Lightning

Don't fit spacers between the unit and the floor. Fit it flat with one thin washer. Then fit a standard rubber floor mat over the top (cut away to fit around the lock at the rear). You'll find that the mat will stay in place when you use the pedal lock.

Could you put a tube in it?

I think something will break cover before long. How far along the line it is, l don't know. I'm not sure Land Rover/Tata really know how to replace Defender. But there have been reports from LR that it is "near to completion" and l don't think that lying is in the LR remit.

No the only 2wd version of the Evoque is the ED4. I don't think there's a single one among the dozens of Evoques on my estate.

LR will build vehicles that make money for them. There's no sentiment, if a new Defender will make money they will build it. It will probably be full of tech and a ruggedized version of an existing platform. Although there is talk of a separate aluminium chassis. It could be good, but sadly l doubt prices will start at much less than £30,000

I have to concede that brighter is safer.

The funny thing is, tonight the missus got home (in her 2003 SW) and said she'd been told one of her brake lights was not working. l took the lamp out and it was 1/3 full of water. The bulb had blown and the bulb contacts were rusted. l fitted a spare lamp unit but it makes a bit of a mockery of my previous comments about having no trouble with water in the lamps.

I find the standard Defender TD5 headlights OK but there would always be an advantage with more light. However l don't like the look of the LED headlamps, l think they spoil the look of the front of the vehicle. But l can't deny the advantages. I do a lot of mountain biking and LED lights have transformed night riding. I have a light no bigger than a toilet roll centre that puts out 120w of light, and will do it for two hours with the built in battery.

Sorry, you've not changed my mind. l've had three Defenders and done over 100,000 miles in that time l've never had a faulty bulb holder or one fill with water. l'm all for technology, it's my job....l worked on the development of switch mode power supplies that are now fitted in everything. But l for me LED lamps on a Defender just don't do it. l'll save them for my BMW thank you. That's the great thing about Defenders though, each to their own. You fit your LED's and l'll stay with my regular lamps.

Yes the speaker pods are quite dear, typical LR parts price extortion. But have a look on Ebay, l bought mine from there at £35 for two. The advantage (with the genuine LR pods) is, certainly on TD5, that the wiring will be already there. So just remove the metal corner pieces, fit the pods, fit the speakers, and plug the wires in to the speakers Note that if you have side facing rear seats, you have to remove the seat bases to fit the pods.

I've said it before.....why would you want to fit LED lamps on a Defender? It was not designed for LED lamps and you are just adding complication that was not there before. What's wrong with a bulb and holder? Easy to fix in the middle of nowhere, just carry a couple of spare bulbs....rarely gives trouble....been lighting up the front and rear of Defenders perfectly well since 1949.

It might be the DMF, it was on the missus's 90 TD5. It only occurred at lower speeds and in low gears, as with yours. l got a new clutch plus flywheel and after that it was fine.

The studs always shear off the turret rings, every time l've done this job at least one has sheared off.

I fitted one of these last week. When locked it does push the brake pedal just enough to start applying the brakes. When it's laid on the floor the hinged lock part is pretty much flat against the seat box. It all seems to work very well. But l did have trouble getting the lock mechanism to work, l had to leave the spacer washer out from the ratchet mechanism otherwise it was too stiff. lt needed to be installed as far over to the left as possible, to centralize the lock on the brake pedal. I had to cut away a couple of mm from the edge of the transmission tunnel to allow the lock to sit flat on the floor. Also l used Nyloc nuts instead of the shear nuts, in case l ever need to remove it. There's no way on earth you could remove any more than the outermost bolt with it in the locked position. All told the unit fitted very well indeed.

As you have the heat shield off, the easiest thing to do is whip off the spring clip from the actuator rod and see if the wastegate is free to move, rather than trying to force the actuator with a pair of pliers.

I have had this in my Ford van with the tdci engine, if the oil is overdue for a change. After filling with new oil it goes black very quickly. How many miles since your last oil change? You could change the oil again as l did, and it will then look clean for a bit longer. But l don't think it will make much difference to the engine.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262917927840 This looks good at under £11,000. Again, always check that it's genuine when on Ebay. But it's a dealer so you could call them.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162500317808 Have you looked at TD5? What about this for £11,500? If genuine (don't pay a deposit online or over the phone) it looks like a good deal. TD5's being newer are easier to find in good condition.

I had the same misfire with our 2004 TD5 Defender. One cylinder clearly not firing. There was no oil at the ECU red plug but l changed the injector harness anyway, and it cured the misfire. That was about five months ago and the fault has not recurred. Worth a try, the injector harness is under £30 and is easy to change. And if it does not cure the fault, at least you will know what it isn't.

That's a good result. l was going to suggest you got it checked by a Land Rover Specialist and then get them to do a report.

Well, you paid it so l am guessing somebody else will. Not sure what the going rate is for a restoration project these days.

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272039076443 These are what you need, l have them on my 110. They are great because they sit lower than the sill, so are easy to use. l am sure they also do a version for the 90.

The three wire connector is the same as mine. The three speeds will be no resistors, one resistor, and both resistors. So you only need three wires...a common feed, resistor A, and resistor B (which gives A+B)

Most of the sound comes from your front speakers, the rears provide fill in and generally improve the overall effect. Your best bet would be to fit a couple of the LR rear speaker pods that fit in the lower corners at the back. These will take a 5 1/2" two way speaker and will be as good as you need.