adam300Tdi90

Hi All, I know the part numbers (they are NTC2159 (No.29) and NRC9678 (No.5)). My old pick up and return pipes have been fractured and are very crusty, so i need to replace. Does anyone know where I can get these from? They are numbers 29 and 5 in the diagram. I am all ready to start the engine besides these parts!!!

Two years, four months and counting.... But then, i had a shed. Not much is now original, and therefore I have done the "Don't put anything back on until it's brand new (or new looking)" thing that many people have said don't do!!

Do you know when the belt was changed? If not, DO IT NOW!! But seriously, it's not too difficult, read Les' write up here. Read through it first to make sure you have all tools required before starting. My belt was half snapped when I did mine (just in time)!

Read Les' Cambelt replacement tech write up. He suggests using a metal plate with two holes drilled in it, two long m8 bolts and a socket. I used this method and it worked perfectly, with the engine disconnected! see here EDIT: OOps, sorry I thought you were trying to get the pulley off, not the bolt itself. Using a breaker bar, put pressure on it till it bends, then get someone else to tap the bar closer to the socket, worked for me...

I did this last night.... All wires are close on the loom besides the red one which is just a perm live... EDIT: and it's wrong, TOP LEFT should be R/W (red/white)

Check feed to and from this resistor. Bolted to the inner wheel arch liner. Should be able to get to it (just)

Just to chime in - My Alfa Romeo is always bang on accurate (with a GPS). Well at 90mph (on a track) the speedo reads just over 90mph. So it really is too much of a generalisation to say all cars over read by 10%

If you don't mind the loud road hum that the aggressive Insa special tracks give, then I would highly recommend them. Much cheaper, better off road IMO, and far more chunky looking (if thats your thing). However, they do wear quickly.

I'd put my money on the fuel lift pump....

Found the mini pump here Ebay link

My Alfa's tax runs out at the end of February. So my New years resoltuion is to have the 90 finished by then. Although the weather's not helping..... Far too cold....

Probably a '7-day fix it' notice (where: Obviously you have to fix it, then take it to a MOTer and get something signed then back to the police station). Pleed ignorance, not 'oh, I've been caught'

I would say it is the A-frame bushes, as the A-frame controls lateral movement. get under there and get a mate to rock the body from the side (sideways) and look closely at each bush.

I just wanna add that there is such a thing as too tight (IMHO, if it slips when it's tightened to the torque in the book, you should put on a new belt). You might destroy any bearings of pumps/pulleys using that belt, Power steering to name just one.

New belts are cheap, I would suggest swapping in a new one firstly? How are they tensioned on an NA?

Or if your hometown is like my hometown, it's carp for buying anything locally, any Lithium based grease is fine. Thats what LM means on the end of the castrol product.

Excellent well worth a tech artical IMO.... Too late for me though!

From DVLA..... Vehicles that have been rebuilt using a mix of new or used parts In order to retain the original registration mark: * cars and car-derived vans must use: The original unmodified chassis or unaltered bodyshell (i.e. body and chassis as one unit - monocoque); or a new chassis or monocoque bodyshell of the same specification as the original supported by evidence from the dealer or manufacturer (e.g. receipt). And two other major components from the original vehicle - ie suspension (front & back); steering assembly; axles (both); transmission or engine. DVLA Whoever told you that it had to be inspected was wrong... Unless, as it says above, you have had to replace more than just the chassis

IMHO..... Cranked (and lengthened) rear trailing arms are important.. Castor Corrected radius arms are also important as the steering geometry will be wrong, but apparently fitting cast. corr. arms causes problems with the propshaft angles, so wide angle yokes are then needed....? Adjustable panhard rod.... With a 2" lift, it's not needed... doing some calculations on a 2" lift you can see that the axle will move very slighlty to the right (when you lift the truck) in relation to the chassis, however with only a 2" lift, it is so slight as to not worry about it...

Look here too, much cheaper than other places for bracketry.... Esp. the front fuel tank bracket.... YRM Metal Solutions Fuel Tank bracket ~ £20 cheaper than i could find elsewhere Tub to chassis brackets?

Try a new thotle potentiometer? (Throttle pedal). Very easy to change, not sure on price though. But if your TD5's ever been wet in the footwells (Let's face it, do you live in europe?), then I would say the contacts are corroded. I have one for sale, although you don't sound local.....

I'll help if there's any near me! I am in Landie country...... Give us a PM...

'Bout a fiver, I can come and pick them up if you like? In all seriousness, what colour are they? They're normally white right? What tyres?

Wow, excellent, How far down in Zummerset are you?

Invest in a proper trim removal tool... or something like that, most damage is caused by using pliers..