Defender

It is an option to buy a donkey engine but as I've always fancied trying a hydraulic winch on my truck I thought it may be an idea to combine the two. Interesting that atractor only pushes out 35 LPM I thought they were way more but as you've probably read the thread I've admitted that I was perhaps allot of with my original figure. From what I can gather the crank drive option is easy on a 200TDI but not a 300. Having looked under there again last night there is only about 4 inches between the rad and the engine block which leaves hardly any room to mount anything, I even looked to see if I could graft a gear or another pulley onto the end of the crank but there is very little clearance between the pulley and the fan (Yes I know I could go electric but went back to the viscous for reliablity after a few issues with Kenlowe units). I even wondered if I could stick a very small shaft on the crank and send it out the front under the rad, but I think this may be too vulnerable for off roading and will create a whole new list of problems for winch mounting. I could use a different rad as you say so maybe I'll look into this a bit more thanks for your help. This again is an option but I think the capacity of the onboard air is way above a twin T-Max which is why I'd like to keep it if possible. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- My intention of starting this thread was not to frustrate people and I apologise if I have. I merely asked if anyone had come up with a different idea for hydraulic pump mountings, hydraulic power seems more popular these days so I just wondered if there had been any alternatives made to anything already on the market. I can change my truck and it would make my life allot easier if I did but I wanted to investigate all avenues before doing so. There has been some good ideas which I will look into further so thanks for your help so far and apologies to anyone frustrated.

I was told these things are amazing and that they push out that much air you can run air tools without the need for a tank! Always fancied one but they were ridiculous money when I was looking for one, have you got any pics of where it's installed in your truck? I always thought they looked huge and couldn't get my head around where it could be mounted easily.

Thats very interesting thanks for that. I arrived at the figure of 60LPM as most suppliers seem to quote pump sizes of 25cc to 55cc to bolt onto the PTO units / Crank driven which seem to give this kind of output. Having checked the specs of an 9,000Ib Warn winch it requires a flow rate of 45LPM so maybe 60 is too much! I would have thought that yyou would need more than 2 tons of splitting power but at least I have some calcs to work with and some more investigation so thanks for your help its much appreciated.

Yes thanks Steve - One of those started the pickle I'm in now with a ruptured disc hence why I want a machine to do it Thanks to everyone for the replies it looks like I either need to remove the rad or go with the PTO option not quite what I was hoping for but hey if this is the best way then so be it. Next question who knows about cc and flow rates? To get 60 to 70 LPM what sort of pump will I need on the PTO unit?

Here are some pics of a crank driven one: Think these are from the forum somewhere so apologies to the owner just using your pic as an examle:

Twin alternator mount sounds interesting, does that mean I could have the air con pump and hydraulic pump side by side? The PAS pump is just too low a flow rate to run a log splitter I think from memory it only supplies about 10 litres per minute and I need about 60ish. I have seen some pics of crank driven systems but they seem to stick out quite a bit and would foul the rad or at least they would seem to on a 300TDI Defender, I know the 200TDI sits allot further back so maybe its not a problem here.

Because I would like to leave that space free for an Underdrive in the future

I am running a Denso on a 300TDI Defender and its been there for two years without any issues - admittedly I do only use it for airing up the tyres but I do run 35" tyres at 2 psi so it has allot of work to do pumping up all 4 to 30psi. I use an oiler from a compressor (Clark job) set to max lubrication so it really sends some lube through the air con pump, it is filled with air con lubricant supplied by local re-gas agent (This could be the PAG 46 stuff) and I then remove the oil with a filter at the tank end. I run the compressor with the oiler until the air tank is full then I change a valve over to disconnect the oiler and draw air from the open to air up all 4 tyres, so I only use the oiler at the beginning then I disconnect it. The oiler causes a restriction so it actually works better without it but I wanted the pump to last a while so decided to lubricate the pump manually. I have heard lots of people do run them without any type of lubrication and they do seem to last a few years I was just hoping mine might last a little longer. The ideal solution would be as most people have said is an small inline oiler that drip feeds the compressor but doesn't cause the restriction that my full blown oiler does. I copied the idea off the forum from the links posted by western although obvioulsy used the Denso compressor I then bought a small 6 litre air compressor from a DIY store and took the motor and pump off and connected this to the feed from the air con compressor wired the switch to the electric clutch and I have to say it works brilliantly!!!!!! I wasn't quite prepared for how much air it actually pumps out I really don't think you will be dissapointed. I'm sure if I fitted a bigger tank it would easily run air tools.

Hello All, Just wondering if anyone has any trick ideas for hydraulic pump mountings on a 300TDI Defender 90, I'd like to power a log splitter over the winter and maybe a winch in the back if the mood takes. I have an air con pump for the onboard air system which I don't particularly want to get rid of, I can't use the transfer box PTO option and there's not enough room to drive it off the crank unless I move the rad to the back, again which I don't want to do particularly. So as you can see I have as slight issue so thought I'd open it up to the brain of the forum and see what neat ideas people have used or can come up with? I can change things obviously by removing the air con pump but as I say I don't particularly want to, I want to try and get round this problem without changing my truck as it is if possible so any help please would be appreciated. Thanks,

Many thanks to Jimyd that was exactly the thing I was looking for many thanks. Many thanks to Mickeyw for the photo's, it gives me a pretty good idea of whats needed and a rough idea how it works. Thats looks a pretty awesome vehicle whats it going to be when it's finished? Thanks, Pete

This is a long story so apologies but this was my experience: I've had this same problem, originally my vehicle was insured with Firebond who agreed to insure the vehicle and aproved accessories as long as I provided photographic evidence. My vehicle was under a certain value so I did not need to provide a third party valuation report but this was an option should the value have been higher. They were exceptionally helpful and I explained that the accessories were off road related and that upon claiming I would want enough money back to build it again exactly as it was should the worst happen using a similar age vehicle. I even said it had to be an agreed value because if I wanted to buy an 8274 for example the value of it would not have changed if I need to replace it by buying a new one if my vehicle/winch was written off. All hunky dorey not a problem sir was the response and I was duly issued with a certificate of guarunteed value all accessories to be replaced new, the vehicle was included in this certificate but as I understood it this would depreciate as it would on a normal policy and I would only receive market value, seems pretty fair to me. Here begins the problem - Firebond were taken over by Footman James and they do not provide the same policy/level of cover. They don't have an issue with the modifications but they will not reimburse me for the accessories if the vehicle is written off so I'm back to just getting afew grand for a 95 Defender. The only option that I thought of afterwards was perhaps I should have added the buy back option of my own vehicle from the insurance company so I can remove any accessories that survived myself......maybe this would be an option for you if you can't find something suitable? They have however said that next year my vehicle will be acceptable to be insured as a classic vehicle (Yours should be now judging by the age) which I can then have an agreed value policy.......I cannot comment any further on whether this will cover accessories or not a I was so annoyed by this point that no agreed value was available to me I thought I'd research it at a later date when I'd calmed down...........this thread has reminded me so I may start digging around in the next few weeks and see what I can find, would you also please post if you manage to sort the problem. I do have to say that although Footman james changed the policy (It probably came through the post and I didn't read it properly and binned it 'MY OWN FAULT I KNOW') they have been very helpful to me and it will be my first port of call when researching this, just didn't want anyone to think they are rubbish even thougfh they couldn't solve the problem they were still helpful. Oh, I think I also have to say I have no association with this company for forum rules.

Thats superb thanks for posting some pics very interesting indeed! And I also wish good luck in your new roll...you certainly seem to be enjoying it so far so well done for taking the plunge.

The reason for my question is Land Rover brakes are as I'm sure you will all agree are not the best in the world and when towing heavy plant equipment the extra assistance of air brakes would be a major benefit particularly in hilly areas such as Wales where the brakes are working extra hard. Even if the load isn't 4000kg I just thought it would be a good advantage over the over run brakes. Along the same lines I was also toying with the idea of building a towable spec lift with air brakes for towing something heavy where the stranded vehicle offers no braking assistance at all. Thanks, Pete

Thanks for all the replies. I have the air supply and tanks already, what I'm not sure about is how when I press the brake pedal what is needed to send the air through the coupling to the trailer brakes...presumably this also needs to be able to know how much brake pressure I am applying so as not to lock the wheels on the trailer the instant I put my foot on the pedal. Mickeyw - If you could help further, particularly with the above that would be appreciated greatly. Western - Do you think Exmoor beast would mind a PM asking a few questions or could you perhaps prod him to this thread? And if anyone has any air braking trailer kit for a Defender sale that they might be willing to part with please PM me. Thanks, Pete

Thanks for your replies. Fridge thats an awesome website! Now all I need to do is win the lottery and buy a vast expance of woodland to play Miserableoldgit I agree the 127/130 would be an easier option but there is a bizarre part of me that wants the 101 mini truck experience once in my life. Nicks90 thats an excellent idea and quite easy/cheap to acheive and something I'll defintely look into further once the 101 is out of my system, the best part is presumably you could make the caravan removable and move yours and your mates truck to local events or help other stricken competitors out in their hour of need....a top idea and one I will definately consider. I would still like some interior photos of your 101 campers for some ideas if possible. Pete

Hi All, Does anyone have the internal dimensions of a 101 ambulance? I'm interested in looking at camper conversions and I'm wondering what will fit comfortably but still be useable. I only really need it to sleep two people (Double bed) and two large dogs in the floor space, but would like a toilet/bathroom/shower and a dining/cooking area as well. In fact would anyone mind posting up photos of what you've managed to squeeze into your interiors? I'm slightly dreaming now but my ideal would be a 101 camper fully kitted out for weekends away with a spec lift on the back so I can tow my motor to events and a lean to workshop/awning that we can fold out to work on the truck if the weather turns nasty. As I say this is nothing but a dream as I should image that this would be the thick end of £30k to build so I'm just after ideas for the interior of a camper in a 101 at the minute........currently using a trailer tent which is superb with all the space and hot water etc but have to drive my motor to events towing it whereas I'd like the comforts of the trailer tent but be able to tow my motor in case I break it. Thanks, Pete

Hi All, Does anyone know how involved it is to fit an air braking system to a Defender? What parts are needed? And any legal implications? Thanks, Pete

Thanks for the reply Steve, that helps allot. So does anyone on the forum know someone who offers this service and ow much it costs? Thanks, Pete

Hello, I was wondering if anyone can help with what I need to do to put a 4 pin diff out of a P38 into a Defender axle? Is it a case of just swapping the centre out of the P38 into a Defender diff or is it slightly more involved? Thanks, Pete

Thanks for all the replies much appreciated. Pete

Hello All, Right I've got lots of questions about brakes and swivels on my Defender 90 300 TDI so I thought who better to ask than a bunch of experts, so in no particular order here we go: 1. If I use my truck off road in heavy mud is fitting vented discs a bad idea? I use my truck for towing and it has 35" tires so I though that vented might be a beneficial upgrade but what I'm worried about is the discs filling with mud, not being easy to clean and then causing more problems......is this likely should I stick with solid one's. Interested to hear your views. 2. Swivel gaitors - Are these a good idea? I thought they were but having stripped a swivel to reseal it I found a tiny hole that has been letting mud into the swivel, although not really bad it does appear that this has caused the swivel to rust slightly and get pitted. I suppose my question is has this caused a bigger problem than if they had not been fitted? 3. Is there any difference between the swivels that are black/grey in colour and the chrome shiny one's....and where is the best place to buy? Should I replace both sides at the same time? Nearly there now..... 4. Upon removing the plasticy rubber cover on the front drive member the circlip was bent although it had tried to pull it into the hub.......now this just doesn't seem normal to me but I'm struggling with why this has happened. There was a spacer fitted after the circlip that is about a centimetre wide (Roughly) but I'm wondering if there should be more? I'm assuming the shaft should be able to slide in and out and not be solid? Any help on this one would be appreciated. Thanks, Pete

Carl that looks like the exact thing...thank you very much I'll give them a try. Pete

Hi All, Does anyone know where I can get some stainless versions of these or the original replacements? These are self gripping threaded inserts from the inside of the beadlocks. I would like to try and replace them with stainless versions so they don't rust if at all possible so any help would be much appreciated. I know that Redpath tyres are dealers for Rockathon wheels but they were no help when I phoned and I don't know who else to try. Also does anyone have any info, pics and prices of John Sales double beadlocks? Thanks, Pete

Heated seat kit for my 90 cause the heaters useless!!!!!!!!

You could always try finding someone who sells the rubber matting that goes in stables for horses. They can cut it to size and it's usually pretty cheap.....I'm not sure how thin it goes but you could always cut it into the right sized panels and use silicone to stick the panels to the seat boxes.