dantastic
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Posts posted by dantastic
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There we go.
The box it came in was freaking huge!
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The TMax is advertised with 45A draw so it must come with an internal relay, there is no way they would run 45A through the switch!
I have got hold of a tank from an Audi A8, 5.8L 16bar. I think it should be just about right for my needs.
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Hope this helps
The relay jobby you have looks like it's for a 230v system rather than a 12v one. Do the 230v relays work on 12v or is that in fact a 12v relay?
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Fantastic! That was exactly what I had in mind!
Thank you, confident now.
Out of curiosity, where did you get the 2l tank from? I haven't seen any handy ones on ebay or anywhere else...
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I use a check valve and unloader circuit which also switches it in and out at set pressures. I binned the standard hoses and tyre inflator and use proper workshop stuff instead
This was exactly my thinking. Was thinking might even add a 1-2l tank as just a bit of buffer to prevent the thing from just starting-stopping-starting-stopping. Or how do you find it? What pressures did you use for the pressure switch?
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Heat would be expected alright.
Thanks guys. Looks like it's a winner.
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I'm in the market for a new compressor to pump tyres. After googling a good bit it looks like the TMax 160l compressor is cheap and, at least on paper, quite good.
Have anyone got one of these? How long have you had it?? I'm seriously concerned as it is being distributed by Britpart and I have never had any luck with their longevity.
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/tmax-compressor-160lpm-ba2663-p-3923.html
I have read reviews saying the pressure meter isn't accurate. I'm OK with that as I will modify it to take a normally closed tyre inflator.
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Been looking in to this as well recently. My conclusion was that most commercially available solutions are pretty pointless.
They wrap a chain around the A-bar and just drive off. The wheel clamp will just fall off before the first intersection.
A big mean security post seems to be the only genuine deterrent I have come across.
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Looks good Rick. I might do something similar.
Thanks for the pic, always helps
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I can tell you a hi lift is a lot safer than a bottle jack out on soft and uneven ground...............
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Do you mean use the galvanised bump stop as lifting point???
I don't think I'd do that!
That's a non runner on safety grounds anyway, definitely!
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I have a bottle jack as well but it require hard flat ground. I'd really want to figure out how to use the hi lift as well though.
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I have a hi lift jack, with the Land Rover attachment. Works great on the front bumper but it won't reach the holes at the back. Obviously the HCPU tup extends a bit further back than the crossmember. So how is it done? Will some other hi lift attachment work?
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Usually referred to a Offside & Nearside, saves any confusion that way.
Is offside and nearside not also in relation to which side of the road you drive on?
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Perfect, thank you.
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The 110 have handed springs and the longer spring up front should be on the drivers side.
What is this though, is it the right hand side or the left hand side or does it follow the driver??
The above statement is it with a rhd or lhd in mind or is it always true to account for the weight of the driver?
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Steve might have the solution I think. Adding a bit of a lip to lower the seal might do the trick.
Like you say, the door looks to be right!
Lol, why do we love these faulty things!
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Yea, the hinges aren't straight, have quite a lot of angle in them. The top ones also have holes for the mirrors so you can't actually get them wrong.
Top one does look a bit crooked. I have tried loosen and refixing, it is where it wants to be......
It will need a bit more than just bending, it needs to come up but I just don't know how.
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Ok, photos.
When I first fitted the new hinges the crease along the side did line up with the door but the door has dropped a bit. I don't actually think there is any adjustment at all in the door hinges. They will sit where they want to sit. Looking at some of the pics from the outside it looks like just the back of the door needs to come up just a very small bit. But if you look from the inside there is just too much of a gap. The top of the door ends before the rubber seal starts.
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Well, this might be awkward now. The doors are original as far as I know. The roof however, is not.
The roof and the cab back panel are from a Puma, mine is a TD5. If the back panel was a smidgen taller it would explain things.
I didn't even consider this.
Could someone with a truck cab measure the distance from the top of the tub to the bottom of the roof? So the measurement would include the seals etc.
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I see what you are saying.
Is the roof attached correctly. I don't know. Initial tough is, of course it's bloody attached correctly!
But thinking about it I'm not sure. I think it is, it looks right. I measured the height from the top of the tub to the roof and it was the same both sides. Can't remember what it was exactly but it was the same anyway.How much of a job is it to loosen all the bolts holding the bulkhead in place?
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I will have to take a few photos later.
So the bulkhead is not that easy to move. Not even with a hydraulic jack??
The odd things is, all gaps look even and correct, except for the top of the door.
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At the top of my doors there's a pretty massive gap. Bit worse on the drivers side. I am trying to fix it so the doors close properly, I know deep in my heart it can be done, regardless of what countless people all over the internet says!
The problem I have is the gap between the top of the door and the roof is too big. It looks like the door should sit higher up in the door frame. One of the most commonly suggested fixes is to bend the top of the door but that won't actually do much in my case. The door doesn't need to come in, it needs to come up.
With that in mind the most obvious fix would be to change the hinges. Which I did yesterday and it made absolutely no difference.
Whilst changing the hinges I also tried adjusting them. This adjustment-ability is merely an illusion though, there is no adjustment in the hinges. You can add or remove shims but you can't really adjust anything.
So the only thing I can think of next is to adjust the door frame itself. Looking at it it looks like maybe the back of the door is sitting a touch lower than the front of the door. I'm thinking if I push the top of the bulkhead forward a bit this would bring the back of the door up. I'm thinking a bottle jack and a few planks.
Am I on the right direction here or what should I look at adjusting next?
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iPhones use a range of different technologies to hone in on the right location. It uses Cell towers, wifi, GPS, GLONASS, Bluetooth and Motion sensor. The latter two for indoor navigation (Indoor Positioning System).
The iPhone have proper GPS hardware and does not require a phone signal.
T-Max Compressor - Any good?
in International Forum
Posted
I need something very portable to use between 4 cars so I am going to do something along the lines of this