Sabre

Should I apply a thin smear of high melting point grease on the splines of the spigot shaft before installing the engine ? I have been advised not to, but I cannot imagine those splines taking the drive from the clutch plate bone dry

If it's a Tdi, the metal pipes can chaff through in the brackets that hold the pipes in place. I fitted two pieces of rubber pipe around the metal pipes (1 inch each) and then fastened the pipes to the bracket with a few zip-ties

If they're not in your way, keep them. Someone, somewhere will need, and appreciate, them when the need arises

Western, I inspected each bolt with a magnifying glass, just now, and they still look brand new. I have no doubt that they can be re-used. But, thanks for the offer 👍

Rollers are perfect, no marks, pit marks, nothing. I did buy new brass slides though.

Thanks Snagger. As I said, they are available over here, but only in kit form. Our monetary unit currently exchanges at 22 : 1BP. And I would then need 8 kits 😪

I see that both the LR workshop manual and Haynes manual advises that the Cam follower guide bolts need to be renewed. I cannot see the reason for this. The bolts get torqued to 17Nm only Any advice from members of this forum as to the risk of using the old bolts ? I can't buy them loose; they only come with a cam follower kit. Thanks in advance

That's my thought as well. I took the pump off when the engine was at TDC, when I now installed it again, I turned the engine to TDC, and the slot in the FIP aligned. So I installed the timing belt in that position.

Unfortunately the pump was out, pulley removed I had a look at the videos, and apparently it is only the 200Tdi that has a shaft locking bolt, not the 300Tdi Anyway, I have installed the pump, lined up the hole, and have fitted the timing belt. Should see in about 2 weeks if I'm let off the hook (pulley 😳) Thanks guys

Thank you, will check 👍

I have made a bracket that sits on top of the block, and fastens with 4 head bolts. the underside of the bracket has rubber strips I will look at covering the rest of the block to be safe, thanks for the heads-up

Thanks will look, appreciated

Thanks Dave, good tip ! I think I will install the engine first, then the head. The rear lifting bracket is fitted to the one head bolt

Thank you, appreciated

When I disassembled my 300Tdi engine, I also loosened the FIP shaft bolt, not knowing that said bolt could be left as is. Once the pump is installed, can I insert the locking pin into the timing slot, and tighten that bolt ? How much should I torque it to ? Thanks in advance

I have overhauled my 300 Tdi, and it now sits on my workbench in a semi completion state. I have not refitted the head Should I fit the head, torque it up, and install the motor ? If so, that means that one of the head bolts will have to be left loose in order to fit the lifting bracket. Will it be OK to just torque that bolt up after installation ? My original plan was to fit the motor sans head, to not only have a lighter load to handle, but also to have easier access to the top bell housing bolts. If I follow this road, will I be able to get the rear head bolts inserted into the head ? Advice please

When my Tdi had 150k km on the clock, I removed the swivels, cleaned them out, and because I could not get the new type of grease, decided to make my own. I took CV-joint grease, and mixed it 50/50 with 80/90 gear oil. After thoroughly mixing the two, I packed the CV, and filled the housing about 50 % with my grease/oil. Since then, I have never opened the swivel housings, and have no issues with swivels/CVs. The car stands on 392k km

This reminds me of a friend who brought his V8 D1 to me on a Saturday morning, to "quickly" change a leaking Welsh plug Well, six weeks later we started the fully overhauled engine.....

Hi John, you can get permission to cross the building boundary, but it is a schlep. I have just gone through the process in Mossel bay I am staying in Sasolburg (that is where my service pit is)

"As for your pit..... bah, humbug! That is on the cards for me, but I believe the Monkeypality takes a dim view of such things. How is yours built? Bricks or a drop in prefab arrangement?" Dug trench in the ground and built with bricks. Did it many years ago

I have a suspicion that the spider was only fitted to the diesel models ? The more knowledgeable folks here can confirm

I don't think you will be able to lift it at the balance point, through the gear shift stick, although that is described as such in the Haynes manual I have removed a few D1 gearbox/trfr box assemblies from D1s, but I do it all from the bottom. I have a service pit with a trolley on rails that lifts, and moves the assembly into position

Look at where the mounting points to cross member on the LT230 are. That is where the fore and aft balance is

Thanks Western, appreciated

I can get a set of original coil springs and shock absorbers from a 110 pick-up Could these be a straight swop for the coils and dampers on my Tdi D1 ?