Snagger

They're only tightened to 60'lb, which isn't a huge amount for a bolt that size, and the thread lock should protect the threads from rusting, so they should be in good enough condition for re-use. I consider myself mildly paranoid, but I re-use my calliper bolts with a fresh drop of thread lock.

I think it was the earlier SII Station Wagons and Truck Cabs, with their body coloured roofs, that had body coloured wheels. As far as I know, SIIAs, like the earlier rag tops and hard tops, had Limestone wheels because they got Limestone roof tops, like the later SIIIs.

Just a suggestion - one of you post a photo or send the other a photo by text (having exchanged phone numbers by PM) to double check the part is the same, just in case I gave you a bum steer! I wouldn't want it on my conscience that someone parted with cash for a part that was useless to them because I got it wrong.

Someone is breaking a P38 on the RR section, and I think thy share the same cassette. He's just asked how to get the steering wheel off, so it looks like the cassette should be available immediately.

In that case, try to have the steering straight and when you remove the cassette, tape it up well - it's the weakest part in the SRS system and is common to the 300Tdi DI, the DII, soft dash RRC and the P38. There was someone on the Discovery section with an SRS wiring fault that I suggested is likely to be this part, and he was asking where he could get one; might be worth you taking a look and getting in touch!

If you mean you want to remove the SRS airbag, then officially it's a professional garage job, but unofficially, disconnect the battery (stops any chance of accidentally triggering the explosives in the airbag), undo the two bolts in the back face of the steering wheel (six-point star drive or maybe just allen key - I can't remember) and then ease the airbag out, disconnecting the wiring as it comes. Then once the airbag is clear and ideally with the steering wheel in the straight ahead position or marked for alignment on reassembly, undo the centre nut and carefully guide the horn, SRS and any stereo/cruise control wiring through the slots as the wheel comes back. make absolutely sure you don't rotate the SCS wiring cassette (the annular plastic unit immediately behind the steering wheel) as doing so will probably damage the extremely delicate internal wiring - if you have to remove the cassette for any reason, then tape the two halves together as soon as you can (ideally before removal) to prevent accidental turning. Do not reconnect the battery until the airbag is refitted as it will trigger a fault in the SRS ECU, bringing on the dash light, which can only be cleared with diagostics tools.

It's usually due to the red lever's rubber boot. Dirt inside the cover plate with the tubular fingers can cause trouble just like Jeremy said. The other causes are a misaligned selector shaft, set such that the detent groove is not pointing straight up so the ball won't engage properly in it, a weak detent spring (under the brass plug on the low side of the top of the case) or a very worn high range gear on the output shaft that is failing to grip the splines in its hub.

I can well understand insurer's needs to balance risks and load premiums for mods - when we consider engine swaps, suspension lifts, performance tweaks, adding seats and so on, it makes sense. When you expand it wider to factor in chavs with Saxos lowered by chopping the springs, with illegal lighting, cherry bomb exhausts, silly spoilers and the like, then you almost pity their insurers. But having double standards over mere accessories, based on whether they were fitted (in identical fashion) before or after first registration is not logical. People who fit mild accessories tend to have an interest in their cars, and so will look after them better, reducing both accident and theft risk. With modifications, risk probably is increased as the mods tend to be used for things like racing, off roading or sportier driving, or used for things like carrying more passengers and heavier or unusual loads. What is irritating is the insurers' inability to see the difference between a mod and an accessory.

I understand the logic behind specification differences affecting policies. What is peeing me off is that they say that if the snorkel was factory fitted off the options list, it would be fine, but fitting the same equipment to the same spec vehicle after it has left the factory is not permissable. They are saying that two identical cars can have two different verdicts, regardless of the driver, use and circumstances. It is totally inconsistent and unreasonable, and shows their intransigence and stupidity.

Bad dampers can cause the trouble you have, but as I already said the bushes are shot, with clear signs or perishing, splits, wear and distortion. They are not just "up for renewal", they are in a bad way. Replacing all the bushes on the radius arms, trailing arms and panhard rod will sort the fault out, and replacing the damper bushes should be done along with the dampers themselves.

I'll try the Salisbury branch next week then, but the woman at the Woking branch did refer it to another specialist branch (Staines, I think), so I'm not hopeful. It's odd - 9 years ncd, 7000 mile limit, two drivers only, both over 40, kept on the drive in a good neighbourhood, no convictions or points, no medical issues and just one small knock over three years ago...

Lancaster wanted about £600, A-plan £530 and Academy £540, so Flux are still the best of those who will cover it. I'm going to email the ombudsman and ask for clarification on whether a piece of factory fitted optional extras constitutes a mod or an accessory, and if it is an accessory as I believe, the Tesco can lump it. I find it hard to believe a policy would be voided by fitting such an accessory.

I use a kettle of very warm (just a bit hotter than comfortable to leave your fingers in) to pour over the strip for removal, and then imerse the strip for a couple of minutes in the water before assembly - it makes it very malleable. You wouldn't want to pour such warm water on a freezing day onto the mirror for disassembly - you'd need to do a tepid pour first to reduce the thermal shock on the glass.

Ah, good. I'll give Academy and A-Plan a call tomorrow. I won't hold my breath, but it's only a few pence to make the call.

Classic policy is the kicker there, Mark. You can't get such policies for 3 year old cars, though.

I use Flux for the other vehicles and they were the cheapest of those who'd accept the snorkel at £505. All the others suggested above were dearer, with NFU asking a bit over £660. I'd understand if it was an engine, suspension or structural change, but a little plastic air pipe? So, the snorkel can't be fitted - it's just not worth another £160 a year on insurance, unless someone offers me £150 for it (a little less than the new price, but would allow me to get the heated screen for the 109 which Flux let me do anything with with no further premium increases). We'll keep it in its box in the garage rafters and if we get a reasonable quote come renewal time from someone who'll accept it, then it can be fitted at that point. It is frustrating, though - Helena really likes the looks with a Safari snorkel, and I bought it for her for Christmas...I like Nige's comment, but you know how humourless these companies are - they'd probably void my policy if I took the pee out of them like that!

Told them that, and even stressed that it's for cosmetic purposes and that the 90 would not be used off road anyway - still not interested!

Sorry, somehow I got mixed up and thought you had the Audi engine and a Rover V8 too - don't know why. As far as the Audi engine goes, I'd get rid: too difficult and too expensive - the insurance alone would be a nightmare. But a good 4.2 Rover V8....

Series wiring would really make them sluggish. Parallel wiring should make them vastly more effective.

EJ, I'm not trying to taunt you, I'm just getting bored of clearing the screen manually, then having it freeze up in fog within 30 seconds! The heated mirrors work a treat, and ironically my wife's new 90 has a wonderful heated screen but not the mirrors, so will be getting the mod soon. Does anyone have an contacts so we could organise a forum group buy?

I'd settle for something built to last a decade...

You have adopted the logical stance, but as a toy, logic doesn't need to prevail. A v8 probably won't give any better performance than the TD5 unless highly tuned and tweaked, but somehow is a more joyous engine, while the TD5, as well as it pulls, is always going to feel tractor-like. There's no right or wrong answer, and a TD5 will be better financially if the vehicle does end up getting used often, but if you do just use it for small journeys for fun, a V8 will put a bigger smile on your face, and that is the while point of toys. If it's going to be for fun, fit what you feel most excited by, not what your head tells you to fit!

I phoned Tesco insurance today to find out if our 90's premium would be affected by fitting a snorkel. They said they would not cover the vehicle at all, even when I explained that it has absolutely no effect on performance, handling, visibility or safety, and that LR fit them in the factory on new vehicles if you tick the box on the options list, making it not a modification. They seem to assume that fitting a snorkel means that you intended to do beach landings every weekend. Only specialist insurers were interested, but because the car is only three years old, it can't go on a classic policy. SO, the cheapest quote I could get was Flux, who already cover my 109 and RRC, who wanted £505. The Tesco premium is only £337, and there were a few cheaper than that, though I was too wary to use the unknown brands. It's incredibly frustrating that the main insurers can't see the logic that a snorkel does not constitute a mod because it's a factory option, and that it should have no effect on the policy because it has no affect on vehicle risk. Morons! I'm hoping that NFU come back with something sensible tomorrow, otherwise I'll have to sell the snorkel we bought on unused. At least I hadn't started fitting it.

I just got our 2009 90 waxed at Rustmaster yesterday. I had though the underside looked pretty reasonable for a Defender until the steam clean was complete - half the rear axle and about 20% of the rear chassis brackets were paint-free and surface rusted, and of course I have had to do something about the corrosion on the lower grille and windscreen brackets, which are only part painted by LR. LR's attitude to the Defender and their owners is dire. They don't have to redesign the vehicle or replace it to have a real seller - Defender sales are low because they have a dreadful reputation for quality, and at well over £30k for a new 90, and the thick end of £40k to a 110 station wagon XS, there is no excuse for corrosion appearing on show room examples. I have just had to realign the front wings and trims because LR can't build them straight and also had a game of hunt the loose bolt when a nut fell of from behind the interior trim - it turned out to be from the bracket which secures the hard top to the tub capping, and the corresponding nut on the other side was loose too. Most of us don't want DC100s or other more complex replacements, we just want Defenders to be built correctly, and that includes a proper paint and corrosion resistance scheme. It's interesting to read that the performance differences seem small. LR claim the exact same torque and BHP from both versions, but that doesn't seem credible. It's also nice to know what that little noise on shut-down is!

Never mind - 18A, £200 from Devon 4x4 and £154 incl from here: http://www.heatedwindscreen.com/acatalog/land-rover-heated-windscreens.html (doesn't mention delivery, which is free with Devon).