adam300Tdi90

Mark Shelly's reply (after he confirmed it was ok to post publically): Hi Adam, We are still working on the tool and it's coming along rather well. It is actually a four part tool with intricate vacuum and cooling lines which took a total of about 60 CNC milling hours. We are basically finished except for the etching on the front plate to give it a lightly structured embossing. The front plate is in Prague for etching and should be back by the beginning of next week however the forming machine isn't free for another until around the 15th of this month. I do have a couple other slight obstacles at the same time - • This is the first version of the tool. We have good data for our other tool and have done everything possible to make it right. The other tool however took 3 tries before we got it right. We use a soft, flexible and flame resistant material LDPE-FR. This material has a forming shrinkage of between 1.8% and 4% depending on the forming temperature. We built the tool exactly 3% larger than the finished product and hope to regulate the forming temperature with the rate and temperature of the coolant running throughout the tool. If we have to rebuild the tool it will be another 40 or so hours of work. • A second obstacle would be the material itself. This is indeed a special material and has a minimum order of 10 tons to get any decent price -that's about 20,000 Euros. We bought 10 tons for the first covers and finished nearly 12,000 pieces - so it is worth the investment. At the moment however I only have 50 KG as sample material. Depending on how easy the initial set-up is, determines how many covers we can get from the initial run. I figure that we will get between 20 and 50, these would only be for sampling. We will need to test the covers on as many vehicles as possible to determine that they are properly sized. Once they look good I will go ahead and order the material. We have to be careful with large amounts of material as the last couple tons we had in storage soaked up water from the air and I was forced to take them 60 km and pay to have them in an oven for 3 days. So, if everything works out, you will have the first covers by the end of this month - on the other hand, if we have to rework the tooling it could take another month. I'll let you know when we have some info. Thanks for your patience and have a good day. Mark

I have just recieved a response from Mark, so huge apologies for implying his was a non-responsive company. I was simply stating the facts. I am waiting for him to confirm that I can post his response publically. However, he states that is that he is indeed currently tooling up for the different shape (300tdi front mount) filler cover, and to his credit, there are many hurdles that he is managing to overcome, without any compromise on the materials or design. As a potential consumer of this new product I am very grateful that he is developing on new ideas and of course taking the risk in this development. He is a credit to small business.

Get down your local market and buy cheap stuff! I have only ever broken one ratchet, and I was beating the handle hard with a lump hammer! Still a tenner later and armed with knowledge of how far I can push the kit, I restocked and haven't broken anything since. A FULL set of tools (1/4, 3/8 and 1/2) ratchets, extensions, all sockets, torx bits, allen key bits, etc etc all in cost me around £50, and I've rebuilt my landy with them!! I think they are called toolzone! If you curently have loads of extra cash lying around do buy big brand names, but otherwise, I don't see the point. Yes top quality kit is a good investment, but you can break anything if you try hard enough. So why not just buy cheap stuff, and use your kit within what it's designed for.

Emailed twice, . I didn't even ask if they would expand their range. Just simply asked the same question as above. My third email was "Hello?? Money waiting....???"

I have modified my 90 TD5 tub to have the 300tdi fuel filler as well. Does anyone know if the defendoor cover will fit in the front 300tdi fuel recess as well as the TD5 rear mount recess?

I'm currently respraying my 90, but in cellulose. I bought 15 litres of primer and 15 liters of top coat. It is plenty, i only have the roof and wings left to paint and I have most of a 10 litre tin left in both (primer and satin black). Hope this helps, what paint medium are you using? Adam.

Just make sure you and passenger wear seatbelts.

I had 265/75 /16 Insa Special Tracks (not much difference to above I suppose) on mine without any mods (that I was aware of). Lock stops adjusted just so that the rear of the tyre didn't touch the radius arms.

Ball only need replacing if the seal face is rusty and pitted. It will leak otherwise, even with a new seal. A lot, so much that it really does pay to do this if you have the tools? Quite a lot of stripping down, but the tech article is excellent.

Remove rubber cap Undo the five drive member bolts Remove the circlip and shims on the end of the halfshaft. (keep them safe) Remove the drive member. The bit that the splines of the halfshaft are just poking through Fit new gasket to the hub with a bit of Hylomar. Fit new drive member to the hub and half-shaft Tighten 5 bolts re-fit same shims and circlip Put the rubber cap on Done! (Images courtesy of Uncle Les)

Hence why white smoke is sometimes headgasket issues. (cooling fluid seeping into the cylinders)

Same as the re-build kit, but separate..

Very few seats have a a removeable base, however, search for 'Anderson plugs' and you can see that jumping the batteries can be done 'remotely'. This is what I plan to do when fitting RRC seats...

Also, and I know from experience that this seems to be OTT, but do the rear crank oil seal too! I've just put mine together and found that the seal is leaking, took a day to take it apart again to fix the seal...

Here.. Does this really work? Can anyone explain it? The centrifugal energy somehow forces the beads to where they need to be?

Also sometimes caused by lift pump wear.. Mine does exactly the same, and I have bought a new lift pump in preparation. Correct me if I'm wrong and I won't bother replacing the pump??

I thought it was called EP80/90 (mostly known as EP90 though). Get yourself to a farm shop (if they exist near you), I paid a tenner for 5 litres. A top up should be fine, but while you're underneath, it's cheap enough and easy enough to just change it.

PLEASE READ!! This email arrived moments ago! If you haven't already, get your objections in! SECTION 1 OF THE ROAD TRAFFIC REGULATION ACT 1984 PERMANENT TRAFFIC REGULATION ORDER TO CLOSE TO ALL MOTORISED VEHICLES BYWAY 30, LUDGERSHALL AND BYWAYS 32, 34 AND 36, CHUTE I write to advise you that the officer’s report to Councillor. Mr. Dick Tonge, Wiltshire Council’s Cabinet Member for Highways and Transport, regarding the above proposed Traffic Regulation Order (TRO), is now being prepared following responses received during the preliminary and formal consultation and evidence gathered, including photographic evidence. The report being drafted advises Mr. Tonge to approve the officer’s recommendations that a permanent, all-year-round TRO be placed on Byways Open to All Traffic Ludgershall 30 and Chute 32 (Honey Bottom) and that an non-statutory public inquiry should be held to seek the opinion of an independent inspector on whether a similar TRO should be placed on the Chantry Lane section, Byways Open to All Traffic Chute 34 (Chantry Lane) and Chute 36. The reasons for these recommendations are as follows. The benefit to the local community for a TRO on the Honey Bottom byways has been positively established. Honey Bottom is a grass surfaced byway and is considered by the officers to be especially suitable for use on foot or on horseback. Photographic evidence shows that these byways are susceptible to damage by motor vehicles. The proposed TRO will also ensure that walkers, horse-riders and cyclists from Lower Chute will be able to access Collingbourne Woods without the concern of encountering motorised traffic on the Honey Bottom byway. With regard to the Chantry Lane byway and Chute byway 36, damage to the surface of these byways cannot be attributed solely to use by motorised vehicular traffic. Inspection by the officers of Wiltshire Council’s Rights of Way Service on Wednesday 27th January 2010 showed that significant weather damage and water erosion had taken place over the winter while the byways have been closed to use by the public with motor vehicles. Additionally, the safety concerns of the community are based on anecdotal eye witness accounts of use by motor-vehicles prior to the closure of the route to such vehicles by temporary TRO’s, and are not substantiated by arrests and convictions of offenders. As there is no specific statistical evidence of illegal use and confrontation, the holding of a public inquiry would offer an opportunity to debate the issue of safety and obtain the view of an independent Inspector before Mr. Tonge is asked to make his decision. The officers will include the comments you have already made in the report to Mr Tonge, but if you have anything you wish to add before the report is finalised please write to me directly at the address below, by no later than Wednesday 31st March 2010: Mrs Ali Stewart Rights of Way County Hall Bythesea Road Trowbridge Wiltshire BA14 8JN It will not be possible for comments received after Wednesday 31st March 2010 to be included in the report. Yours sincerely

I made a flywheel locking tool using a bit of threaded bar, sharpened to a point (twice actually, I lost the first one). Insert the threaded bar into the wading plug hole and the sharpened point fits onto the flywheel recess. Cheap simple locking tool.....

Would it be cheaper to install a Canine (but to get around RSPCA issues) also install an AC unit. AC unit runs when you stop the car, keeps canine all nice and cool, ready to bite anything which decides to see whats inside.....

News post in Skipton from yesterday...... Skipton Thefts

Ashcroft Transmissions suggest using MTF 94. I have just bought 5litres of MTF94 genuine Land rover oil for ~£25

Hi All, I am looking for someone to help with wiring up my Defender. I 'think' I have most of it right but there are some wires which don't have anywhere to go and some terminals which have no wires. I thought it would 'all come together' but now I'm confused. Has anyone got pics of the loom in place? Is there anyone local who wouldn't mind me looking under their bonnet? I don't have EGR fitted so it should be easy. Basically, I don't think I have the alternator or the starter motor wired correctly, and which one is the stop solenoid wire? There are thee wires on the front left hand side (when looking from the front) one is a female bullet type connection (I've got that one right). One is for the stop solenoid, (not sure which) and one is for.....? Yours truly confused...

Why were they sued? Was it an unoriginal idea?

Thanks!!