il-bob

Is there a replacement PSC steering pump that fits a GEMS 4.6 V8 without modification? Current steering pump went bust and thought of replacing with a higher pressure pump as got a hydraulic RAM assist. thanks, bob

I got some rod ends from bulletproofsteering to fit on drop arm end. Now need to widen the tre hole on drop arm to 19mm, and job done

There's a td5 powered RR for sale on maltapark. Sorry but can't post link

Yes tried without snorkel but still dies with maf plugged in

Yes tried without snorkel but still doesn't dies with maf plugged in

I had the OBD2 thing which I'll try tonight. Any will try to give the sensor a good clean

Hello, Yesterday I disconnected the maf sensor on the 4.6 GEMS to install a snorkel. Reconnected everything and for some odd reason, when starting it dies after a few seconds. If i disconnect the maf plug, engine will stay on. But if I switch off and re-connect the maf plug, it starts and dies soon after. The ecu light does not come on. I tried another used maf sensor but still the same. Any idea what might be the problem or what I need to check? These is voltage at the plug. Will it go to limp mode if I drive with the maf disconnected? Thanks, Rob

Ok, read the advert which says it all

What did these Range Rovers have different then normal RRs? Rob

My Disco is on 35s Silverstone, actually, more 34ish when measured. You feed at least a 3" lift. Mine sits on a 2" body lift and 1" suspension lift. I find it quite stable as it is. You also need to trim the fenders heavily. If you're putting on the 80 series axle, you'd need not to worry on offset. But if you stick with LR axles, you need some good offset wheels. bob

sensor came with gauge, so shouldn't be. Am I right in saying that the oil cooler must be earthed, and the sensor reduces resistance proportional to the temperature?

Hello, I've placed the auto gearbox oil cooler on the back of the truck and connected an oil temperature gauge. Gauge is not reading at all. I've earthed the oil cooler to make sure there's good contact. If I earth the switch wire, the gauge goes to full. What might be wrong? thanks, Bob

The diagram I uploaded before is wrong. The box on top is the radiator. The electric pump will be placed in between the bottom of the rad and the water pump. The thermostat will be removed to have constant flow. Now I figured out I'll place the thermostatic switches on the bottom hose in between the rad and the electric water pump with a housing similar to the one Zim posted bob

That's a real axle. Well done!!

From what I got from this post bu Team Idris, more flow will be better... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Some interesting stuff on the other thread there. The faster the water flow the higher the Reynolds number, so less boundary layer and better water to metal heat transfer. But also, watts = mass-flow-rate * heat-capacity-fluid * temp difference. If the watts are fixed and the mass flow rate doubled, the temp difference halves. So 100 over 90 deg.c becomes 100 over 95. (assuming engine makes 100 deg.c and rad exits 90 deg.c). 95 is further from the ambient cooling air than 90, so the rad works better. So you get a double helping from a faster water flow. But the back pressure is the square of the velocity, so twice the flow could take a lot more shaft power? Sure is a tricky one -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- See question 7 on this link from Craig Davis website...http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electric_Water_Pumps__EWP-content.aspx They put in two Elec WP inline for better cooling I tested flow on a switched off EWP and water passes through the pump normally. I got the idea from some guys here in Malta who run this setup, and had no issues with cooling even in Croatia.