hangover
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Posts posted by hangover
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Pulled head this morning and confirmed gasket blown between 2 and 3 as per normal, also found welch plug on rear of head was leaking.
Replacement head on and torqued down just need to adjust tappets and fill with coolant.
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I nearly bought a cheap arse alloy radiator off ebay but decided to get my rad rodded/ cleaned instead, was approx. 20% blocked so should be flowing well now.
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TATA should move production to India and continue to build them for 3rd world countries ensuring a stream of spare parts, plus the possibilty of importing to other countries.
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Pull the oil pump cover off and pack with petroleum jelly unless its a serp belt 3.9 then disregard.
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Not the solution for you but down here we have companies that make extra tanks that fit under the floor between the chassis and sill, usually capacity is 40-45litres which gives and excellent touring range on a TDI or provides normal capacity for a V8 fitted with LPG tanks in place the original fuel tank.
I had this setup in 2 different RRC's ,81 and 85, and gave me a range of about 1000klms combined.
So i could drive Melbourne to Sydney or Melbourne to Adelaide without stopping and still have fuel for running around.
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Usually the places that sell the batteries can test the fob to see if its actually emitting a signal or not.
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Unfortunately that gurgling sound you mentioned in the first post looks very like combustion gas leak into the cooling system, which can be HG or crack in the head...i've seen this few times on various diesel engines (Td5, 300Tdi, Td4) .that's why you can't bleed it cos gasses keep coming
Yes i believe it is the gasket most likely from a warped head (my fault as i probably didnt check it properly), engine runs at normal temp until trapped air prevents flow, spare head is being skimmed and will be fitted on the weekend.
Oh well, as they say **** happens
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Heater matrix is in the dash - did you run up the heater on max for about ten minutes?
Yes not that it makes much difference without a tap in the system, more to check when it starts to blow warm/hot air to tell when its got flow.
I spoke too soon and overheated on the way to work , gaskets are cheap but if the heads gone its more $$ and labour to replace - again.
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I made up an extension from a brass fitting, some rubber hose and fitted a funnel on top similar to what Boydie described. Filled untill the expansion tank was half full then placed cap on, continued filling untill rad was full.
Then filled from funnel untill funnel was holding coolant, started and ran engine til warm and squeezed all the hoses to push out any trapped air.
Been driving the last few days 56Klms round trip to work and although not overheating or losing coolant i'm still getting that gurgling ( more like swooshing ) under the dash.
Never had this much trouble bleeding it before, only part i havent replaced is the waterpump which i did notice had a little sideways shaft movement but not leaking.
I was told the rad was about 20% blocked when i had it cleaned.
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When you say all hoses new , did you replace the small bore bleed - off hoses from 'stat housing to the rad/header tank ? these can get blocked over several years , check the bleed pipe stub on 'stat housing is clear too
cheers
Steveb
I replaced the plastic ejector with a brass Y fitting a few months before doing the HG, but i did check all the fittings for blockages.
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I had repeated similar overheating issues with my Tdi and did most of the things you have. Several people suggested a mysterious 'Air lock' - but I couldn't see why it would have one now, but not before. I have a feeling that 'Air Lock' is code for 'Sorry mate, I haven't a clue!'
What it turned out to be was the Radiator. Although it looked fine from the outside and had been thoroughly flushed / cleaned, most of the fins inbetween the front & back faces (which looked fine) had corroded and were not providing any significant cooling.
First off, I replaced it with a cheap radiator bought at Newbury which fixed most of the problems, except when towing (up Birdlip Hill notably). At the very least it showed where the problem was (and I sold it on at the next Newbury) Then I replaced this with an AliSport radiator - and the problems all vanished! I could tow 3.5 Ton up Birdlip hill without the needle moving!
Si
Yeah i thought having the rad reco'd would solve my issues but it hasnt so far.
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300TDI, sorry i thought i had it in my signature which has disappeared. It all points to an airlock but for the life of me i cant purge the air out no matter what i try, my next step is to check the thermostat which is only a few weeks old and genuine LR and then check the waterpump again and possibly swap it for a spare pump.
I also thought about bypassing the heater just to see if i can purge it easier and confirm that it is the issue.
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For the last few months on and off i have been having cooling issues with my TDI disco, this culminated in me doing the head gasket 3 weeks ago.
2 yo head checked and passed , elring composite gasket and new bolt set. Ran well with the occasional temp rise just after slowing down from 80/100 kph, replaced viscous fan clutch as it hadnt been replaced in my near 10 year ownership, ran cooler on the highway at 100kph but still the occasional temp rise.
Radiator removed and cleaned/rodded (professionally) but bloody thing is still overheating which it was doing before the gasket change, expansion cap replaced and waterpump is 3yo and all hoses 2yo.
When the temp goes up it mostly comes back down quickly and sometimes loses some coolant, can also hear gurgling thru the heater core but there are no leaks and aircon drains are clear.
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Nice looking shorty, are they MOG portals or Volvo C303 ?
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Even a D2 chassis can be put under an RRC.
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Liner issue means the motor is toast.
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Now might be a good time to buy from the UK, with the vote to leave the EU the value of the pound has dropped so be cheaper for you.
Yeah should work out ok apart from my preferred seller Taunton Trailers say they are out of stock and no longer made, emailed TrailerTek so hopefully they have them and will suitable.
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That's just a trip to the shops in Oz
At which point when you get home you have to head back out again
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Postage is a killer at 17GBP still if i cant get them here there is no choice, comes to about AUD55 for 10 studs to my door so not too bad.
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Bought some custom studs a while back, for the moggy, these came up in my history:
Second one particularly looks pretty good for you?
Yes 2nd link looks good, the others only have a spline diameter of 16.2mm.
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This was a quick google, no idea if it'll help ?
http://www.tauntontrailers.co.uk/knott-avonride-m16--wheel-studs-170-p.asp
Thanks they do look exactly what i need, i found these but it worries me that they give the thread diameter as 5/8 UNF when they are meant to be M16.
http://www.autow.com/trailer-parts/trailer-suspension-spares/studs-nuts-bolts/SHG525
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Why not 300TDI, cheap to buy and easy to fix plus good economy when offroading.
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I'm most of the way thru building a 6x4 trailer that will be using D1 steel rims on hubs that were made to match a transit van ( same pcd but wrong stud size), i thought i'd be lucky and just press the old studs out and fit LR 16mm studs but it turns out that the transit studs are about 17mm in the spline so my studs wont fit.
So wondering if you chaps know where i can get 16mm studs that have at least a 17mm spline diameter and possibly a little longer than standard LR 16mm D1/RRC studs, down here the toyota 6 sud hubs are common for this type of use but i already have hubs and rims with tyres ready to go.
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Just pull the power lead from the solenoid and turn on the key for a few rotations, then plug in lead and start.
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300 tdi Turbo Big Bigger Biggest
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
VNT's arent that expensive and if you can get a 200tdi manifold it can be a bolt in job. Plenty of wrecking yard turbo's that would fit and are cheap.