Speedy_Gonzales

Will provide a conclusive update with pics next weekend if I get it completed, will add it directly to the Tech Archive, will post link on here as and when. Jamie

The 30 & 40 codes are used to differentiate between leftcand right hand drive, not sure what difference that would make to the hose mind! £5.36 + vat direct from the stealers. Thanks y'all:)

Thanks for this James, I searched Microcat as someone provided me with the code 'MPN JEI 100030', but I couldnt find it anywhere... what section is it under? I also heard that dropping the tank was a ball-ache (hence cutting the rear load area), you got some instructions / guidance on the best way to do this? Thanks in advance Jamie

Not gone in yet Simon, so just wanted to get some ideas first. The existing fueline I've got is about 3-4mm thick so looks like I will have to pack it out tight into the nipple with hose or something as PetethePilot has suggested. The fuel line then needs to feed through 30cm into the bottom of the tank to pick up fuel. I think in the 2nd pic the hose secured to the nipple is an outer rubber sheath, the fueline underneath. Cheers Jamie

Ive poured through countless threads and forums on the subject of fitting an ebesrapcher air heater to a TD5 but still need a couple more pointers! Heres where Im at... Ive mounted my D2 heater between the front passenger seat and bulkhead (I have a 110 hardtop), this required me to cut away some of the alluminium edging behind the seat to fit (will post some pics on this) and I took away one of the plates on the bulkhead to allow blower access to the rear. I might change this in the future as Ive seen a great example of one mounted under the drivers seat, but not sure if there is enough room in the TD5 amongst all the electric gizmos. Next comes the fuel feed, dont try T'ing into the existing fuel lines as they are high pressure (low pressure return) and will cause problems for the heater pump. Plus they need to have the engine running for a continuous feed. Instead, the TD5 fuel pump has a blanked off feed for use when a 'fuel burning heater' is required to pre-heat the water cooling system (I guess this is for trucks used in really cold climates). Its number 1 in the attached diagram: You need to cut the top off the plastic nipple and use a 30cm feeder tube into the bottom of the tank... This is the bit Im stuck on as Im unsure how to attach the fuel line to both the feed and the nipple (to make it air tight) and what the dimensions are (any help appreciated here!) I found these pics on a dutch website of the nipple and the attached feed: Im going to have to cut a hole in the rear load bay to access the pump, the following pics provide some clarity on dimensions etc: Will provide an update on this when I make progress! Once I get an answer on this might be worth the mods moving it to the technical archive Jamie

Lovin this thing, looks ace

Cheers All, Will probably just leave it in there...

Get yerself a 110 nick and put it on a diet

Thanks as ever Western, I was thinking along the same lines Take its theres no risk of plastic degredation in the tank?

Was filling up the old girl from a jerry can today and the plastic nozzle on the end of the filler fell into the tank. Will this cause any issues? Its a TD5 so its got the high pressure pump built into the tank. I do have to cut a hole in the tub of the 110 to plumb my eberspacher in at some point soon, so is this something I can deal with then? Also, if I was to do this, do I need a special tool to remove the fuel pump from the tank? Thanks Jamie

Hi Errol, Thanks for your help mate, will start with obvious and follow the elimination process in the Land Rover tradition! Im based out of north cheshire bud, outskirts of warrington.

Did a roadtest today, rumble is certainly not as bad as before but still evident at the 65 mph mark. Could this be a front prop issue? What do I need to do to check out other issues, i.e. wheel bearings and/or gearbox? Ta Jamie

Just replaced the rear prop as the UJ seat had 'ovalled', somthing I had been planning on doing for a while, not roadtested it on a run yet but will check this out and post back with feedback. Thanks Jamie

My TD5 110 is making a god awful noise at the 65mph mark (in top gear). Starts off like a rumble but then resonates through the whole vehicle. Im running BFG Muds but they were never this bad, and the noise is evident when revving up and down through the 65/66mph mark. Anything above or belwo this speed seesm to be fine, no issues! Is this a wheelbearing or possible a gearbox issue? Thanks in advance for your input Jamie

Hi All, Im up for tagging along on this... How many trucks going now? Please notify me of the meet dates amd location etc and will see you there. Thanks Jamie

On my last service I stupidly managed to partially strip the threads on the sump nut housing! I have had to leave the brass o-ring off so I can get purchase at the the top of the nut to keep it in... Problem is I dont trust it taking it anywhere rough in case it pops out and leaves me devoid of engine oil. Can these be re-tapped and if so who by? Thanks Jamie

Where is the box located Dave?

Friend has some 'GKNu110's bought in error, title would suggest these are the right ones? Any clues? Thanks in advance as ever Jamie

Followed the 3rd gear rocking technique above (with pal) and diagnosed this as the rear UJ. Bolts are absolutely stuck fast, wont budge even with the rattle gun, looks like a grinder jobby!!! What UJ do I need for a TD5 110? Mate has a couple bought in error that may fit Will install new UJ and check for any other noises, hopefully just that!!! Ta for the help Jamie

Thanks All, will have a look

Mainly when putting my foot down or backing off, massive clunking. Seems to come from front prop but it could be rear, could be a driveshaft maybe? Whats the best way to diagnose whether its a prop or driveshaft issue? Could it be anything else? Thanks in advance Jamie

I use the No-Go bolt head covers mentioned in this thread, they are very good... If someone wants your winch they will stop at nothing to get it, or more likely just try and steal your truck.. So in reality all you can do is make it less easy for oportunists to nick it and you can only get the No-Go's off if you use a grinder. Have to agree with Mickey above though, they really are a permanent fixture and if you are into comps and stuff where you eed to service your winch regularly, your probably best just removing your winch full stop! Hope this helps Jamie

Gonna get this all checked out, will look at this too JST. Thanks Jamie

Spot on Greg, thats exactly whats happening to mine!

Hi Matt, funnily enough its just top end (4th and 5th Gear), my mate suggested it could be a collapsed/split hose running off the actuator which seems to create this issue.... Checked it out seems its okay! Its so frustrating, hence need to get diagnostics!!!