The Badger

Im gonna take it off and do some measuring to compare.

Some images

The clutch started to slip, so gotten it all out and the flywheel is pretty badly fractured in a few places and the the clutch cover plate, friction plate was cracked all the way across. Got a new clutch but what Flywheel to use. M&D say their FlyWheel is modified, but that is only to used the now defunct 250mm clutch they used to sell. So any advice on what FlyWheel to fit? And a thanks in advance to helping fill my head with more random Landrover knowledge.

Weird thing is, I have not had any issue with my gearbox, I have the International 2.8, R38 Gearbox, LT250 (can't remember if I got the numbers right then on the transferbox). What I find is that I tend to kill the clutch, after all it is the week link in the whole transmission. If I lock the central diff, and both axles then I can burn out the clutch easily, you have to be pretty carful. However I did change the crown wheel and pinion gear rations to a 4.1 Ratio, this means it crawls nicely.

Yep, I thought the alternator was a little unique. It's nice to know that you have one that works, which one was it 52mm Diameter - 0-8000 Rpm or 0-6000 RpmI would guess it's the 0-6000 Rpm one?

Yep, this is a Duralite one, I had a different one in, but changed it to this to see if there was any change, the switch on the back has a 4,6,8 setting, tried all they all are reading way too high. Maybe there is a way to open it up and faff with it?

Trying to put a rev counter in my 110 which has a 2.8TGV engine. It always reads wrong, I know that it's a Brazilian alternator, anyone done this?

project update. it works... Eneded up doing a whole list of bits: New: Steering arm Uj's Steering box Track rod ends Steering Damper Head Gasket Injectors Glow plugs Air Filter Added: Electric Fuel Pump (great, primed instantly, cranked third go) Turbo Boost Gauge Swapped out rubber for some silicon hoses on various pipes Left to do: Rear left stub axel oil seal Change axel oil Change fuel filter Change oil Change oil filter Need some tlc I think.

I would take the head off if you are going this far

Ok, I thought a loop on the pump would be better, so it just pumps through it's self a stays good, so thanks for confirming my suspicions. I was kinda hoping to avoid the relay as I don't know where to put it, but this pump needs a 5 amp line, so I was thinking of putting a fuse on it anyway then it got me thinking...

Got this elec pump to fit, just wanted to double check the wiring. I earth it, then run the live wire to the fuel stop, will that give it power to run then? Or is it that the fuel stop just triggers a relay? As for the mechanical lift pump, can I just blank off the inlet and outlet? Or should I loop a pipe between them?

I did only think there are two torques, Tight and FT Tight.

A nip 'n' tuck and the head is on. cheers

Not sure if you tried this already, but take the glow plugs out, and the injectors. Something could have broken off and it between the top of the piston and the valve. One of my glow plugs burnt off and got crushed and bent a valve slightly, only found out when I took the head off to change the gasket. Just read the above, if the piston is coming up then it could crush something?

Can't / don't have a ratchet that goes low enough to do the glow plugs up to the right torque. Is is ok to put them in with a spanner, and set them to tight, not FT tight.

Over 4 years now

Pretty hard I guess I mean I don't do trials or anything comp things. Where I live is pretty off road and I take it along old logging roads allot, tow allot of heavy stuff, carry heavy things. I have his comp suspension on the truck too, but ended up putting twin shocks on the back (which really help when carrying heavy things with a heavy trailer too along these roads. In the summer it can get up to +30º, in the winter it can go as low as -40º (but mostly around - 15 ishº) Grease them every start of summer, and start of winter, that's it pretty much.

I got mine from Gwyn Lewis too, they have not failed yet.

I would say 1 / 2 days, whole days that is if you are not doing this allot, 1 day I reckon you can do it if you have everything you need with you and just keep at it. I managed to change the clutch in early December in the middle of a field, in the dark under a couple of halogen lamps where the temperature was around -5 to -10. It took 2 days but not full days as in december the sky goes from darkness to some sort of grey for only 3 hours, then its night again, so I tried to time it when it was "light outside", in a louse sense... The ground was frozen so the engine crane did not sink in either.

Is the flow rate written on it, as this is what is printed on the injectors: 300TDI one - 2FH KBAL 90P 37, 200 bar, 939 882 What came out of the TGV - KBAL 90P 37, 0 432193532, Turkey 939 885 on three of them, and 488 on one

As western surgests, Im gonna take the one from the TGV and the new 300TDI one to a Bosch / injector place to get them tested, as I really cannot see any difference, the only thing it could be is the spray pattern as even though it looks identical there could be some sort of slight difference. They could be a different part number, but the same part. They just make it different so you fee special when you buy the more expensive one.

Injectors look fine, just one end of a glow plug was crushed / broken or just worn out and burnt off.

Mine has done this about 4 times since I have had it, every time its the stub axle oil seal

Mine was doing this for a while, fixed it by bleeding the brakes allot.

Timing out just a little, explains why one of the ends of the glow plugs what crushed off.