adam300Tdi90

There are two ways of ensuring that you get the correct preload of the hub bearings. 1. The method in the workshop manual - Tighten the adjuster nut to the correct torque (I don't have a socket big enough to do this!). It seems like you are doing it this way? 2. Use a box spanner and tighten the adjuster nut whilst spinning the wheel, you should have smooth running of the wheel and be unable to 'wobble' the wheel (when grabbing it on each side). If tightening the adjuster nut slows the pace of the wheel too much it is too tight, but if you can wobble the wheel it is too loose, there is generally an adjustment which just stops the wobble but keeps the wheel running smoothly. If not, maybe the bearing track didn't seat correctly. HTH Adam.

Champion, as always Was looking in the right place but armed with a part number, I found it straight away. Thanks again Western.

Hi guys I am looking for the seal which sits inside the swivel ball and sits against the driveshaft (stops oil transfer from axle to swivel grease). Also number 8 in the picture! I have two items in my paddocks basket but I can't find the seals on there!! PS: I doubt it (Because I can't find it in what they sent me), but is it any of this: Consists of 2x 606666 Roller Bearing, 1x 571752 Drive Flange Gasket, 1x FTC3401 Swivel Seal, 1x 571755 Swivel Seal Retainer, 1x FRC2883 Shim, 1x FRC2884 Shim, 1x FRC2885 Shim, 1x FRC2886 Shim, 1x FTC3646 Gasket, 1x FRC4206 Gasket, 1x FTC3648 Gasket, 1x FTC3276 Seal, 1x STC3435 Swivel Grease As I bought the swivel kit (no ball), then realised that my balls were shagged!

I'm not sure they did, if so do I really need to buy a 200tdi rear prop? If so why? PS. will I have to set up any bearings after taking off the old flange? I read the tech article and it says for some you will for some you won't..

I think there may be some confusion.... I have a defender 300tdi, which as standard had a 4 bolt rear propshaft flange. I am fitting 300tdi disco axles, this pair has a 3 bolt (with rubber coupling) propshaft flange. As an aside question, do the axles all have the same ratio, can I expect any difference?

You guys are amazing

How do I do this? Do i have to buy a new propshaft flange for the back axle? if so how do I remove the old flange from the disco axle?! Help!!

Hi All, I am swapping my land rovers chassis to a new galvanised one. I have now got the Axles off the old chassis and scrapped it, problem is, I had to cut into the old A frame brackets (they were so rusty anyway they were seperating into layers!). Does anyone know where I can get these from? I have seen LrParts do them but quite frankly I am not willing to pay £150 + VAT for a pair of brackets!!! Thanks in advance! Adam.

There are three later type diesel engines: 2.5TD (Generally has the word 'Turbo' on the back of a standard truck). This is not direct injection, and are known for their faults with turbo lubrication and head gasket issues (never owned one, just common things I hear said about them). 200tdi This is the first of the direct injection engines, according to Landrover not quite as good as a 300tdi as the 300tdi was created to improve on it. However, I have heard people say they were the best type, but I never hear any justification for that!! 300tdi, the engine i have, the pinnical of LR's direct injection engines (before all the electronics!). Some parts are more expensive that the 200tdi parts, but mine goes and goes and goes.

Having just done this I know what you are going through... The nuts and bolts on the back were even more corroded than yours in the picture, I tried a little angle grinder, a big angle grinder and a hacksaw on all the nuts/bolts but in the end, due to accessibility problems, I cut through the actual mount on the outrigger tube... Once off, cut the nut and bolt off and welded the mounts back onto the chassis. But by the looks of yours though, why not take the time to replace the entire outrigger tube? EDIT: Although this is a 'bodge' I suppose, but I was losing patience. A nut splitter, if you can find one which will fit in the area, is the correct way..

East cost rover - Lift whole body off

Ihave seen that some companies literally disconnect the body (plus electrics etc) and winch it off the chassis, replace the chassis and winch it back down. I am not set up to do this at all so I have broken mine down to: Tub, seatbox, Bulkhead (Wings, sills attached), Roof (Windscreen and sides attached). I'm sure you could do less breaking than that but somethings on mine had to come apart for reconditioning or access to crusty bolts... Now I have a rolling chassi and I think you need a new one to swap over from here.... HTH

Excellent, thanks for your inputs guys! Just placed my order with Richards! 4-5 weeks wait that I wasn't ready for but I suppose I have a fair bit more to get on with before it gets down to me. I will be putting my pics up here as a sort of picture diary, so if anyone else has any info/advice/things to remember that would be helpful during my build please post away! Theres no such thing as bad advice! I do have some questions up front though; Does anyone ever paint their galv chassis as a second layer of protection? Does a list of all bolts used in a defender exist? I want to (need to) replace all of them really and I wanted to place a bulk order with a Nut and Bolt company. Cheers again! Adam.

Hi All, I am very close to ordering a new chassis for my project. But there are so many chassis suppliers! Before I spend all my hard earned savings in one go, I wanted to start up a discussion on which companies chassis is the best??!! A friend of mine has said Richards Chassis are very good, but i have seen that the Marslands ones have a new design gearbox x-member and adjustable rear x-member to tub mounts. Are these just gimmicks which, on an accurate, well-made chassis are not needed?? Anyway, I'm discussing too much and not listening to you all enough!! Any other info/secrets that people who have done this know please tell!! Adam

LOL, yeah I think we'll give Poulshot a miss next time, somebody has chewed it up real bad!! It was still good fun though, great to meet someone from the forum. What do you think to another session soon? Let me know when you're free.

Doh!! Oh well mate it's an open offer. We go out most weekends now so just give me a ring if you're free and fancy a bit of a play day... Eveyone else: Final plans have now been made for this evening. We are meeting at the Railway Inn in Westbury at 9pm this evening. Feel free to just turn up or give me a ring... Cheers, Adam.

Gotta go away from the computer now, if anyone reads this now and fancies coming along you'll need to ring me on above. Cheers, Adam.

No worries, there will be other gatherings. I'll just post on here (normally more in advance), or if you're going out give me a ring. Adam.

Calling all Forum members. I have a group a three or four vehicles going laning this evening. If anybody would like to also come with let me know and I'll fill you in on exactly where we are meeting and contact details for the group. Cars will probably need simply mud tyres and basic recovery kit. Having said that we will be happy to pull anybody out all evening long!!!! To give an idea of the grade of the lanes, mine is a standard height Defender with insa turbos and it was just difficult enough last time! Our group will be meeting in or near TROWBRIDGE, WILTSHIRE. My number is 07976 SPAM BLOCK 132095

Hi Chaps, I've been trying to diagnose why I have to stomp on the brake pedal to stop! I removed the vacuum pipe from the servo and started the engine and there was no detectable vacuum coming from the pump. Therefore the pump is buggered right? Can someone who has replaced this recently tell me where they got theirs from, was it the cheapest in their opinion. What actually goes wrong with the pump and is it fixable? (I have seen an article in the tech archive speaking of this but the link no longer works) I have my MOT booked for Thursday, do you think it will pass like it is? You can stop the car and very quickly, but you really have to stomp on the pedal. My arguement would be that the brakes are fine but completly unservoed, but they let unservoed cars on the road. Will this stand up in the court of law or is it wishful thinking? Many questions I know, any opinions appreciated, Adam.

How do you know?.... (sorry couldn't resist)

Hmmm, seems like they may have changed at some point. Anyone have any of those exploded diagrams that would tell me? How do you guys normally find out this kind of info?

Hi Guys I have replaced my standard seats with some old ones I had in an Alfa 75 I chopped up. I have already made some custom seat rails but these need to be bolted to the original Landie seat mount nuts. Does anyone know what size these nuts are and if different (I'm not too aufait with bolt size conventions, is there someone who could educate me in this area too? ) the size of bolt i'll need that can just screw into the nuts in the seat box. And lastly, where can one NOT get a version of RAVE and Workshop manuals online. Thanks for any help, Ads.

I live in wiltshire, and a see on average 25/35 defenders a day. Most wave when I am in mine.....