o_teunico

I really like the 1ink, but I think that a 3 link made using the standard radius arms will be easier to make road legal.

Triangulated 4link will have the same bump steer problem as the A frame. How Auverland and URO solved it is a real mistery for me.

That idea appeals me more. I wouldn´t worry about some extra kg if that is gonna give me peace of mind. In fact QT make their (lower) 3rd link in radious arm fashion.

Today I have measured Disco´s stock setup. It has been measured with just a tape. It was night, so don´t expect too much accuracy. Forgot to measure distance between radious arms and trailing arms´ mounts on chassis, but should be about 100cm (40") if the wheelbase has to be 100". As you see, front ear of the radious arm and rear trailing arms´mounts at rear axleare at the same height. Rear A frame is not straight, but chassis and axle mounts are pararell to ground. Panhard bar is nearly flat (chassis side just 20mm higher). Panhard bar lenght is 820mm. Panhard mount at front axle is in line with raious and trailing arms´ mounts at chassis.

Will check Pirate4x4. Are they strong enough? I have allways Heard that, when working in compression, they tend to bend.

Have found this at a brazilian fórum. Is this the correct geometry for a 3Link?

Is your 3rd link pararell to the other two trailing arms?

He could even help the Project with part of the 8 million Eur. he recives per year, taken from our taxes. I have been viewing some YouTube videos about bump steer...quite scary. A frame idea abandoned. Simon, any pictures of that homemade 3Link? What about a farm tractor 3rd link? Main advantage: castor will be adjustable.

There are some unpaved tracks with bumps and corners, with one or two farm tractors per day beeing all the trafic. Thanks! Main question for building a bump steer free 3Link with Land Rover parts is: will half an A frame be strong enough for the job?

Any detailed pics of the 3link and testings?

Today I have visited some breakers, and I have obtained RRC switches. They are the same as used in the Discovery, but with a square surface. Beeing that surface smaller than those on the Disco means more switches in same space. Unfortunatelly the icon is made melting black over white plastic and is not posible to dismantle it without damaging the switch, and they certainly don´t have a factory finish after conversión. If square switches are needed, cutting the rounded edge of a Discovery switch is the way to follow.

Front ear will be used. Only a real life test will show if rear one needs removal or not. Just take a look at URO´s axle. That´sthe setup I want to replicate. In a few months, once I have the real Discovery in my hands, I will like to make some tests using parts, at zero cost, taken from my bros Disco.

This is how I could make some test: -Weld an A frame bracket to centre of front axle -Fabricate and bolt a front crossmember. -Join axle and crossmember with an A frame -Fit Si´s x-ball. -Test standard vs "half" A frame + panhard (that is, a three link) vs no panhard and full A frame. Front radious rear pin unbolted on both cases. Front pis is located quite more less in the same place as rear axle´s trailing arm´s bolt. There is a karting circuit near home that I could hire for a pair of hours for propper and safe road/speed handling test. Best of all of this design is that it is absolutely reversible.

Will like to see the progress in that 1Link... Hopefully in a few months I will have my own Disco for experimenting.

After measuring bro´s Disco, it´s clear that there is not enough space for a rear facing 3rd upper link/ A frame. Rear axle A frame is about 60 cm long. A new crossmember, flish with chassis´ front legs will be in the correct position. As you said, clearance of the pedestal, when suspensión is compressed, with engine mount/block will be something to solve. What do you thinkabout this design?

That was our first option, but did not find anything suitable for this non greasable aftermarket unit. Yesterday recived an email. GKN is out of stok and, in two weeks they (Paddock) will send a Bailey Morris at same price.

Clearance with sump will not be a problem if the A frame is located in front of the axle, as seen in the Auverland. Bump and roll steering shouldent be worser than the Auverland or URO. Clearance with steering rod may be an issue. Will investigate the possibilities of adding an upper 3rd link, while maintaining the original position of the radious arms (obviously with just one pin at the axle end).

Extra money is needed for full locker. ATB seems to be more halfshaft/CV friendly and pulse braking solves the ETC abscense.

After Reading the thread about 4 Link suspensión my brain has been, again, thinking about a flexier front suspensión. There are various options. In the past we have been talking about 1Link, 3Link, x-link... I still think that replacing the panhard bar with an "A" frame, as used at rear axle, and using only one pin at the radious arms will be the easiest/cheapest way. Has anyone seen this beeing done for real before? The only two vehicles I know that have used this system are the french Auverland A3 and the galician URO VAM-TL (this one was the opting, alog with Wolf and Santana Aníbal-PS10, for beeing the new light 4x4 for the spanish army).

Is curious to see that ATB+ARB works OK in Rovers, but not in Nissans (GU/GQ). I joined during a time a Nissan fórum (don´t worry, it was just to learn something about their axles and think a bit about an axle swap for a Landy). Terrano´s rear LSD can be fitted to front GU/GQ axle, but you cannot go over curves, just follow a straight line!

Oh yes, I like it! Nice invention. I agree: better with a V8! Bill, could you please pack and send that candidate in time for our elections?

Thanks for sharing your experiences! It´s quite probable that we will follow the ARB+ATB route.

Yes, I know they are not 100% lock. Have you experienced them?

Well, title says it all. Both the Disco I´m going to buy and a friend´s one are equipped with a rear ARB and open (standard) front diff. How will it behave if a front ATB/Truetrac helical gear type self locking diff is fitted? I guess no problems off-road, but what about road handling with the rear diff "open" and the front locking itself automatically?

245,8Kg http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=83176&page=1