Daan

Wheels look realy good, Stephen. Do you have a picture with them all mounted to the car yet? Oh, and my picture of the shortened mog diff was before you had even thought about it! Daan

As mentioned, replacing the slave cylinder for the LOF one is a big improvement: Pedal Assist Products - LOF Clutches You can also replace the clutch pedal for a later defender one (300 TDI or newer I think), which has an over center return spring. If you buy the LOF set this also includes a stronger return spring. Gazzar, described how he fitted a later pedal to his series here with the LOF over centre spring: The series 2 has a different clutch actuator setup compared with the series 3 and defender, but the clutch pedal looks the same, so I think it will work.

9 replies so far.

The 1.9 is best for reliability, especially pre-PD. There is not much in it in terms of power, and it all fits on the same bolt pattern, which is here:

He crashed in a wheely bin when reversing. I am probably missing the point of this build; it is a bit of a waste of a 107" I'd say, but each to their own...

BMW M47 in series: (20+) Video | Facebook

They pay big bucks for a VW TDI in the US, as they are quite rare over there. But for us in the UK, these engines and their parts are pennies. I paid £150 for mine. You can fit them on landrover boxes, like this one: VW TD Engine swap into Series Rover (66rover.com) I am aware of someone who did have one in a challenge buggy, coupled to an LT77. The BMW has an inherent cam chain problem, but that is probably solved by now. It could be interesting to have an M47, as I believe that has an aluminium block (Edit: BMW M47 = 172 kg). The VW tdi is 150 kg though, (Edit: heaviest 1.9 is 297 pounds= 135kg, 2.0 is 350 pounds = 158kg) so not heavy for a land rover. Max factory power is 150 HP I believe, and some mental souls have taken them to 200HP.

What Land rover use: I have good experience with this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184293788834?itmmeta=01HZDBQJ4AQTRQ7S58M3EGJA3E&hash=item2ae8c40ca2:g:XToAAOSwj4VdcAOd&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4K9oORdLHQKEQYk%2Bik87PuzUPojCirElB4haC4t%2FjWMRo5gz%2B%2FY40ihc5c%2BL1tz--zyLRQ1Fz%2Fe6Az1efuDEv65CLy0n9lJkkATFBUEeiF74XktV1AZAPQOzY%2FZbDv4Dqdw1c1rX%2BvH2a9kU5K7mlmfu3BHF1VK0nXL%2Ff2FOJYPr1LiSAytDpeI0tz%2FkJf4gpfa6YHWZuHXLZxePQPIBJP7g%2FRCffmK3RHFOF4ffkgMAqYG%2F9wLY5ZdYFti5bn2uVfhWfvO2lxnvrZ9%2B%2BRSQcPJ%2BAgI6jiCgy%2FRe0GgCErYq|tkp%3ABk9SR6Si3qv7Yw It essentially is a rubbery glue that sticks the sump to the block. It is a bit hard to remove when you drop the sump again, but it forms a reliable seal. Daan

At that price. I'd say It is strictly a Chelsea tractor modification

Lithium Ion !00A: £239 and 13.8 kg: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126507856696?itmmeta=01HZDAN5ETD7PVW7WG7P2MQNDN&hash=item1d7474b338:g:LGsAAOSwlEJmWa8s&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8FntuRg6uWTTixELvAwgUYR%2FYtVTLvSVdA0a5SSIYV%2BDvMpyctEPH%2BcTmNDPBO7LsIgntOCe572JjgYmXxnnSia%2B9pGov86OrmfrmD98P96R8RampQg8by5A08TrEMuaDlzKFiQtFmTlZKsukPxNuC9lc2ubFkwpGDWx483tfY4aA6LvRLcAkxCmGN%2BuiqmTeqCA0Js3pAkDjnejA2gZc1EveQVvjJIU%2BOY%2Fakko7%2FrU2mfc44I9Jd2UvEOqyq%2FWIfs62SdP8HV8Edbjo9Ew1vyp63CedA4D6Xg0Zcea%2BJ5KS6Z0SpAJO6p66poqBsmOHQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMwtfUqvtj Conventional 100A battery £83 and 22.7kg: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252078006941?epid=15034764818&itmmeta=01HZDASF06NVHGSFDDSC8NV3R9&hash=item3ab105229d:g:vUkAAOSw79ZknXiz&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwGnqy%2FXkUWy3QHUVaazF1UYHcH9J2TTEgivXhoCh5QD5HsUxuiM%2BlsyJnhr9mr6xg2ep%2F33ontDHFwPzV2qch%2BbQOiFnwhRj%2BlSRK4ojPoQmcDXisSrZzj1Y1YbqkvnY%2FLNr0fp7HaHRxHYkGyMOjXyNv3sKqMwNfcOm1qad8LZ%2F%2B2r3PBK8EBi5Z1XA8vn22fWniXCQza4sj59PNIamm4Y%2FSSjFv8WvOcRMyg9uTyjyfDGW8Q1ZrFwgTLYSRwUaFw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6Lw5ar7Yw

Have you done any exhaust insulation yet? That's where I would start. With a V8, you have 2 exhausts, which are getting very toasty. So wrap the down pipe and ceramic coat the manifolds. You can also try to lift the bonnet at the bulkhead end to create a gap between the bonnet and wings to let more air out.

That one has the Ford engine, rather than the by now infamous Ingenium engine, so probably the one to have. Ps. specifically to Mr Murphy: I told you keeping this section would be useful one day!

you just need to find the correct donor, disco 2 shocks with different bushes perhaps?

I don't really see the problem, you can insure it and don't mention the not living there bit and renovation bit. At some stage it is wise to update the insurance as the value of your house has increased. By now, the who did it bit does not matter, as they can see the job in front of them. I mean trying to insure something that you are going to do is just a waste of time. I suppose you have planning involved with this? Again, once done, you can show them planning drawings and they can go from there. You are too early with insuring basically.

That looks terrible! Some good skills with thick plate, we need to see the tooling you did for that. Enjoy your hols. Daan

The volvo adaptor is easy: https://custom4x4parts.com/product/direct-mount-pto-kit-for-volvo-c303/ I would be inclined to not have the hydropack and use the PAS for these functions. Granted, you want to be able to tilt the cab if the engine stops running, but it is something else that you have to carry around and can go wrong.

What I meant was swapping the gears over so you reduce the speed instead of increase: So basically, flip the bottom shaft, so the LH gear set sits on the right, and the RH gear set sits on the left, therefore reducing the speed.

...when all you do is bin it cause it does not fit on a proper sized off road tyre.

Can't you re-arrange an overdrive so it works as an underdrive?

John Sales made these for me: They are based on modular rims, 2 rings are welded in the rim, then cut the rim in half, and you have a split rim. The inserts are PVC tube, sealing is by a large squishy O-ring, which is meant for a manhole cover. You could make the ID of one of the rings smaller and incorporate a mounting bolt hole pattern to fit them to the hub. I had them down to 2PSI in the swamps, no problems. O-ring between the wheel halves:

The design is ready:

Portals and more:

Let's not forget the Koreans though:

It's just a quote... With the transfer box, the O-ring is only 1 place where it leaks, and when it does, it can and potentially does leak everywhere else as well. There is also the bottom cover and drain plug (both leaked in my case). Be care full when tightening up the drain plug to FT, because someone at Land rover (who I hope has now been sacked or retired) decided a fine thread in an aluminium casing is a good idea. Also, the seal inside brake drum (could well be yours by the looks of it), between the casing and the speedo drive, and best of them all, between the gearbox and the transfer box. The last one is important, it can leak as mud gets in there and makes a nice groove in the wear bush, as it does with the prop shaft flanges. Replacing this wear bush is rather involved, but possible. I bought a puller to do this job, but the bush put up a big fight. I won the fight, but it was not easy: All the best, Daan