adam300Tdi90

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-bristol-20493058

If it's leaking, and you're going to relace them IMO you may as well do the lot.. i.e. bearings as well. As you have to take all of it apart anyway. But that might be just me. Regardless, buy genuine seals unless you wanna waste your time..

As we know.... it's all relative

Hi Mr Pie Eater (good name) The Hinges are different in that they have nylon inserts.. if they have nylon inserts they are TD5 or later. I think you need to draw us a picture.. From what you've said: "It's the gap between the two parts of the hinge. It's huge on the drivers side and nothing on the passenger side. Not alot of play in the hinge either. I end up with the hinge sat flush with the front of the bulkhead and the door hitting the top side pannel. No amount of wiggling on either top or bottom hinges seems to bring it round properly." I have no idea where the gap is. "Between the two parts of the hinge" makes no sense mate Better txt desciptions: Gap is between front of door and bulkhead. Gap is between back of door and rear tub Need to say if the gap is linear.. ie. one dimensional (Up/Down/Left/Right) (this would indicate that the space for the door to fit isn't correct) OR the top rear of the door frame isn't quite against the B piller/roof/tub.. (this would indicate you need some shims somehwere..) get what I mean?..

I'll bet you it's just the Drive flange / CV Splines have coroded away and the grinding noise is what's left grinding away, when you try and move the car forward. Have you taken the rubber caps of the end and had someone try to move the car forwards while looking at the splines? As others have said too, either you have another similar problem on the rear axle, or your centre diff isn't locking too. But I bet above is still the main issue.

Hmmm barking systems... do you have a dog with wheels for back legs?

Ideally yes... for economy of effort more than anything else. However, I have just seen your other thread. Are you only attempting to fix a swivel leak? (I.e. the swivel seal looks old and replacing it will fix the leak?). Or do you have reasons for replacing the lot? You can just replace the swivel seal, you can do this by removing the entire assembly from the axle case. 6x? 12 point bolts which you can't get a socket set on... ring spanner is the only real way) These are located between the swivel ball and the axle case.. (IE the bolt above number 20 on the diagram above)

Understood, it's generally the same for me too. I'd suggest you don't need a new swivel pin... but it depends how old the axle parts are. I think you should use genuine seals, bushes and bearings, but it doesn't matter about gaskets (in the axle) Have you seen this: Here is a picture of the swivel, with the hub removed:You need to remove the hub as: A. you are going to be testing the preload (level of resistance to the swivel bearings) which is what is happening here. B. You will need to press in the bearing races. C. Everything is much easier with everything stripped down

Sold... does that include import/export costs? Editted to be more helpful.. I don't suppose you put the clutch slave on the wrong way? The bleed screw should be at the top...

How far have you got? Have you stripped the landy yet, or do you need to use it everyday and have the parts to fix it ready when you disassemble?

These are sold because apparently they solve the issue where larger tyres do not self centre. Is it rubbish Mr Freezer?

Any chance of you taking a picture still?

Why's that snagger? (I have a richard's chassis too)

That's Bonnatti Grey..

Unlimited mileage, and free breakdown cover

Just a little recommendation: Footman James do a classic car policy (any car over 15 years old). You do not accrue any NCB (which could be seen as a downside). However, at the time I was 25, I have a 1996 Defender 90, which has a winch, w/bumper, rock sliders, 2" lift etc..etc. Basically quite modified. All mods have been reported to Footman James. I rang them up, said I have heard about them on a Land Rover forum, and within minutes they quoted £136 fully comp for the year. At which point I bit their hand off. Editted to say: I also have an agreed value of £9000 which was confirmed after sending them pictures of the Truck and a load of reciepts.

Oooh err, Ms Lewinsky?

I put a constant 15 tonnes on my ball joint when changing it, it wouldn't budge. So it tapped the housing with a hammer while in the press, and all hell broke loose.... came out tho, but be careful, it also nearly lodged in my head...

I did just this the other day. I was servicing my hubs all round and upon tightening the last bolt, it snapped (damn rattle gun ). After I took the flange off again, the broken bit was inside the hub (nothing poking out). Disaster.......at least I thought... I started to drill the broken bolt out with the hub in place and once I got a small indent in the broken bolt, I used a large posi screwdriver (an old one) and hammered it in to the broken bolt remains (one big smack to indent the driver into the broken bolt). I managed to get just enough purchase to slowly turn out the broken bit using the posi driver and a small flat head... tapping the broken bolt round and round. Use loads of Duck oil/WD40. If it works, it'll save you hours of disassembly... If it doesn't apologies, the others have given you good advice.

(10k boost) Is it ok to add down the snorkel/side breather? Or do you have to take the filter out?

So do you still think there's another problem? I would say that even though you struggled to get the rusted drive member off, you would be lucky to get drive back on that wheel. So when you hammered the drive member back on and got drive, you 'fixed it'. Now all you need to do is put it back together with a new CV joint and drive member. Where are you in the world Mr Rotten?

This is due to the CV joint splines and the drive member. I had exactly the same problem once. If you replace the CV where the splines have been worn away and the drive member, the problem will be sorted. Although having said all that, your point '6' doesn't makes sense to me really. How come, when you fixed (bodged ) it in 'point 5', you then stripped the other side?

Done this recomendation before, but I'm with Footman James, on their classic policy (any car over 15 years old). I do have another car, so it's only really good for people insuring their second cars. All my mods are covered, unlimited mileage, no no claims (on this policy, and I won't accumulate any either). £130 for the year.

Surely the main difference (besides indi fnt suspension?) is the fact that Defenders do not have body mounts, well more accuratly, have solid body mounts. The difference between a defender and an RRC is huge and this is the main reason IMO.

I bought the wright off road system, and whilst it has quietend it down a bit, it is still a defender at the end of the day. However, the mat is very practical, I can still pressure wash it out and it does look very nice and rugged. To really silence the beast you will need to strip the interior and install "Dynamat" or an equivalent as well as the wright off road system. Having said all that, mine is a 300tdi and I can have a conversation easily at 60mph (pretty much top speed with the off road wheels on). I would have thought, with a v8 and the matting (and the fact yours is a truckcab and so don't have big panels drumming all the time), you will be happy.