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dantastic

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Posts posted by dantastic

  1. I am a iPhone programmer and I actually work on a GPS application. Nothing to do with what we discuss here so I will leave that out of it.

    First of all, Satnav - there are a couple on the market. I personally use Navigon. It uses Garmin maps. I have had it for many years since it was pretty much the only one available on the appstore. It cost like €60 or so which is quite a lot but I have found it very very good.

    I don't currently use any GPS app which can load maps so I can't comment on that one.

    But the point of this contribution, working with smartphones and tablets I can offer some insight.

    The newer devices are much better (no big surprise really).

    iOS devices are significantly more accurate than Androids. This is based on a pretty large dataset but in essence, only the highest spec Android devices have any decent GPS accuracy.

    Only the 3G models of iPad have GPS hardware.

    The GPS is actually pretty good considering. Mounting is important as a car is a very hostile environment to a GPS. If the phone can see the sky it will have much better accuracy than if it's hidden somewhere in the dash.

    Developers can get highly accurate information from the GPS but then it will consume a lot of battery. This is where there is always going to be a trade-off in frequency of location updates and conserving battery life.

    From a pure hardware point of view I will recommend an iOS device every time. Especially for location services.

    The next thing is maps and this is where it gets tricky. The Apple platform is not as rampant with piracy as the Android platform is. This means iOS apps only import maps that are purchased or where the content rights are respected. There are less scrupulous developers who make apps for Android who don't have to follow the strict rules of the Apple appstore. This is where some people may see the benefit in some Android apps which can just import anything from anywhere. I don't think it's fair to call an app carp because it won't import pirated maps.

    One last thing. Make sure to have a high power USB socket in your car and have your device connected while using the GPS. The app knows you are plugged in and some apps enable higher accuracy when connected.

  2. I have a standard cubby box with the open square compartment. (TD5) I have been looking to get a cup holder but I don't want the insert as I already keep some good carp there. So I have been looking at the bay for some after market I can bolt on to the front of the cubby box but all I've seen have just been too flimsy.

    How have you solved the cup holder problem without one of those plastic inserts?

  3. Ok so to add to this, this wasn't in my Defender it was in a shiny car. The car has since been repaired, nevermind any perceived devaluation due to a tip or anything but actually repaired and a panel resprayed etc. The yob running in to me initially claimed the incident never even happened. I'm more Mildly miffed off than anything and I'm not willing to let this go. If they would handled this differently I would have been a good sport about it but the arrogance just cannot be rewarded.

  4. A while back we were over the border to the UK and we were in a bit of a tip. No personal injuries but the car got a couple of hundred worth of damage. A fella in a company van was going much faster than he was able for. This would be so small I didn't want to involve my insurance, they will load up my premium for next year (In Ireland anyway). As the other party was so incredibly obviously in the wrong I contacted his unsurance directly and through various hoops I was having to deal with a solicitors crowd who do the insurance for this company.

    Anyway, after months of just being fobbed off I need to step up my game. Not being from the UK I'm not familiar with the system. There seems to be small claims solicitors you can get for this kind of stuff? Any recommendations? I assume this is an expense I can load their insurance with? Would they be interested in something just worth a couple of 100?

  5. I was tracking every drop of dielsel put in for about 6 years until I lost the spreadsheet. (TD5)

    I tried the cheap fuel and it was expensive in the long run. Consumption up and power down.

    Premium is by far the best value for money. I don't have access to premium where I live but I get it whenever I can and it makes a big difference. Data can't lie!

    The diesel you buy on the continent is also much better for the TD5. Even the cheaper stuff and you can expect a 2-3mpg increase.

    A few years back I was getting 33.5mpg out of a fully loaded 110 running on Shell premium going through Italy. At the time I was getting about 26mpg here at home.

  6. This is important stuff. I started taking better care of myself when the hearing stared going. I use a high quality set of active ear muffs. They block out all dangerous noise but still allow you to hear everything around you. Expensive but comfortable and you end up keeping them on the whole time.

    With glasses I haven't been as lucky yet. I try to use them but for whatever reason they keep impair my vision and I can't see properly through them. I have tried expensive lab goggles (Bolle) but they are no better. Can anyone recommend some goggles you can actually see through?

  7. I ended up changing the steering arm. Being a bit of a tosser I went for the OEM manufacturer arm from Paddocks. (I was ordering other stuff too from them at the same time...)

    And the steering wheel is now pointing 90 degrees to the left. The splines are obviously not lined up the same as the original arm.

    I am in two minds about whether I should send the steering arm back or if I should adjust the steering rod to straighten the steering wheel. Both pigs of jobs.

    Britpart strikes again. I should have known better. I was told not to... damn...

  8. Sorry if this has been asked already but I'm having difficulty figuring out what I should do here.

    I got an advisory on worn steering drop arm ball joint. I want to sort it out. The part number is RBG000010

    Paddock list 2 versions

    RBG000010 Quality aftermarket ~£5

    RBG000010G OEM Manufacturer ~£20

    LRDirect have a lot more options ranging from All Makes ~£5 to Genuine LR ~£75.

    Including two different Britpart offerings, one Britpart branded and one 'OEM branded'. Is there a difference between the two???

    This is the kind of component you

    a) Want to be able to fully trust.

    b) Only want to change once.

    So I'm a bit confused what to do. I didn't put this in the Defender forum as this is more of a questions to do with these OEM manufacturers in general and not necessarily only to do with this part. (But I do need help picking the right version of this part!)

    thanks!

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