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Posts posted by Daan
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35" tyres, spotted in Iceland:
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20 minutes ago, Happyoldgit said:
I suppose there could well be a cut, fabricate and weld solution but I wonder what warranty implications there might be?
If you start re-routing the exhaust, and your DPF starts clogging up, they will wash their hands of it. Plus the galvanized body would start rusting in the area where you cut it.
These would not be things that particularly worry me, but I cannot leave anything alone, so probably not representative of the average customer that just spent 60k+.
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So, the Grenadier has been out for some time, and people are starting to modify them:
Reulsport was early, with a lift kit, rock sliders, and chunky wheels:
https://www.reulsport.com/produit/braid-winrace-t-8x18-ineos-grenadier/
Black sheep innovations, more for the overlander:
https://www.blacksheep-innovations.com/en/ineos-grenadier-2/
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So the footrest is the most talked about problem of the grenadier: I did sit in one at Goodwood FOS, and I cannot say that would be a deal breaker for me. Perhaps it is on longer journeys?
But it seems it is the deal breaker for a lot of people.
So I presume it covers the exhaust. I took a piccy as there was one elevated:
I can see a grinder/welder-based solution turning up before too long, looking at this picture.
Taking out the floor insulation lowers it by about an inch:
Any one had a go at this yet?
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Sell it before the PCP lender repossesses it?
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I thought it was a good review; He is honest, not just bashing stuff, but also pointing out good things.
I mean, he had to borrow a Grenadier from a friend, as Ineos wouldn't give him one to try.
Because of this, he could easily have made a very bad review, but he didn't.
The footrest, which he thought was a non-item at the beginning, was the deal breaker in the end though.
I reckon Jim will have to use his persuasion to the best with Magna Styer, as that footrest is hurting sales for RHD countries.
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Is the footrest the result of exhaust routing? Can it be modified?
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The ozi explorer is testing one:
Must admit, I want one.
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30 minutes ago, bishbosh said:
I think with your personal knowledge you shouldn't be scared of a dealer. You also have the sale of goods act on your side so at least a 6 month warranty.
Do your research on the dealers and go for it. No reason that an auction is going to be any less risky, even if you might save a few quid on the actual purchase price.
I bought my last car (5 years old, not a Land Rover, sorry) online, sight unseen. Did the usual checks (HPI etc) and it has a full main dealer service history which I could view online. Had it delivered to my home at which point I examined it and was happy to accept it.
I am not scared of a dealer, just of their prices.
I bought my previous car with a full 3 year VW manufacturer warranty on the VW financial services auction for ex-leased cars. The auction is where the car traders buy, I just trying to undercut them by £1500-£2000.
There is very little comeback to used car traders in my experience, so why pay extra for it?
I found this one, looks like some good stock, and allows civilians:
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Can you go smaller in engine size? The Ford Ecoboost engine looks like a good option, and will definitely be more efficient:
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On 12/13/2023 at 9:48 AM, Nonimouse said:
A 200 usually boosts to .8 bar from the factory. It's possible to get over 2bar from the OE set up, but 1.4 was always deemed a safe max. Rather than an exploded lump, you'll usually just get a blown head gasket, or if your injectors are dribbling, a melted piston
a 200 is 12 psi, or 0.83 bar
a 300 is 12.5 psi, or 0.86 bar
a 300 auto is 15 psi, or 1.03 bar.
So I'd say 15 psi or 1.03 is the highest that Land rover approves and will be save to use on a TDI. This is what I run, and that works very well with it.
Very important is also the inlet temp after inter cooler, if this temperature is too high, the gains are a case of diminishing returns, and also give high EGTs.
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On 12/12/2023 at 10:44 PM, jeremy996 said:
Just had a check around the auctions I used to frequent and only Newark seems to be open to the public, https://www.newarkmotorauctions.co.uk. There is a stock list on the website.
Both BCA and Manheim seem to be aggressively "trade only", Aston Barclay seem to set a more accessable bar for the part time trader, (business account and motor trade policy), https://www.astonbarclay.net/trade-application
Astonbarclay is a no go for normal people with the motor trade policy, the newark one looks ok, but not that much on offer.
On 12/13/2023 at 8:50 PM, western said:There's Brightwells at Ludlow, might be worth a enquiry
That looks a good option, and even a few landys! Registered for Brightwells.
14 hours ago, pat_pending said:https://www.letchworthmotorauctions.co.uk/
Try this lot, though I don't think there's many bargains to be had in the current climate.
Trade insurance only on this one.
Thanks for the reply's so far.
With regards to values, the tables seem to have turned in recent months; Although prices were through the roof since covid, the cost of living crisis has now stopped people buying anything flashy, and a few cars are being repossessed from PCP deals due to people defaulting on their payments.
Range rovers prices especially have more than halved since a year ago, but this is mainly down to insurance I think.
Looks like people are downsizing on their cars, and the only cars that sell well at the moment are 5k or less bargain basement cars.
I will monitor prices over the course of 2024. We are in no rush, as our current cars still work.
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Hi, I am looking to replace both our daily drivers over the next year. I tend to avoid dealerships and car traders as they cannot be trusted (just my opinion).
My current car I bought at the BCA car auction in 2012. You used to be able to get registered for a nominal fee, then turn up and raise your hand at the right time.
Since Covid, however, normal people are no longer welcome at the major auctions, only car traders.
Is there any car auction that still welcomes normal people and has reasonable say 5 year old cars?
Midlands preferred, but willing to travel.
Daan
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It also depends if you are living in an area where defenders get nicked a lot. If your car is on the drive way or in a garage makes a difference to this risk.
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A higher compression ratio will help run it more efficiently as well. Skim as much of the head as you dare.
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Flux has been good to me.
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I am fairly sure the full size and sport rangerovers use identical running gear.
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4 hours ago, Nonimouse said:
Nice American chap. Lives in Colorado. He's the modified Flat Fender guru, and 225c Oddfire V6 guru. His thing is biggest tyre on no lift. But he's very switched on.
You'll find his various build right ups on Pirate and Overland Forum. He's also on FB under his name, and the on the FB Flat Fender page. His 'hobby' is here https://brennans-garage.com/
Genuinely nice bloke, very black and white though
I saw that website on my trawls of Google. Sounds like he uses the same principles on his Jeep that I used on my Land Rover.
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9 minutes ago, Nonimouse said:
Daan, have you seen any of Brenna Metcalf's Flat Fender stuff?
Tell me more.
Daan
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With the exhaust done, it is time to get the body fitted. My brother-in-law came over from Prague with his 2 lads to come and visit Goodwood FOS, so I had 3 bodies at my disposal to lift the tub on:
I knew it essentially fits, but a few details need modding: one body mount on the chassis needs to move 30mm forward:
The gear tower on the gearbox sits higher and therefore needed a larger hole cutting in the tunnel:
This is essentially all it needs to fit the Willys M38 body on to the Mahindra chassis. Further mods were needed as a result of fitting the PAS box and the VW engine.
The body mount clashed with the oil filter, solved with a grinder:
The PAS box is clashing with the RH front wing. There is a large speed bulge for the battery, and this almost clears the PAS box. I just needed to move the front joggle forwards by 50mm:
On the LH side, the PAS pump pully interferes with the wing. I did a big cutout where the reinforcement rib is and made this the location of a step in the vertical portion of the wing. An intended dent is there to avoid the PAS pump feed pipe, and I extended the cut out for the shock absorber:
The Willys grille just bolts onto the Mahindra grille mounts, but there is a 3rd mount in the middle on the Willys grille, which the Mahindra chassis does not have, so I made a bracket (no picture).
Mounted, it all looks like this:
It now looks like a proper car, which is a great motivator. I think the front height looks about right, but the rear sits far too high. Not sure what to do here yet:
Thanks for reading!
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You cannot get the bushes separately, and they have a larger OD from standard bushes.
There is a solution with polybushhes:
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That's my kind of back garden:
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Series 2 "Restomod"?
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
Cool, see you at seven sisters next year!
Daan