dantastic
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Posts posted by dantastic
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Interesting front end and an almost circular hoop on the cage!
Too good to be in this thread I think. See nothing wrong with it. Just missing winches and it's ready to go.
Can't go wrong with it at 1300
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I just use a regular ratchet strap. That way you can tighten it properly and you lift absolutely minimum height required. Plus, a ratchet strap can serve as an extra pair of hands so just throw one in your toolkit
Bottle jacks are fine if you are on flat and hard ground but a hi lift will always work.
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They should have a hall of fame of failed ****parts. Everything from crashes due to seized bearings to fitting photos of completely misaligned holes.
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This bloke must've taken his lead from Nige with his metal fetish lol: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/land-rover-Defender-disco-range-rover-classic-bolt-on-diff-pan-conversion-/161038672876?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item257ea723ec
John
Looks like a pretty good piece of kit hadn't it been for the number of bolts. Half would have been overkill.
He also has a Salisbury diff pan - I bought a similar one from the US a while back and paid a lot more.
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It could be worth looking in to having the bike shipped. Might be cheaper than you think...
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Sean,
I fitted several pattern pumps before I bought a VDO pump from island4x4 - was a few years ago now tho.
The pattern pumps had various different faults and all had to go back and if I was doing it again - considering how dirty job it is - I wouldn't even consider any of the pattern pumps.
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I don't think ever anyone will ever (genuinly) be on the fence as to buy a brand new car or rebuild one from scratch. Plenty of people may ponder it but when wallets are to be opened I don't think there's ever any contest one way or the other.
The kind of person who'd rebuild one from scratch wouldn't but buy a brand new one and vice versa.
I'd love to build one myself
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Good stuff Sean!
That was the one. A 15A fuse under the seat. Didn't think stuff like the alarm was fused there but there you go.
Thanks!
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Recently a wire for a rear indicator shafered and shorted the indicator and while troubleshooting also the hazard fuses.
Wire fixed and fuses replaced.
Since this happened the indicators are no longer flashing when arming or disarming the alarm. Wasn't too pushed about that...
Now there is a pretty loud beep when disarming the alarm. I have checked the 2 passenger compartment fuses. Where else can I check? I'm pretty sure there is another fuse gone and that's what the alarm is complaining about.
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The MAF sensor reading is too low. It should be between 55-59 at tick over. Check in 5th gear full blast as well, you're probably not getting more than 350 - should be around the 450 mark.
Unplug it and take it for a spin and see if it's any better.
Start by cleaning it by spraying brake cleaner on it. Failing to get a reading over 55 at idle buy a new Land Rover branded unit. Don't waste your time on the ebay copies.
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Glad to hear you're a bad influence as always Mat
Still undecided tho
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Not to worry Mat, I've Homer now, no more dozering
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Will have to think about this a bit more I think.... They are pretty pricey....
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I think that was about wht I was thinking alright.
I will get a remap at some point just that you should probably get the intercooler before the remap so that can be taken into consideration when the truck is mapped. Otherwise you'd have to have it mapped twice.
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Sorry if this has been answered before but here it goes.
I have removed the EGR, cat and center box already. Looking for more upgrades.
Intercooler seems to be the next thing on the list but is it worth it? what type of performance does it provide?
I only have a standard turbo and I don't have a remap.
This may be a silly question but, do you get what you pay for or will cheap and cheerful do?
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I have all the bits now almost ready to have a look at this project.
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I had to phone the AA 2 years ago out in France. I figured I'd just give them the GPS coordinates. But they couldn't do anything with them. Even asked the woman on the phone to stick the numbers into google maps and it would show her. Nope, she didn't have access to the internet on her computer.
I ended up having to give pretty shoddy instructions how to get to me, this was not an off road situation or anything! I still had to wait for the recovery truck at a larger road about a km trek away because they couldn't find me otherwise. I though it was an absolute disaster to be honest!
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Have a look at tig gloves. Last I was buying it looked like they were mere dexterous gloves.
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As it would happen SWMBO happen to have a 3d printer at work (one of the fancier models). It's not "hers" but she recons she can get the brackets printed if I can get a cad drawing - sweet! (Knew she was a keeper
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I have got the PTC heater now and I had a quick look at it over the weekend.
Question around the brackets - I don't have access to a milling machine so I'm wondering are they really needed. It's obviously the more elegant solution but...
The side with the cabling has a rubber seal around it and if you were _really_ careful you could cut a very exact hole in the heater box so it would seal properly on that side. The problem then is the other side. I'm sure I could ghetto-fab something there to cover the hole
How hot does it get? can I use silicon to seal?
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I'm still waiting for the bits to arrive in the post. But again as the weather has improved I'm not too pushed wither.
I'm also holding off until the drawings are perfected - and I'm hoping someone will start mass produciton of the brackets
Simon again pointed out why a VSR probably isn't the right tool for the job. Same reason you don't run VSRs on your winch circuit.
I'm going to wire mine up to the ignition straight with a timer relay. But I should mention I also run a second battery separated by a voltage sensing relay so even if the first circuit would run too low the starter battery will be separated from the main circuit and I would be able to start the car regardless. (Super handy when doing a lot of winching).
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Would it not be ideal to keep the flap (disconnected obviously) and cut a hole for the heater element. I looks ideal to seal the gaps.
And I agree, VSRs have their place but this is not one of them. My thinking with the timer is the same as a snooze button really, you get another 5 minutes - and that's all you need.
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Ordered one of the timer relays with on and off and light. Can wire up a momentary on-off-on button that will keep current to the relay for 5 minutes and then stop. But I can also switch it off manually.
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The "Pass the Bucket" 4x4 For Sale on Ebay Thread
in International Forum
Posted
Geoff???