dantastic
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Posts posted by dantastic
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I've also ordered a 200A relay to switch it all in. I know it's a bit overkill but the 200A was cheaper than the 120A so.......
I was thinking a timer button would be ideal for this. So press the button to switch in the relay for 5 min. Anyone seen any of them about?
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Do you need to tear the heater box apart? Looking at the images don't you have enough access without? You just need to cut the rectangular holes each side don't you?
Or am I missing something here?
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Thanks for the photos TSD, any other 'lessons learned' or anything you would have done different in hindsight?
I believe the heater is a 3 section heater, how did you wire it? all in one unit with one relay?
While having the unit out, did you have a look at the fan motor at all? I recon the motor is really the weakest link in the heating system (once the engine is heated up).
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I really have to do this too.
Just been on the 'bay and I have the same unit on order.
The brackets, how did you make them?
Would you be interested in selling a set ?
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Well, the snorkel is also to get air from higer up (with less dust) in a desert environment. Considering it's built for overlanding I recon the snorkel is definately warranted.
A 300, sure won't break any speed records but that camper won't weigh over 3.5 ton anyway so it should well be able to cope.
Diff guard is just sound advice if you are going to venture rover axles off the tarmac.
An extra roof tent looks like a good option to sleep a few extra people. (or sleep a bit cooler in hot environments)
Can't really see any problems there to be honest.
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They probably won't require trimming but they will require drilling holes in the sides so you can still never take them off.......
I'm in a similar situation running 35's on mine and I'm thinking old conveyor belt - but that is not really the standard look you are going for though...
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Bargain 6x6 camper:
I really like that!
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A trolley jack and a high lift is the ideal combination. Then you can easily change shocks quickly.
If the shocks have been on for a while you are likely to have to take the turret off as well. It is pretty common to snap at least one turret ring bolt. So it's a good idea to have a frest set of turret rings at hand.
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Actually, I have the Gas bilsteins and not that exact model - sorry!
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I've been running the bilstens for a year and a half now. Great shock for the road, very good handling. Too stiff (and short) for offroad.
Don't get their steering damper tough - it's a gas damper and I found it was impossible to live with.
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I didn't realize you could override the immobilizer without accessing the OBD port. Is there a way of disabling the ability to disable the immobilizer?
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Having the standard alarm fitted to my 110 it looks like 3 options here for me.
1) Add a second set of horns on a separately fused circuit. To guarantee the sound and hopefully this will be deterrent enough when opening the doors.
2) Snip the OBD port cable. You know what - Haven't used it in 3 years - if I need to use it I can figure out then how to get it back together.....
3) Hammer a dent to every panel not dented already!
Hopefully this will make it awkward enough for them to walk away from it.
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Same here. Bought a new cap off of ebay the other day. Hopefully it will fix it.
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A mate of mine never throws away a thing without trying to sell it on ebay first. You know what, most carp actually sells. If someone is prepared to buy it then who am I to complain really. I wouldn't but that is my choice.
We're all having a good laugh but it's really at the expense of any eventual buyer, not the sellers if they actually manage to sell....
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To you or to bilstein?
To me.
They were very friendly until Bilsten decided not to replace the unit. After that they were down right nasty.
Funny the warranty doesn't cover off road use as that was their explanation for their wide tolerances. Acceptable for off road use I think was what they said.
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I bought bilstens a while back from Rimmer bros. One was faulty and was sent back. After about 3 months of trying to get them to accept the return I simply gave up. Bilsten have pretty HUGE tolerances within which they consider a shock to be acceptable. Rimmer bros also did what they could to be as awkward and arrogant as possible.
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Not an ebay addy but still... why!? why!?
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Thanks Jake!
It's great to hear from someone who has actually used both. That's great news
even better as its the cheaper one -
Here they are.
Got them from Gwyn Lewis.
As you can see, as opposed to most beadlocks you've ever seen these don't slot into the rim, they sit on top.
I asked Gwyn about it and he said it allows the bolts to be further out and will ake it a lot easier to center the tyre on the rim.
Gwyn generally know's his **** so I'll take his word for it
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Dilema dilema dilema
I won't need the extra top end of the Termal Arc and the Parweld has a small edge when it comes to duty cycle.
Either would seem like a sound pick anyway so I will see which one I can get a better deal on. Looks like the Parweld at the moment.
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What did you end up going with?
I'm doing the same research at the moment and I've independently narrowed it down to the same ones myself. Plus a Termal Arc 175SE that seems like good piece of kit too.
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The stuff is still in the post. Will have to have a look when it gets here.
Even at that though, don't think it matters for what I do anyway, especially as I'm also adding more cage to the roll cage at the mo. Too many trees about
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I'll make sure to take some pics
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Gwyn Lewis has me sorted
Defender PTC Heater Upgrade
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Price is definitely a huge factor with this mod. The element itself is 20 delivered. Relay another 15. All in depending on how I fare out with brackets this will be reasonably cheap.
I spend the first 20 min each morning sitting in traffic with the engine just ticking over. This will be a huge improvement for me
Keep the pics coming!