Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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As mentioned, replacing the slave cylinder for the LOF one is a big improvement:
Pedal Assist Products - LOF Clutches
You can also replace the clutch pedal for a later defender one (300 TDI or newer I think), which has an over center return spring. If you buy the LOF set this also includes a stronger return spring.
Gazzar, described how he fitted a later pedal to his series here with the LOF over centre spring:
The series 2 has a different clutch actuator setup compared with the series 3 and defender, but the clutch pedal looks the same, so I think it will work.
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On 5/27/2024 at 7:47 PM, Mo Murphy said:
Still no one's going to post !
... tumbleweed 🤣
9 replies so far.
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20 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
No, I think Nate used a 1.9TDI, the above is a 2.0 which is all electronic, common rail etc.
The 1.9 is best for reliability, especially pre-PD. There is not much in it in terms of power, and it all fits on the same bolt pattern, which is here:
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20 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
Given this is an engine swap thread now, it seems only right to drop this one on here:
The test drive is a bit of a non-event, but you get to see the engine in the second half.
He crashed in a wheely bin when reversing. I am probably missing the point of this build; it is a bit of a waste of a 107" I'd say, but each to their own...
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1 hour ago, Anderzander said:
Is that the engine that the YouTube chap ‘dirt lifestyle’ put into his jeep ? The one he used seemed very well suited to a TJ used on and off road.
In fact I seem to be seeing them put in quite a few things in the states - perhaps becoming a bit of a go-to engine swap choice?
They pay big bucks for a VW TDI in the US, as they are quite rare over there. But for us in the UK, these engines and their parts are pennies. I paid £150 for mine.
On 6/3/2024 at 12:06 AM, FridgeFreezer said:It was pretty involved, but i went a bit overboard using a common rail motor with ecu. If you used a mechanical injection vw motor itd be a lot easier. As far as mounting and such goes it was easy. I used a jeep 5spd transmission which they make vw adapters for and from the jeep trans to land rover transfer case (advance adapters make an adapter for it). Since the motor is so much smaller than the rover motor you can use a larger 5spd trans and keep all the stock mounts still. Ony thing i had to fabricate was the engine mounts that bolt to the block. No modifications to the chassis were needed. It fits perfectly.
You can fit them on landrover boxes, like this one:
VW TD Engine swap into Series Rover (66rover.com)
I am aware of someone who did have one in a challenge buggy, coupled to an LT77.
The BMW has an inherent cam chain problem, but that is probably solved by now.
It could be interesting to have an M47, as I believe that has an aluminium block (Edit: BMW M47 = 172 kg).
The VW tdi is 150 kg though, (Edit: heaviest 1.9 is 297 pounds= 135kg, 2.0 is 350 pounds = 158kg) so not heavy for a land rover.
Max factory power is 150 HP I believe, and some mental souls have taken them to 200HP.
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What Land rover use:
I have good experience with this one:
It essentially is a rubbery glue that sticks the sump to the block. It is a bit hard to remove when you drop the sump again, but it forms a reliable seal.
Daan
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58 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Not sure I'd want to be doing a 3 pointer in between the trees if my tail lights cost half a grand
At that price. I'd say It is strictly a Chelsea tractor modification
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Lithium Ion !00A: £239 and 13.8 kg:
Conventional 100A battery £83 and 22.7kg:
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Have you done any exhaust insulation yet? That's where I would start. With a V8, you have 2 exhausts, which are getting very toasty. So wrap the down pipe and ceramic coat the manifolds. You can also try to lift the bonnet at the bulkhead end to create a gap between the bonnet and wings to let more air out.
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10 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
That one has the Ford engine, rather than the by now infamous Ingenium engine, so probably the one to have.
Ps. specifically to Mr Murphy: I told you keeping this section would be useful one day!
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you just need to find the correct donor, disco 2 shocks with different bushes perhaps?
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21 hours ago, landroversforever said:
Sorry for the OT nature of this, and not even remotely LR related unless we count parking the 90 on the front or in the garage when she's finished! Feel free to bin it fellow mods if it's too far off the beaten track.
Has anyone here got any experience with getting house insurance for a property that is both unoccupied and being renovated by yourself? Sticking point seems to the fact that I'm not a qualified trades person, and work is either being done by me/family/friends. The irony of the number of bodges and terrible workmanship we've removed isn't lost on me either
It's currently '4' blank walls upstairs and downstairs, no non structural internal walls left bar one, just finished putting down the new floor sheets upstairs on Friday having prepped all of the under floor wiring and plumbing with my BIL/best mate previously.
I am waiting back on a call from AJG about the renewal after going round the houses with them but I'm really not hopeful at the mo. Renewal came through as needing some questions answered, told that the flooring being up constituted structural work and they couldn't offer cover. Got the flooring sorted only to then be told they still were not interested as we are doing the work ourselves and don't have any kind of liability stuff in place. BIL has gone down the route of reinstating his (business still 'open' but employed elsewhere) for now in the hope that will sort it. It is however, a bit of a worry as last years policy expired at midnight Saturday. A policy that didn't care that we put a 5m hole in the back of the house, it just had an endorsement on the policy for it whilst we were doing it.
Anyone got any ideas? I seem to be up the proverbial creek unless I somehow miraculously qualify as a builder overnight or finish the renovations inside 24 hours - the latter I've not exactly got a great record for
I don't really see the problem, you can insure it and don't mention the not living there bit and renovation bit. At some stage it is wise to update the insurance as the value of your house has increased. By now, the who did it bit does not matter, as they can see the job in front of them. I mean trying to insure something that you are going to do is just a waste of time.
I suppose you have planning involved with this? Again, once done, you can show them planning drawings and they can go from there. You are too early with insuring basically.
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That looks terrible!
Some good skills with thick plate, we need to see the tooling you did for that.
Enjoy your hols.
Daan
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On 5/3/2024 at 7:53 AM, HoSS said:
Yeah will ponder. I have no room for an engine pump. PTO is possible but finding the adaptor for my volvo transfer case is not easy.
I should mention its not for competition, but rather self-rescue on my overlander. I could live with slow if it gets me out eventually.
The volvo adaptor is easy: https://custom4x4parts.com/product/direct-mount-pto-kit-for-volvo-c303/
I would be inclined to not have the hydropack and use the PAS for these functions. Granted, you want to be able to tilt the cab if the engine stops running, but it is something else that you have to carry around and can go wrong.
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On 4/27/2024 at 12:08 AM, tony109 said:
Effectively yes. The OD main shaft fits to the back of the main gearbox so already made, and the 27 helical tooth output shaft is perfect.. It's joining and finding a suitable epicyclic box..
What I meant was swapping the gears over so you reduce the speed instead of increase:
So basically, flip the bottom shaft, so the LH gear set sits on the right, and the RH gear set sits on the left, therefore reducing the speed.
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4 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Another random insight into the design process from Adrian Clarke / the Autopian:
...when all you do is bin it cause it does not fit on a proper sized off road tyre.
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Can't you re-arrange an overdrive so it works as an underdrive?
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John Sales made these for me:
They are based on modular rims, 2 rings are welded in the rim, then cut the rim in half, and you have a split rim. The inserts are PVC tube, sealing is by a large squishy O-ring, which is meant for a manhole cover.
You could make the ID of one of the rings smaller and incorporate a mounting bolt hole pattern to fit them to the hub.
I had them down to 2PSI in the swamps, no problems.
O-ring between the wheel halves:
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18 hours ago, dangerous doug said:
I think @Daan mentioned he can draw up rings to make double internal beadlocks
The design is ready:
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On 4/9/2024 at 10:18 AM, elbekko said:
The GLE (non-coupé) is about the only SUV outside of JLR's lineup that I can stand to look at, but it's certainly no looker. Everything else seems to have all dem anglez all over. Especially the Japanese stuff, barf.
But still, the D5 is just a needlessly ugly thing. If it actually had had a spare wheel on the back, it wouldn't look nearly as godawful.
Let's not forget the Koreans though:
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On 4/15/2024 at 10:39 AM, FridgeFreezer said:
Well, seems a good time to throw @Daan's signature in here:
Amen to that!
It's just a quote...
With the transfer box, the O-ring is only 1 place where it leaks, and when it does, it can and potentially does leak everywhere else as well. There is also the bottom cover and drain plug (both leaked in my case).
Be care full when tightening up the drain plug to FT, because someone at Land rover (who I hope has now been sacked or retired) decided a fine thread in an aluminium casing is a good idea.
Also, the seal inside brake drum (could well be yours by the looks of it), between the casing and the speedo drive, and best of them all, between the gearbox and the transfer box. The last one is important, it can leak as mud gets in there and makes a nice groove in the wear bush, as it does with the prop shaft flanges. Replacing this wear bush is rather involved, but possible. I bought a puller to do this job, but the bush put up a big fight. I won the fight, but it was not easy:
All the best,
Daan
Mog 404 axles
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
Wheels look realy good, Stephen. Do you have a picture with them all mounted to the car yet?
Oh, and my picture of the shortened mog diff was before you had even thought about it!
Daan