Lightning

Clearly nothing to worry about then! I'll just keep driving it.

Anybody? I did look online and in the forum but found nothing definitive.

If l take the oil filler cap off my 2005 TD5 after a run, there's a fair bit of white smoke comes out. ls this something to worry about?

Yes l fitted one to our 2003 TD5 90 and also our 2005 TD5 110. It makes the clutch noticeably lighter, and easier to drive in traffic.

I have found that Ebay is not generally the best place to sell vehicles, you tend to get low bids as everybody wants it for nothing. Usually the auction seems to stall at the "trade in" value.

Ah, l see. It would l imagine be a bit "lazy" on power delivery with no turbo.

From reading this thread l would go with reconditioned TD5's as already suggested. As you were happy with this engine, it has lasted 300,000+ km in your environment, and it will be much easier to fit (than fitting a different unit) As already said, poor mechanics could soon ruin any engine and it sounds like you can't do much about this, except do the work yourself when you are there. Perhaps bring someone out with you to helpservice the fleet leaving your "bush mechanics" with as little as possible to do. But despite this your TD5's have lasted very well....another reason to fit like for like. With regard to the Land Cruiser, the 4.2 develops around 200bhp, and 430Nm torque at 1800rpm so should not feel "gutless, like a TD5 with no turbo" Could it be poor quality fuel? Maybe the ECU is reigning it in due to that.

The newest TD5's are over ten years old now, and it's getting harder to find a good one, although they are out there. TDCi is better on the motorway but the engine is less economical than TD5. Both engines can be remapped which addresses any performance issues. Overdrive can be fitted to TD5 but it costs over £1500. Also which interior do you prefer? TDCi has less room in the front due to the big dash, and needs aircon due to the lack of vent flaps. I do 15,000 miles per year in my 110 TD5 and it's been pretty reliable. l have driven the TDCi and it seems some are nice and others nasty to drive. Personally l don't like the Ford engine but if you want a Defender less than ten years old it's that or nothing. One other thing....TDCi 2.4 Station Wagons pay £510 road tax while the post 2012 2.2 pay £230. TD5 pre March 2006 it's £290. Post March 2006 it's £510! Make sense of that.

Amazing how this online crime takes place and nobody does anything about it. The thieves must be snorting with laughter every time somebody falls for it.

I think it's to do with cylinder balance/fuelling. Our 2006 TD5 bought new was always rough if you revved it through the gears. l bought a 2005 110 TD5 and it was rough over about 2500rpm. I had the ECU reset and software update at the LR main dealer and after that it was smooth as silk. Then l got it remapped and the performace was much improved, but the rough engine was back. l had it reset at Land Rover again, and it was smooth once more. Everything else has been checked and is OK. No fault codes stored. I think you get good and bad ones. The missus has a 120,000 mile 2003 TD5 and that's really smooth....which is what made me realise just how rough my 110 was!

I've just been reading this. When you push the lever to the left to engage diff lock should it stay over to the left then? On our 2006 TD5 you push the lever over, the light comes on, you let go of the lever, and it springs back to the normal position immediately! The diff lock light stays on though...is this wrong?

The vehicle will pull away in third (with careful use of the clutch) as described above, I tried it yesterday. Obviously you would not normally drive like that (plus allowing the vehicle to labour in too high a gear). It was just that the dealer went on about it and it made me think there may be a fault with my engine. I'm sure there's no fault with it.

The TD5 engine in my Defender has an off-beat lumpiness at low RPM/idle and it is this that causes the shunting. (i.e r-r-r-r-r-r-r-r as opposed to rrrrrrrrrrrr ) don't laugh! Is this normal for the TD5? It's OK in low range 1/2/3 (no shunting at idle when rolling along) I do know that it was used as a demonstrator and it was probably not run in, plus the boost had been turned up on the wastegate. (since returned to the correct setting) It's now done 16,000 miles.

I was just thinking mine may have something wrong with it as if you let it die down to idle speed in 4th (high range) it starts to shunt badly. Then again it's not something you would do in normal driving. It's only that the dealer told me it would do it....maybe he wanted to sell me a new engine.

I asked this question some time ago on another forum and just got told off for it! However I do have a genuine reason for asking! The guy from the LR dealer told me you could "get to 30mph through the gears without touching the accelerator" in a TD5. Why you would want to I have no idea but I tried it and mine won't do it at all. Below 20 in 4th is a no go for a start. What's the minimum speed that a Defender TD5 will drive at on a flat road in 4th gear?

should the door locks on a 2006 Defender have a return spring on the key? That is, when you insert the key and turn it to open the door should the key spring back to the vertical position when you let go? The reason I ask is that both locks have been replaced and there is no spring action...the key just flops from side to side (although it does work) and I'm sure it was not like that before!

I want to purchase gap insurance for our Defender...it's 2 years old. I am insured with NFU and they have a new for old up to 2 years, this has just run out. Some insurers do "return to value" meaning they pay out what the vehicle is worth as of today but Defenders confuse them as they are not in the Parkers/Glass's guides. Has anybody managed to get Gap insurance on a Defender over 2 years old? If so what company did you use?

I don't know how that happened! Anyway I found out what this was....after trying everything I discovered it was the bonnet hinges! A bit of oil on 'em and the squeak's gone. Would you credit that.

A squeak has developed from somewhere under the transmission tunnel on our '06 90 CSW. It's a real stinker...it seems to be caused by the movement of the engine (so is there when stationary as well as driving) and I've been underneath with WD40, had the cubby box out, had the rubber cover off the gearlevers, etc but the little sod is still there. The only thing I can think of now is the exhaust flexible clamps? I don't suppose anybody else has had a similar problem and found what it was?

I was looking under my Defender TD5 (2006) to try and locate a noise. Looking at the drum brake for the handbrake it has a metal plate attached to it, and the plate has what look like a pair of brake pads bolted to it. (one on each side) Nothing else is connected to the metal plate except the 2 bolts that hold it to the outer rim of the drum. What is this? Is it some kind of vibration damper?

Somebody has mentioned this already but I had the same problem with mine. Take out the centre cubby box or seat and look at the top of the gearbox to see if it is touching the body. Mine was and it caused a knocking noise but it went OK after a few thousand miles.

You'd probably have to change the tyres for road use?

The price includes VAT...so if you are VAT registered (I am not sadly) you could claim the VAT back. I looked on their website and there is a picture of one....it's done 3000 miles though. They said the delivery mileage ones were nearer £19000 and those with a few miles were nearer 18. It's called "Marple Road Garage" and is near Stockport, UK. Please note I have absolutely nothing to do with this garage.

My local dealer has a "cancelled MOD order" of Defender 110's....the new Ford engine/new interior. They have delivery mileage only and are the basic 110 Station Wagon with 5 seats, loadspace in the rear, heavy duty towbar, steel wheels, chunky tyres, and in a sort of forest green colour. They are asking £18500-19000 for them (there are 17) and is this a good price?

My windscreen wipers have suddenly developed about four inches of play and are clunking....how do I get to the mechanism to see what might be wrong? The vehicle is an 06 CSW. I'd rather take a look at it myself before "entrusting" it to a dealer, I am sure it must be just something come loose?