Speedy_Gonzales

Im near juction of M6 & M56... Ive PM'ed Porny about running diagnostics, if you want to travel down 'convoy' style, im up for it! LOL Jamie

Haha - none taken! It used to do 80 even 85-90 at a push (I normally stick to around 65-70 as a rule!), but it struggles to get over 70 these days, and Ive only done 10k in it since I bought it last year I have noticed a lot of deteriation in top end during that time though.. Been out for a good run down to North Wales in it today, would reach 70 but not go over, and at 70 it sounds like it used to at 80! Biggest issue is that the power spurts at between 60 & 65 and it starts spluttering. Im gonna get it plugged in, think I will ahve a chat with Porny and try and get a mapping, failing that gonna get it into dieselcraft near me for a check.

Neat job

Hi Matt, around 6k ago I perfromed a full service... The problem I had seemed to be a back pressure issue on the turbo, hence the actuator greasing, seemed to sort it for a while. Maybe need another service perhaps?

Still having problems with a sluggish TD5, originally thought I had resolved this by copper greasing the rod connecting the turbo to the actuator which seemed to improve things, but its still struggling around the 70 mark. It seems to splutter a bit in the revs build up around the 65mph mark, but if I keep my foot down it will hit 70, problem is its a TD5 and it used to do 80mph no worries...!!? Any pointers? Ta Jamie

Thanks Western, as concise as ever I found these, they look okay: http://www.britishparts.co.uk/.sc/ms/dd/ee/2398/27969333 and these: http://www.britishparts.co.uk/.sc/ms/dd/ee/2397/27969331 I guess they are not genuine land-rover ones, but Im not bothered as long as they do the job Sorry, hope links are okay???

As per the title, anyone bought any recently? Who are the cheapest? I know the front ones are standard across all models, the rears are 11/130 specific.. Is there a special [cutaway] mudflap on the exhaust side or is this just on the 90? Thanks in advance Jamie

My 2000 TD5 is currently on 165k, runs sweet, having a few issues at present with a sticky turbo actuator, but apart from that shes a beauty! As mentioned, service history is very important, mines an ex Environment Agency truck so no expense spared over the years, phoned them up and they sent me a copy of all the work that was ever done to her since birth...!!!

My front UJ is at a bit of an odd angle because of the 2" lift, and I do get a bit of prop slap because of this... but Ive done nearly 10,000 miles with it like that. Could probably do with a double cardon joint, but as you probably know theyre expensive! Will check the heat of the UJ next time I take it for a run, I recently regreased all the nipples so thought it was more likely to be the drum... Thanks for your input

Sorry Western, was interested in trying to understand what the squeak was all about as much as querying the fiting of the x-brake! Good effort all round nevertheless

Thanks All, Colin, your photo diagrams are brilliant! Great work. Thanks again Jamie

As per the topic title, I have a canary under my TD5 110! I originally thought it was the props, but Ive greased the nipples (ooohhh!!!!) and its still there... Handbrake is very high at the moment too, am I need of some new shoes in the handbrake drum? Just out of intrest, how easy is it to fit the x-brake? I have a two inch lift on it, will this create any additional problems to fitting? Thanks for looking Jamie

Thanks for your help all, will have a good nosey underneath today

Hey Mortus, no its a manual, but I will check the exhaust thanks! I refitted the breathers recently (they all come up my snorkel) so its houldnt be that.. I need to get underneath while driving to identify where the noise is coming from, just dont fancy being strapped to the underside of a land rover while driving down the road! I still think it is something to do with the brake drum on the transfer box though...hmmmm

Been out in it again today, and it is definitely drivetrain related (i.e. and increase in speed gives an increase in the noise made), it is also most definitely coming form the transfer box brake drum area and is still intermittent... I have checked the props and UJ's etc, all seem sound.. its a kind of 'Brrrrrrr' noise.. Has anyone else had a similar problem? Sounds a little like dirt or gravel in the drum housing catching on something??!!!

Did some trials in the 110 at Chirk on the weekend (its amazing the places you can get a boat like that!), but coming home I had this intermittent rattle from underneath when accelerating.. It seemed to be coming from the transfer box/props area... Was okay on the motorway at a steady 65-70, only occured when accelerating in all gears. Is it possible that a stone or something can get inside the handbrake cylinder and start rattling around? Any advice appreciated

I had something similar happen to me in my Defender, problem was if we didnt sort it out the only way out was via an airlift! We managed to use my front winch and another guys rear winch to straighten it out. I went straight out and bought a pair of HD's, not sure if they are Bearmach or Sumo or what, but they are a lot better than the originals (hollow steering arms on a land rover who would have thought of it!), not had any problems since... I would also get some protection for the front arm too... Have fun ~

Phoned a few of the turbo guys today and was quoted from £45 to £70 for a recon actuator, though after speaking to one guy might have an answer. He commented that treating the sticking actuator rod with WD40 would not really help due to the high heat generated by the turbo (why didnt I think of that!) which would effectively evaporate the WD quickly. He suggested trying a high temperature grease or oil instead... I'm going to strip it off the turbo, give it a clean and grease the part where the actuator rod goes into the diaphram container (the zinc circular thingie!) Will try this and update the thread accordingly:)

These guys provide details on the Garrett GT20 type: http://www.crturbos.co.uk/cat_06.htm

Lovely, thanks Nic P.S: I didnt realise it was called an actuator and not an activator!

I posted on here a few weeks back when my TD5 started being really lumpy, and after some kind feedback from the folks on here I established that it was the turbo activator sticking: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...turbo+activator It has since [turbo activator] started playing up intermitently, mainly after the engine gets warm after a run... Sometimes theres power then there isnt! I can rectify this with WD40 and a pair of pliers, but in all honesty I dont want to be doing this every 5 minutes!!! Looking at microcat the turbo activator is not listed as a seperate component, so I was wondering if anyone out there may know where to get hold of one, or even better may have a spare one lying around that they would like to sell? Alternatively, (and as I may have to do this myself) has anyone with a similar problem stripped an activator down and is able to give me a few pointers in the right direction, i.e. removal and problem parts/areas etc? Many thanks Jamie

It seems that on mine the screws are the push buttons! D'oh!

Is this for the analogue type (i.e. not digital)? Mine has two small screws, I often thought that they may be the adjustments...hmmm!

As per the topic, never been able to fathom out how you set the clock properly (52mm vdo type)... Mines a TD5, but probably the same on 200/300's too!!! How do you do it? Jamie

Thought it was more likely to be the door seals (errr or gaps!)...!!!