Spearos

True, no harm in gathering people's experiences though. Thanks to everyone for posting their thoughts. Looks like they'll be receiving another order from me soon! I like the idea of having a 'bulk' supply of oil in the garage, should work out a little cheaper too. Although not quite sure where it's going to go, space is at a premium with all the useful things carp I have in there!

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2033667/Final-Frontera-Mountaineers-puzzled-appearance-mystery-4x4-near-summit-Snowdon.html?ito=feeds-newsxml

Just ordered some of their own waxoil, cheaper than the 'proper' waxoyl and I've heard good things about it. Noticed they do bulk quantities of gear oil and 20w 50 - so if any body has any experience of their oils, I 'd like to hear about it too

Can't comment on the cold front stuff, however changing the cappings isn't a difficult job - there's a thread on here (somewhere) with photos which could possibly help?. Fit yourself some glavanised cappings, and then forget all about rust/holes/repairing.

The second video is strange, some people fill their time doing very strange things...

Couple of topics about this for you: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=19558 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=2034 HTH

My 90 used to lock up one back wheel under heavy braking too. they used to squeal like a pig as well. With the drums off a quick look identified one of the springs wasn't on correctly (compared it with here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=33910). Anyhow moved the spring to the correct position and I haven't had it lock up since. Squealing went as well. Worth checking the springs perhaps?

Keep it simple and replace like-for-like. Just my two bobs worth...

Spot on! It appears I have fitted the lower shaft on my vehicle in a very similar, if not identical position. Many thanks for that pic Retroanaconda, and thanks for your help Western. Done a decent amount of miles this morning and all seems fine, so fingers crossed!

But as Retroanaconda said the lower shaft rotates through 360 degrees, so surely if it was likely to hit another part, it would do it irrespective of what position it was fitted? Would anyone be so kind and post a pic of the position of the lower shaft with the wheels in the 'straight ahead' position?

Thanks Bo, great idea! For now though, the washing line will do!

Will bare that in mind next time the steering wheel needs to come off. Thanks, that's just the reassurance I need.

To stop the steering wheel flying off? I have the central shaft on the right way - as you say. What I mean is as I see it the splines on the pump and on the steering column have no locating feature so in theory the central shaft/UJ assembly can be fitted in any position - does it matter in what position it's fitted is what I'm worried about. Cheers

With the garden make over finally finished and SWMBO happy I finally had some free time to address this today. Replaced the steering UJs with only one problem (question later). Then I started to adjust the tracking, the washing line told me it was out! All going well until it came to removing the steering wheel.It just wouldn't budge. So ended up fannying around making this steering wheel extractor. Small piece of 10mm plate, two 6mm holes 32mm apart and one in the middle tapped to suit an M12 bolt. Used 2 x M6 bolts to attach it to the steering wheel tightened the M12 bolt... nothing... few more turns, the bolt was starting to get very difficult to turn, and then pop, almost ended up having the imprint of a steering wheel on my face!! Isn't it satisfying when a home built (bodged) tool works?! Just as the steering wheel came off, the heavens opened so I called it a day. Back out there tomorrow, hoping the plus gas I liberally applied to the TREs mean they'll be easy to adjust So, my question, in my haste to get stuck into the UJs I failed to mark the UJs top and bottom before I removed the assembly The wheels never moved but the steering wheel did - the top UJ was a bugger to get off! As the wheels were in the 'straight ahead' position when I started, all I did was center the steering wheel and refit the shaft with the new UJs. Now, I know that there is only one position the UJs will fit to the 'middle' shaft because of the notches for the bolts. However, does the position of the whole assembly when fitted matter?

Ahh ok, all makes sense now Got out there the other day with the WD40 and my little wire brush. Hopefully when I get enough time to do this, the TREs will budge with minimun effort! Probably worth changing the clamps while I'm at as they're a little crusty. I couldn't detect any play in the ball joints so I guess there's no benefit in replacing them at the same time?

Thanks for the replies guys. But, can anyone tell me why there is a recommended length for the drag link? I assume the recommended track rod length should give the correct tracking (near enough)?

Good morning everyone! Soon I will be replacing my steering UJs, and as the front tyres are wearing unevenly I plan to check/adjust the tracking at the same time. I have had a read of the topic below, but I am a little confused/unsure so I'm seeking clarification! http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=26532 From this topic and other information I've found there seems to be lots of ways to do this. Also, it seems that different people use different terms to describe some of the componants. Add the fact I have little experience working on the steering system, leaves me very confused! Anyhow this is how I plan to check/adjust the tracking: Centralise the steering box/steering wheel. Check N/S wheel allignment using the string method, if adjustment is needed extend or shorten the steering drag link (part 9 in attachment) Now check the O/S wheel, if adjustment is needed extend or shorten the track bar (part 7 in attachment). Would this be a satisfactory way of checking adjusting the tracking? Any comments/suggestions most welcome!

Slightly off topic but this thread has given me an idea. How about a section on this site for recommended garages/repairs in each part of the country? I'm sure lots of people would find it useful, would also be good to know of the places to avoid!

Just an idea, could you not get yourself a second hand pair of calipers and overhaul them with the new pistons. Then it'll be just a case of swapping them over - less down time for your truck. Plus you'll have a set of spare (kanackered?) calipers!

Thanks for your reply Western. Although my idea is to get a replacement and swap it over if and when needed. My 90 is a daily driver and taking the rad out and giving it to someone for a few days wouldn't be ideal. Cheers.

The radiator on my 90 developed a leak from the radiator, which has been fixed (for now) by Barr's Stop Leak. I'm not counting on this to be a permanant fix so am in the process of scouring Ebay etc looking for a replacement rad. Does anyone know if the rad in my wagon is the same as other early 90s/110s fitted with diesel engines? Basically, am I exclusively looking for a rad out a V8, or is there an alternative?

12 months ago when I replaced the body cappings on my wagon, there was a lot of the bubbling you speak of, on the top of the rear wings. The approach I took was this: Firstly I rubbed the areas down with 80 grit emery cloth, until I had nice shiney metal. To 'kill off' and inhibit future oxidation I then used wire wool and a phosphoric acid based treatment such as Jenolite. Next up was some no name Etch primer off E-blag (I have however heard good things about Acid 8 etch primer by Upol I believe). Then I whacked some red oxide primer on top, only because it was red and my wagon is red! I plan to paint the whole vehicle one day, just so many other things to do! Hence the use of such an aggressive abrasive and the rough finish! I have very little experience with paint and aluminium corrosion/oxidation, but this is what I did and after 12 months there's no sign of the oxidation returning.

Something to consider because you haven't got a garage is possibly a couple of small, cheap gazebos, one over the front and one over the rear of the landy. You could then use a tarp between them to complete a temporary shelter?

Used them once, about a couple of years ago - everything was spot on...

Might be of interest: http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk/ HTH - a lot of info there... Mark