Spearos

It's on the passenger side and takes drive from the PAS pump. Cheers

Ok I think I get it now - The regulator 'wants' 20 odd volts from the alternator (due to it being faulty)and the alternator, of course cannot manage this and is only supplying 14v. Because there is a difference between these values, the warning light is on? Thanks again for your help, I would buy you a pint but it's a little too far for that so I'll donate it to this forum

Need to replace the alternator on the above vehicle. It is a factory fitted V8 and was originally fitted with Air-con (if that makes any difference?) The alternator has a stud fitting and uses a V belt.

Ahhh ok - and you have come to this conclusion because of the readin at the small brown wire? Only asking as I'm keen to learn. I will have a look to see if there's anywhere local who can fix my alternator, however I may buy a new/secondhand one and keep the old as a spare. Trouble is I'm finding it hard to get a part number, is there a way of checking what output mine is - 45A or 65A? Thanks again Errol

Thanks for the replies. Ok, had a chance to do as you suggested. The small brown wire gave me 12.7 - 13.4v @ idle and 20.1v @ 2000rpm! On idle it constantly went up and down. With load (lights, radio, heated screen and heater full whack) the alternator gave me 11.9 @ idle and 13v @ 2000rpm. Does the brown wire giving over 20v @ 2000rpm give anything away? Seems like a bit of a rougue reading... I think I read somewhere else that a defective diode can cause the warning light to illuminate so maybe that's it? So next question is, can you buy these diodes and is it easy to replace them?

Ok, just been and checked the output at the alternator. It is 12.7v @ idle and 14.1 @ 2000rpm. Does this give any clues as to what (if anything) is wrong? Cheers.

Thanks for the reply. I believe the belt is correctly tensioned - I reset the tension when I replaced the bolt. I can check the alternator output, I'll do some research on how to do that - unless you can advise? As for the wiring touching anything hot, I'm pretty sure it hasn't - there isn't a lot of 'free' wire for it to get near to anything and as the other mounting bolt was still in place I don't think the alternator moved... much! I also gave the wires a quick inspection when I replaced the bolt and didn't notice any evidence of damage/burning.

Hi All, The other day driving my '87 90 V8 to work a slight burning smell was noticed then the battery warning light illuminated. Upon closer inspection it was observed that the alternator rear mounting bolt had worked loose and had fallen free. Today I replaced the mentioned bolt and the light distinguished - but only on idle, when the revs are raised the light comes back on. I measured the voltage at the battery on idle and it is 12.6 - 12.7. At 2000rpm it is 13.8. From my limited knowledge I think this is too low. So has the alternator had it? If a new alternator is needed, can anyone shed any light as to which alternator is needed? I see there are many varients, obviosuly I can match up the 'fittings' but how can I identify what rating I need - i.e 65amp? Cheers.

Sorted! As suggested on another forum I went to Halfords to try and find a belt not so long. Anyway, I got a belt 675mm long and it fits perfectly! If my source is reliable that is the correct length of a genuine Land Rover belt anyway (something I later found out)... It seems that sellers of non-genuine belts possibly source belts of a particular size and then list them as fitting any vehicle with a belt length within 10/15mm of this length. This would explain the belt I brought originally (non-genuine) being 690mm and the old belt (which wasn't genuine either) being 685mm and being acceptable on full adjustment. I could of course be talking a load of b*llocks but maybe it's true - you get what you pay for and should stick with genuine items! Cheers.

That rules out the alternator pulley then! That would be great if you could do that, cheers!

It was a Bearmach belt, does that help? It did in fact cross my mind whether a pulley had been changed, or in fact the whole Alternator? Are the pulleys on V8 alternators all the same size?

Hi all, I'm looking for suggestions, I recently changed the Alternator belt on my '87 factory fitted V8. I have the alternator pulled away from the engine as far as the bracket allows and in this position there is barely enough tension. With a new belt this cannot be right, can it? Has anyone else had this problem? The vehicle was originally fitted with air con and the belt is a Bearmach item, part number ERR2073. Any help/suggestions very welcome...

Super, many thanks Fender! Thats clears that up - it's the size of the top pin bolts that identify if it's an early or later swivel. It's not the bottom pin bolts as mentioned earlier in this topic - I assume all the bottom pin bolts will be 13mm as it doesn't matter if it's a early or late swivel, they both have taper bearings. While researching this, I read that if your Defender has rear drums the chances are it'll have Railko bush on the top swivel pin and if it has rear discs then it'll have the later taper bearing on the swivel top pin. Cheers, Mark

I still don't think I'm being clear enough I'm not asking about the differences between the 2 types, I'm asking how you identify each one without taking it apart. Thanks for your interest though - I don't mean to sound rude If you look at the 'how to' on earlier Railko type swivels, the lower pin bolts are quoted as being 13mm. But it says above that it's the later type swivels that have 13mm lower pin bolts. I'm guessing the 'how to' is correct as you can see the bolts in one of the pics and they look about 13mm. So, is it the later type swivels that have 17mm bolts on the lower pin?

Sorry, I wasn't very clear - this topic says that early swivels fitted to defenders with a railko bush on the top can be identified by having 17mm bolts on the bottom pin. But the 'how to' in the technical achive shows the bottom pin bolts on an early swivel are 13mm... Does this mean that in the later type with roller bearings top and bottom are actually identified by 17mm bolts on the bottom pins not 13mm? All I'm trying to clear up is what type of swivel bearings have I got - the bolts for the bottom pins are 13mm?

Planning on doing the swivel seals on my '87 LR90 soon, and I'm trying to find out if I have the Railko type or the later roller bearing type. I think I have the Railko type but... In Les Hensons write up on a Railko equipped 110, http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...6&hl=swivel The text under the 25th photo says the bottom pins have 13mm bolts which contradicts the quote above? Great write up, very clear but can anyone clear this up?

Thanks pat pending all is apparant now after stripping the dizzy today and found the springs not connected! Connected them up and re-built it, I now have centrifugal advance! Here is the link to the page that tells you how to strip the distributor, should any one want a gander: http://how-to-build-a-pilgrim-sumo.wikidot...cles-by-members Thanks to everyone who took the time to reply. All the best, Mark

Not sure where you mean, there's two shafts? Will have a look tomorrow and see if it becomes clear. Thanks, Mark

Sorted! Well, one bit anyway - Retarded the timing, re-set the idle speed and CO2 and balanced the carbs. She now runs sweet, better than it ever did! And no running on! Thanks to all that replied, especially pat pending for your instructions. Just need to do a bit of road testing and see how the LPG likes the 'tweeks'... I also managed to have a look and a play regarding the distributor - I think the vacuum advance is working fine, tried the sucking trick and I see the arm move. Also with the engine revs increased the timing does move, but seems a little slow to react. Could this be because of the vacuum delay valve in the vacuum line? I guess this is what it's supposed to do, hence the name but what is it's purpose? However, the centrifugal advance definitely isn't working - with the vacuum advance disconnected there is no change in the timing at higher revs. With the dizzy cap off the rotor arm only 'twists' about 5 degrees but does not spring back, during these 5 degrees of movement there is a noise that I can only describe as a rattle. So, further investigation is required - does any one know (or have a link) how to dismantle the distributor so I can see what's happened to the centrifugal advance? Thanks for the site recommendation Quagmire, I will be looking on there tonight.

Had a quick look outside with a torch, found part number ETC6876 on the distributor. Quick search on Google confirms what thought - it is an 35DLM8 distributor. I checked the rotor arm movement while I was out there too, it moved a few degrees, but didn't want to spring back Might be worth mentioning that when I changed the rotor arm last summer, the old one was seized and whilst trying to get it off by pulling upwards I remember the shaft it is attached to rising slightly. At which point my pants turned brown I tried a different approach - breaking the rotor arm up, which worked. My point is I'm thinking maybe I've dis-lodged something or, even broken something?!!

I thought you had one or the other! Learnt something already Will check this after doing the timing and report back. Great advice guys, much appreciated.

Great! Thanks once again. I will get chance to adjust the timing on my next day off, probably Tuesday. I'm confused here, did you mean mechanical or vacuum advance?

Thank you for clearing that up Sean. And yes that was the idea - that 8 degrees would be a compromise between petrol and LPG. Also, I'm sure the poppet valves have already been soldered shut. Spot on pat_pending, there's a lot there for me to go on. Looks like I need to get it running sweet on petrol first then. Any one know what I should set the timing to for petrol? Thanks for the replies guys.

It's a standard 1987, 3.5 running SU carbs and LPG. I think the distributor is a 35DLM8 (it has the little black box mounted on the side - amp?). Will try and confirm this tomorrow. I set it at 8 degrees as from the various different opinions I've read, I thought somewhere between 6 and 8 degrees would be ok for dual fuel usage (petrol/LPG). Again, please forgive my ignorance but is it possible that ignition timing can cause this problem? I only ask as surely when the ignition is switched off, there is no spark? I may well be talking carp and be totally wrong but my knowledge is basic and I'm just trying to learn more as well as sorting this problem out. Thanks, Mark

Hi forum, forgive my ignorance - I need help once again! My '87 V8 90 has developed an annoying problem, when I switch it off it gives a few little 'rattles'. It only does this when hot, I believe it could be pre-ignition? Am I right in thinking that this is not to do with the timing as when the pre ignition happens the ignition is switched off? I have not heard any pinking during normal operating. I have recently set the timing to 8 degrees BTDC and the CO2 to about 2.5% using a Gunsons Gastester.