as soon as it finished it's prime it would sweep over to the right level. Left hand indicator arrow on the cluster was also faintly illuminated at one point.
I think the pump earth is poor, and its back feeding through whatever else it can off the same loom - so I guess the earth for the pump / sender is crusty. Any ideas where it is - is there one at the back of the vehicle or is it fed 12v and switched to earth somewhere at the front?
Thanks!
Jon
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Do big trucks not have drums because they are air operated rather than hydraulic?
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Sure - will do
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Hmm - I was fairly sure I read somewhere (here potentially) that although the Salisbury was stronger than the rover diffs, there were weak points elsewhere that meant it could still cause issues. If that's not the case maybe overhauling that and converting to discs is the best starting point. I've dropped Nige a PM asking for his advice as he is certainly the man who can help..
Long term plan is to upgrade the front axle at some point as well..
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Thanks - figured I'd need a new prop as part of it
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Hi All
I've got a Salisbury drum braked rear axle on my 110 - it's getting a bit tired and clonky so I'm looking to replace it, and will probably take it as an opportunity to swap to disc brakes and also an ATB and strength upgrades from Nige for any future plans I may have.
With that in mind - what's the best option as a starting point for building one up - looking at ebay there's various TD5 / Puma rear axles listed - or if the diff is being replaced along with heavy duty shafts does it not really make a lot of difference?
Jon
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2 hours ago, miketomcat said:
As far as I can make out doesn't stop you fitting E marked led units, just led bulbs into old units. Ironically the only thing that isn't led on my ibex ate the headlights.
Yep - replacement of the entire unit for an LED one is still fine as long as it has the relevant markings / approvals.
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The AIM units are more motorsport biased though - they also do datalogging from your ECU, drive a digital dash, etc etc - basically if you are building a racecar it can do most of the control in a single unit...
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Quick google refers back to here:
There's a few other options listed on there...
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On 3/3/2021 at 1:13 PM, Sigi_H said:
I experienced the same and this is why i think about building a new loom with a mo.unit from motogadget
I would strongly appreciate it, if somebody knows about a similar unit for cars.
That's really neat! I've not seen similar for cars, apart from the high end power distribution units used by motorsport builds:
https://www.cartekmotorsport.com/power-distribution-modules/
But they are significantly more expensive than what you have linked...
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Spotted on another forum, looks like JE Engineering are having a clearout of Fox +2 remote reservoir shocks:
They are going for £450, looks like that's approx half normal price so a good deal if you are after new shocks!
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Do you have the diagnostics lead - does the gas ECU show an RPM feed in the diag software?
I'm running a GasItaly ECU straight from the RPM feed from the MS..
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On 2/1/2021 at 10:46 AM, FridgeFreezer said:
MS1 will happily run anything, MS2 gains you a bit of resolution in terms of injector opening time and more options to configure wrongly
folks here running MS2 report slightly smoother running.
MS3 is a hot mess of insane over-complexity with seemingly no lessons learned unfortunately. I'm pretty sure even MS1 can do basic traction control.
For the price difference between MS2 and MS3 (about $120 difference in the kit price from DIYAutoTune), I'd say get the MS3 - although it has more features you don't have to use them - there's just more options in TunerStudio that you can leave disabled. You get onboard logging to SD card which can be useful when fine tuning without needing a laptop, built in USB so don't need a serial adaptor and a few other bits and pieces. If you are considering LPG at any point it will also support that much better.
If you did decide to swap engines / add extra stuff you have the option of extra IO if you want it, via the MS3X daughter card. Resale values would also be higher should you part it all out at some point in the future as well...
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If you search on amazon / ebay etc for 'Novsight' you get a whole load of results similar to the above.
folks here running MS2 report slightly smoother running.
GEMS v8 - leaky front cover blanking cap?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Just attacked this - some pointers in case anyone else runs into the same..
Removing is the easy part - circlip came out easily enough, gave the cap a prod and out it came along with a dribble of oil. Be careful when removing that no parts fire themselves at your eyes / corner of the garage / never to been seen again.
O ring does appear to be 19mm x 1.5mm. Apparently you should use Viton rings to avoid the oil attacking them. The old o-ring was very hard and brittle.
Reassembly is the reverse of removal - maybe if you have LR special tool number 798 (oil cap plunger installation tool)
It's a fiddly job, as you have to get everything lined up or the cap binds in the bore, push it in far enough and then get the circlip on and square. If you can do this using your fingers, you are better at this lark than I am! There's just not enough space. I improvised with an 8mm socket and a couple of extension bars to push the cap in, which conveniently would wedge against the chassis rail and hold it pushed in enough that you could get to the circlip groove. That gave me enough space to get the clip on, but it still took a few goes - the clip sits in further than you expect.
I just hope it's stopped leaking now!