dantastic
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Posts posted by dantastic
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I'm in Ireland. Stations wagons are rare over here so I will most likely have to travel over to the UK no matter what. Ideally I was hoping to go over a weekend or so and load the trailer with bits.
I'd probably price bits first which need minimal amount of work done. If that doesn't work out I'll consider something which needs more work.
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£1k is probably a bit optimistic. That's probably what I would be spending on doors alone by the looks of things. I've a HCPU so the cat flap is not an option.
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I'm toying with the idea of converting my 110 pickup to a station wagon. I have had it for years and all the important bits are in very good condition so rather than selling and buying a station wagon I'm pondering if converting what I have might be an idea. (I'd also like a project!)
I will need
* roof & headlining
* rear door
* tub
* rear sides
* b pillars
* c pillars
* 2nd row floor
* 2nd row doors
* seats & seat belts
I'm probably missing a few brackets in the above but that's the bulk of panels I need anyway. Without much insight I'm looking at ebay for prices but I don't know. If approaching a breakers, what would be reasonable to expect to pay for the above. Looking for bits in good condition, not worth doing this kind of job including paint with knackered doors.
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That's a man with a plan right there!
What's the range of a milk float anyway? Could this be an actual idea? (nevermind his execution with a botched caravan stacked on pallets)
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MC = Master Cylinder.
D'oh!
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I have had a look at the servo itself. It looks OK but I will have a closer look. Visual inspection only or would something like soapy water help?
There's no air in the system. I have power bled it several times and I'm confident I've done it right.
No play in wheel bearings.
Have you clamped the flexi's off to check MC?
Sorry, what is MC? And how do I do that?
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I have a 2002 110. I have owned it for 7 years now.
The brakes have always been spongy. If you press harder, there is loads of braking power there. Distributed evenly over the wheels. But you have to press pretty hard!
The first thing I did after having bought the truck was replace the master cylinder with a brand new Lucas one. After power bleeding with fresh fluid the brakes were still spongy so I sent the master cylinder back and got a replacement. Same story so I just left that on.
Next I'm thinking is something to do with the brake servo.
If I just hold my foot on the brake pedal as I start the car I can feel the brake pedal being sucked down slightly.
If I give the pedal a pump and then keep the brake pedal depressed when I start the engine the pedal is not going down any further.
So I'm thinking something with the servo system. Vacuum leak or something along those lines.
But how do I check? I'm not sure how much to expect the vacuum pump to be sucking?
Are there any common failures in around this?
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Really sorry, and a bit annoyed to hear that Jason. I feel a bit guilty now for dropping the group buy suggestion
I was part of an earlier LED group buy. Masterfully executed so I merely hoped there would be another one. But I can see why you wouldn't.
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Do I smell another group buy by any chance?
Been thinking about these too, LEDs have gotten a lot better and cheaper lately. I think the truckLites look pretty good. Not a huge fan of the aestetics of the more funky ones. They look too knob-y for my liking.
Will follow this thread to see where it ends up.
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This is brilliant info!
Thank you very much!
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I'm looking for the electric connector connecting to the fuel pump on a TD5. It's for a Defender 110.
The connector is not in microcat and I think it's a BMW connector.
any ideas?
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Still looking for bits. I haven't been able to find a ducting connector in galvanize locally. Same with good looking power cable. Was able to get trailer core to use for the control panel.
The wiring is pretty well detailed in the manual. This one here, p34
I use the 801 controller, mainly because it has diagnostics if it would ever be needed.
I'll take some piccies when I wire it up anyway but let me know if you have any questions. I think the only thing the docs really stress is to make sure the unit is fused as otherwise you fry the electrics if you accidentally reverse the polarity. 20A for the Eberspacher 5A for the controller.
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I have been unable to find a handy box with the dimensions I was initially looking for so I've had to do with something a bit smaller. An old ammo box I had sitting around. As you can see here I had to take off the outlet cowl in order to make it fit. All that is is a funnel and it's not particularly well sealed anyway so not a big loss considering the box is so small anyway.
First of all do some measuring!
Then some drilling
perfect fit!
It is pretty snug and a bit tricky to get in and out but it's all good
And here's the result of today's work
The plan now is to get a 100mm ducting connector in metal and then use 100mm aluminum ducting. The standard stuff used is part made of paper so not a good idea for what I will be using it for. I also like the idea of 100mm as I had to take the cowl off and having a pretty large opening means less restriction. I have been around to all local shops that are open on a Sunday but I was only able to find 100mm connectors in plastic so I will keep trying during the week or maybe have a look online.
This is all I've time for right now. Hopefully I will get a chance to do a bit more soon enough.
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Here is a similar product. You can see a bit better how they are dealing with the exhaust. They have a clear separation into 2 compartments as well. The red box on top is nice but this is probably a more realistic solution.
http://www.dieselheat.com.au/products/rv-heaters/webasto-portable-heater
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I had a similar idea. I'm going ti mount the control panel and the hot air vent on a piece of plexi I can slot in to the back sliding window. That should be fine then for moving around etc.
There are thermostats in some of the control panels, not sure if not all. Check what applies to your controller here http://www.eberspacher.com/download-centre/technical-documents/
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I'm still busy trying to find a suitable metal box for this build. Not just a box to fit the heater but something I can get a matching fuel tank for.
My initial plan was to have the exhaust silencer inside the box for that nice and compact 'feel' but I don't think that's possible (or a good idea) I'm afraid I will overheat the eberspacher if I keep those bits in the box as well.
This is definately happening, just a bit slowly
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The control unit is sitting over the air intake, under the cover. That having been said, will probably want to weather protect the thing anyway.
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The eberspachers work more effectively if recirculating air rather than bringing in fresh air the whole time, so you may also want to route the air intake (heating air not combustion air) into the cab as well. That said the cab is quite a small space so you probably don't need maximum efficiency.
Yes, I thought about that but both the cab and tent would be small enough so should not require a huge amount to enegrgy to heat. I would prefer fresh air but it won't be a bad idea to leave the fresh air intake exposed so I could plug in a duct to recirculate air as well.
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Thanks for that Si, I think the fittings in the first link will be useful.
I have been thinking more about it and I don't want the box itself in the cab. It doesn't make sense if I can keep it outside where I don't have to worry about diesel and exhaust.
The rear sliding window on a truck cab can be locked open in fixed positions. The plan is to cut a piece of plexi glass and use as an insert that can be locked into place. I can fit the hot air vent and also the control panel to the plexi. This means I won't have to do any mad refabrication to my bulkhead and I also have a handy panel to slide inside the tent. A much more usable system.
I might still use a connector like the above to have a permanently fitted exhaust system in the back tub. I would prefer to lead the exhaust fumes out away from the stuff back there.
Next stop, army surplus to check what size ammo boxes they have
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Actually, am I better off mounting the box in the tub and just route the hot air into the cab. Then I wouldn't be too worried about the diesel smell either.
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The plan was to have a small integrated fuel tank so I'm not looking for fuel fittings. It's mainly the exhaust I'm worried about.
I don't know how hot it gets either. I'll google some vacuum hose fittings, hopefully they are suitable.
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I have an Eberspacher D2 sitting around. I think (hope) it works!
Anyway, I want to build a tent heater. Something like this:
But I also want to be able to use it in the cab of my Defender (truck cab).
Doing one or the other is simple enough but coming up with a design which will work as both is a bit more tricky. Essentially, any ideas how I can route the diesel intake and exhaust from the red box above? It needs to be easy to plug in and out of the truck.
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So that's neither a yes or a no but rather - it's fine. Good enough I suppose
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I'm sorry if this has been covered already but I have one of the 41.5" LED light bars from one of the group buys. I was wondering about the legality of it out on the continent? Are they legal or are they even allowed to be fitted to the vehicle?
pickup to station wagon parts cost
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Yea, might not be such a great idea after all. Buying individual bits is very expensive and a complete she'll in good enough condition is just as expensive.
I'll keep the Hicap I think.