Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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4 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Another random insight into the design process from Adrian Clarke / the Autopian:
...when all you do is bin it cause it does not fit on a proper sized off road tyre.
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Can't you re-arrange an overdrive so it works as an underdrive?
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John Sales made these for me:
They are based on modular rims, 2 rings are welded in the rim, then cut the rim in half, and you have a split rim. The inserts are PVC tube, sealing is by a large squishy O-ring, which is meant for a manhole cover.
You could make the ID of one of the rings smaller and incorporate a mounting bolt hole pattern to fit them to the hub.
I had them down to 2PSI in the swamps, no problems.
O-ring between the wheel halves:
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18 hours ago, dangerous doug said:
I think @Daan mentioned he can draw up rings to make double internal beadlocks
The design is ready:
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- Popular Post
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Portals and more:
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On 4/9/2024 at 10:18 AM, elbekko said:
The GLE (non-coupé) is about the only SUV outside of JLR's lineup that I can stand to look at, but it's certainly no looker. Everything else seems to have all dem anglez all over. Especially the Japanese stuff, barf.
But still, the D5 is just a needlessly ugly thing. If it actually had had a spare wheel on the back, it wouldn't look nearly as godawful.
Let's not forget the Koreans though:
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On 4/15/2024 at 10:39 AM, FridgeFreezer said:
Well, seems a good time to throw @Daan's signature in here:
Amen to that!
It's just a quote...
With the transfer box, the O-ring is only 1 place where it leaks, and when it does, it can and potentially does leak everywhere else as well. There is also the bottom cover and drain plug (both leaked in my case).
Be care full when tightening up the drain plug to FT, because someone at Land rover (who I hope has now been sacked or retired) decided a fine thread in an aluminium casing is a good idea.
Also, the seal inside brake drum (could well be yours by the looks of it), between the casing and the speedo drive, and best of them all, between the gearbox and the transfer box. The last one is important, it can leak as mud gets in there and makes a nice groove in the wear bush, as it does with the prop shaft flanges. Replacing this wear bush is rather involved, but possible. I bought a puller to do this job, but the bush put up a big fight. I won the fight, but it was not easy:
All the best,
Daan
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We require pictures.
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Hi Reggie, nice landy and welcome to the forum.
Going back to the original question, and looking at these prices I'd get a Turners re manufactured defender 200 TDI engine send over. Any local garage can fit it, you only need a matching TDI radiator pack and exhaust to make it fit, a pure nut and bolt conversion.
A newer gearbox (LT77S, rather than the LT77 you have now) with a 1.4 transfer box would make it more use able, but it is not strictly necessary.
I don't know about your local workshops, but by making the job easy to begin with, any back street garage can do the work.
Regards, Daan
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6 hours ago, Stellaghost said:
Surprised to hear that, have used ProComp ES9000 for the last 35 years or so, never had an issue with them, loved them, only swapped to Fox because of the weight of my mog axles
Regards Stephen
I had them under mine since 2002, and they lasted a very long time with a lot of abuse. It seems at some stage in the production of these, the been counters took over and the quality nose dived as a result.
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About 2" of lift, generally.
GB springs tend to get the nod (coloured blue):
Land Rover Parabolic Springs - GB Springs
Or rocky mountain (coloured black):
Rocky Mountain, Parabolic Springs
Britpart (coloured grey) tend to get a bad write up due to having a harsh ride, but no experience myself. I have seen a lot of these offered second hand on ebay, there must be a reason for this.
The rear springs tend to be too high, so I would definitely go for 2 leafs, depending on the weight of your car.
Please let us know what you decide to go for and your findings.
Regards, Daan
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I have used the KAM 4.75 since 2002 and they are still going strong. There is a problem with the bolt size of the crown wheel, which is BSP I think, of which there is very little available- there is Hex head bolts of a very low grade, or cap heads, which clash with the bearing cap. I resorted to using the low grade hex head bolts and loctited the crownwheel to the diff flange, which has held out all this time. One thing to check if you go with KAM.
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Polaris disguised as a Suzuki:
https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=7395601253858497&set=pcb.7395619827189973
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8 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
Is that the same as @Daan modified for use in his hybrid?
Indeed. I reckon there is a manual somewhere deep down in my 'archive' but it is a simple nut and bolt job, and assembly is the reverse of disassembly as the haynes manual says.
You won't get parts for it of Superwinch (I think they are no more), but all the bearings, seals, chains and sprockets are Generic standard parts that can be obtained through the usual suppliers.
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On 2/23/2024 at 8:31 PM, pat_pending said:
I think the golden age of building/modding road going vehicles is gone, maybe not the off roaders though.
I remember an awful lot of crazy stuff being knocked up in lock up's, sheds, and at the roadside, usually with minimal tools.
A mate built a Range Rover/series hybrid (when they were the in thing) in two abandoned council lock up's, with power from a nearby lamp post, another built a chopper in the spare bedroom of a ground floor flat.
Alas, youth and enthusiasm gone and too many regulations today.
I've just remembered, one of our group had a 109 with a six pot Jag' engine in it that was positively dangerous!
I think we are now spoilt with much better cars; we used to do engine conversions, disc brake conversions, coil spring conversions, because the old stuff was just not very good. Now, we don't have bad cars anymore (although there are a few un reliable ones!).
Also, the SVA is mandatory on a lot of stuff, and people don't bother, even because of the above. What I also see, is that potential donor vehicles are getting rare and sought after, which does not invite to modify them. What we see more of, especially in offroading is brand new builds, like in Ultra 4. I much more liked the old days were people modified production cars. I was more accesible back then, now you mostly need tons of money to compete. Do I sound old now?
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1 hour ago, elbekko said:
I'm starting to see why you want something other than a 200TDi
If a TD5 can be had for not much money and is easier to find spares for, then I'd say it's a no brainer. I agree with the others that you're buying a new unknown, but at least a new unknown that doesn't eat cams for breakfast
Wish you were closer by, I'd happily lend a hand and a vehicle.
Yes, but a TD5 does eat heads for breakfast, and they are not cheap either. Ok, not a regular thing, but cracking around the injector is a well known problem and shows up with fuel in the oil and eventual death of your engine. A clutch problem, like you have now means a new dual mass flywheel, which is probably double the price to replace. Rebuild it, and it is 5 pistons instead of 4. So know what you wish for.
i personally choose a TDI over a TD5 any day, but it depends on your uses. If you do many road miles, maybe a TD5 is better suited, but for off roading, the low down grunt of a TDI is hard to beat IMO. The 2.8 TGV version would be my ideal engine, combining the low down grunt and simplicity of the TDI with the power of a TD5.
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42 minutes ago, miketomcat said:
Yes I had that engine years ago and that one snapped a cam pulling of the drive in our 110. Sold it on as parts about 5 years ago.
Given current developments and a lack of disco 200's I am starting to lean towards buying a td5 disco to strip. But it's academic until I've finished the job that'll pay for some of it.
Mike
How is the clutch problem looking?
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On 11/13/2023 at 8:58 AM, Daan said:
Rebuild your spare engine. Looking at the Turner's website, a rebuild engine looks expensive, but the parts are really cheap.
I am telling you what you already know, but as they say advice is what you ask for if you already know the answer, but wish you didn't.
Daan
About 6 pages ago....I would start pulling that spare engine apart and see how bad it looks. I get the point about having to buy another car costing money, but you have 2 of these unreliable, well used barges, and having a cheap but reliable run around increases your chances to get to work by around 100%. I mean who is to say the other TDI is going to last the distance. I have similar thoughts about our dailys, both of which have seen better days, so for now I just make sure the Landy starts on the button, so I could always use that as my back up in case of a problem. Having options basically.
Good luck with the budget rebuild and show us pictures!
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6 minutes ago, Snagger said:
Are the prefix letters denoting the form of the steel, like S for sheet, T for tube and EN for a block or ingot (enlarged nugget 😉)?
S means structural steel. T45 means 45 Ton/sq inch tensile strength.
EN stand for Emergency Number, created pre-WW2 and is still used today.
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EN24 is technically not weldable, but I am sure people managed at home. En36 is for case hardening. En14 is generally used for machined parts which need welding.
S355 should do for most fabrication jobs.
If you want to go fancy with T45 roll cage tube, the appropriate grade of sheet steel is S515:
Largest stockist of S514/ S515 sheet steel - Proformance Metals
This bunch sells anything you like and don't reply with annoying things like 'trade account only' or 'minimum quantity'. Phill mats is a lovely chap too, here is the ebay store for groovey metals:
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21 hours ago, miketomcat said:
You misunderstood I ment but it for around £1k then sell other bits to recoup some of the cost.
Either way I have to remove and refit the engine. So yes buying, stripping and fitting a td5 would be a fair bit of work but probably no more time than rebuilding a 200 and replacing the current one.
At the moment I'm weighing up the options. There is another option involving a body shell in someone's garden. But no matter what I do it's spending at least £1k I'm just trying to make the best use of time and money long term.
Mike
The problem with a sub 1k TD5 conversion is that is more kicking the can down the road. It is no different to fitting another worn-out 200 tdi; Either is going to fail further up the road. Whether you fit a tdi or td5 is not the real question here, it is whether it is a good engine that lasts you 10 years without problems. If it is your daily driver that gets you to your daily income, it has to be reliable. Car broke = no income.
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You cannot use a railco type swivel onto a two bearing swivel or vice versa. Ask me how I know...
Daan
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Epicyclic Underdrive, for LT76
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
What I meant was swapping the gears over so you reduce the speed instead of increase:
So basically, flip the bottom shaft, so the LH gear set sits on the right, and the RH gear set sits on the left, therefore reducing the speed.