Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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I have nothing to add to the printer tips, but can comment on the design, Hollow shapes with constant wall thicknesses is the future. It cuts down massively on material usage and process time compared to making things solid, while also reduce shrinkage.
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ET0 gives you a 16mm wider track compared to ET8. This my landy with 35x10.5x16 tyres, which have a metric size of 285/85/16 size (same width as your tyres basically) with ET08 offset rims:
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ET08 with 285 width tyres should be virtually flush with the eye brows (I assume you have a 90).
Standard ET is 33mm, so the rim comes 25mm further outboard compared to standard, plus half the added width of the tyre.
I don't think the lift matters much, but you might have to trim the eyebrows a bit on full lock, full bump.
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19 hours ago, Luca italy said:
The aluminum tube was placed for imitation. I had to disassemble it to insert the box. As seen in the photos the tube housing is closed. They must have placed the tube to prevent customers from thinking it was different from the original.
Classic Chinese attitude.
Let's hope it works for the long time because in Italy the original left-hand drive Adwest costs 2230 euros plus VAT
I think the reason why the steering is heavier is that before installing it I counted two rotations to the right and two to the left. With 360° + 360° you reach the maximum turn for each side.
How many rotations are required for the Adwest pump pump?
It looks fairly well made from these pictures; thanks for posting.
On 1/8/2024 at 1:22 PM, mik711 said:Just checked the lock to lock on the truw steer box and it's approx. 3 1/3 turns with a set of 33 12.5 15 tyres on. Don't know if my lock stops are adjusted or standard. the box appeared a little stiff on tickover so maybe the pump on the 4.2 needs slightly more revs than the 300tdi used to.
Thanks, Mik for posting this up.
Daan
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This may sound obvious, but a spare wheel is something not many people carry. 'I've got one on the trailer' is the usual comment, before they ask you to borrow yours.
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Can't you just offer up the diff and drill through?
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1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:
but folks often tell themselves "I couldn't do that" for no reason.
I think the reason that most people really couldn't do that is that they cannot maintain focus and motivation for that long.
The main thing for finishing a project is not skills, money or facilities, it is to maintain the focus and keep at it. Many people give up along the way. You had 5 years at it, and still keep going back to it. You are part of a special breed!
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Congratulations Stephen, and thanks for providing LR4x4 with meaningful content.
To put things in perspective: We started our project threads at roughly the same time, you managed 174 pages in this time, and I managed 6!
Regards, and keep going!
Daan
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6 hours ago, miketomcat said:
I keep pointing out to him that just fitting a big electric winch makes far more sense than messing about with hydraulic. Especially as in his words "I've barely needed a winch so far". He could have it sorted in a weekend instead of messing about for months. In fact if @FridgeFreezer were to fit an electric motor to a H14........
Mike
Telling John it makes sense is probably the reason he won’t do it; how does owning not one, but two 4.6 v8s ever makes sense to, well, anyone?
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11 minutes ago, Nonimouse said:
Fridge is right about scrutineering members though. All you do is upset people, because essentially you are questioning their build, which equates to the size of their manhood.
Scrutineering is only needed for people that cannot read. So you don't question their build but their ability to read the rules.
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15 hours ago, Nonimouse said:
The 'God Given Right' mob are particularly stubborn in the UK. I would ban any tyre over 35" in diameter and 10.5" in width. Personally I feel that loud exhausts save lives, but I loathe the noise of popcorn limiters and find rolling coal to be absurd; however an Alpha Romeo 3.0V6 with four cams and many valves, hitting 10k rpm is as the song of the nightingale to my ears
I have always thought 35" diameter should be the bar for comps and possibly pay and play; beyond this land rover axles are not reliable, and you will need something stronger, which gets expensive very quickly. But people said it stops development so it fell on deaf ears. Now we are in a situation were comps cannot make up the numbers because the cars are running 40" tyres on spidertrax axles which very few people can afford.
With regards to tyre size having an impact: on 35" tyres, you will have ruts that are 12.5" deep, on 40" tyres it is 15" deep, add portals, and the ruts are 21" deep.
So I think there is an impact, but of course the driver is the main factor, no doubt about this.
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23 minutes ago, Nonimouse said:
What would the consensus be on having set tyre size and type rules, noise rules, speed limits etc as well as things like 'the rule of three'?
I would welcome some regulations for offroad events myself, I have campaigned for this in off road competitions for years. but nobody likes to be bound by rules in this country.
Ok, this is not about competition, but it means people have to amend their cars to comply, which would not be popular. I mean if you were to ban portal axles for example, you would have at least 2 forum members unhappy.
I agree though that if we want to keep doing this, we need to be a bit more gentle with the land than we are now.
Not sure what 'the rule of three' means?
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A big loss for sure. I am somehow glad I went the last time.
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Compared to £150 for OME, I'd say that is not expensive, and how does this compare to the Billys, which was the original question?
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Fox ifp's are hard to beat in terms of ride and not that expensive:
I have bent the shafts on full suspension travel though, due to the rubber bushes being very stiff (pin to pin mounting). I would buy them again, but run a spherical at the bottom.
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2 hours ago, Stellaghost said:
Just the usual pottering on........
Regards Stephen
This.
Daan
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That looks good Doug, definitely 16" rims at any price,
The question is, will your axles get used in 2024?
Daan
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On 12/12/2023 at 10:44 PM, jeremy996 said:
Just had a check around the auctions I used to frequent and only Newark seems to be open to the public, https://www.newarkmotorauctions.co.uk. There is a stock list on the website.
Both BCA and Manheim seem to be aggressively "trade only", Aston Barclay seem to set a more accessable bar for the part time trader, (business account and motor trade policy), https://www.astonbarclay.net/trade-application
It appears Astonbarclay does allow civilians: you can turn up on the day, pay a £400 deposit, and make bids on cars.
5 hours ago, Simon_CSK said:Raw2K and Synetiq. Both have a registration fee. For Raw2K it is £20 payable on purchase of the first vehicle and lasts 1 year for Synetiq I use my brother's account but from memory that is £50 per year.
I check the MOT history and check the photos carefully. I try and work out how long the Police have had it and what the circumstances are for the seizure don't be put off by no keys as the owner will likely have told the police officer, taking his car away, to go F himself and throw the keys away. The police aren't bothered to look for them and the recovery driver has a great big winch. I can give to the low down on getting keys if the need arises.
My current car I have been driving for 3 years, needed keys and the front end was bashed in only issue I had with it was getting the speedo clocks repaiered which is a common fault on Sports and Discos. It came from the police.
Ok, thanks, that could work. I noticed most cars at Synetiq don't have a V5. Does this mean you get it back after an inspection?
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1 hour ago, Simon_CSK said:
I buy quite a few cars through salvage auctions. The police seizures are often a good buy but you pay the money and take your choice.
Which ones do you use?
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1 hour ago, Jeff in Stroud said:
· Are Britpart swivels worth fitting? I've seen opposing opinions on this. Paddock Spares has an offer on these at the moment and I'm tempted!
There has been an inherent problem with these breaking in half, which is a problem obviously. Not sure how they are now. I fitted genuine ones to be sure.
· As with swivels, any thoughts on Britpart stub axles?
No experience
· Do I need different front stub axles (different bearings size) to accept the Ashcroft CV joints?
No.
· Will early Defender 23 splice CV joints work with Ashcroft 24/23 spline front haft shafts? This would be an economy measure, but I'd buy genuine land Rover CVs, not aftermarket.
Yes, you will need the earlier wider hub. This is the best setup IMO. I am running these with a torque biasing diff on 35" tyres with no failures. With the ash locker that goes fully solid, you might start breaking CV's on 35" tyres. If you leave the tyres as they are, I'd say use them. These CV's are on back order from Landrover ~I believe, so not availalble genuine new I think. I have genuine used ones, and they are still ok.
· Ashcroft suggests omitting the rear axle oil seals to allow the diff oil to get right out to the drive flanges and so lubricate them. It seems like a good idea to me. Any thoughts?
I prefer doing this, and have done in the front axle as well (with oil in the swivels). Bearings last almost forever in oil and your seals last longer. The downside is that if you have an oil seal fail, all the oil will go.
On the flipside, you potentially won't notice a problem with grease, untill the wheel falls off.
Many thanks!
Jeff.
Answers in red.
Regards,
Daan
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6 hours ago, Shep The Disco said:
Not too bad a looking .is that a public byway?😁
I think it is actually a public road. The Google Maps camera car has been there; when dry obviously.
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4 minutes ago, Shep The Disco said:
Not too bad a looking .is that a public byway?😁
Absolutely! We kept our feet dry, so not too bad.
Daan
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…it’s a bit wet here!
happy 2024.
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On 12/27/2023 at 10:07 AM, elbekko said:
So I shouldn't post pictures like this?
No, keep the pictures coming; I just think you should consider not coming back to Belgium….
1985 2.5 petrol defender 110
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
An increase in compression ratio will make it more efficient. I was running my 2.5 petrol on a 9:1 ratio (from 8:1) by using a 2.25 head and skim it enough to get the right volume in the combustion chamber. I ran it on LPG, not sure if that is an option in your area.
Electronic ignition, try to get rid of the points will also help. I found the ignition to wander quite a bit over time and it was missing on tick over. So a stronger spark that keeps the timing will improve things.
Perhaps mega squirt it, but that is obviously more involved.
Is your driving low speed or does it involve motor ways?