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o_teunico

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Everything posted by o_teunico

  1. It will look like this, with 21 tooth constant pinion for low 0.83 5th. 5th pinions will be located in place or 3rd gear ones. Main casing will be shortned. 5th housing, now containing only the oil pump, will be also shortned. LT77´s output shaft or Mitsu constant pinion shaft (or both) will be moddified to match one each other ,
  2. A Salisbury will certainly work better tan Rover units, specially when beeing reversed. Here some nice videos comparing internally both LT77 and R380 Another crazy idea...If I build an overdrive out of a LR gearbox, I will have lots of non used internals. Has anybody tried before adapting some sincromesh to the LT230?
  3. The 40 speed gearbox could be formed using a Defender LT77. I have been looking at vatious gearboces' ratios and 30% seems to be the average ratio lift when jumping one gear. LT77, according to the data at TeriAnn's page, has a 5th overdrive with just a 17%. That will make an excellent splitter, as seen in HGVs. It's short bellhousing will bolt directly to the Tdi and help with overall gearbox length. 40 speeds are quite a lot, but you can think of it as a 5 speed with a stadard low ratio, an overdrive and a crawler gear. The overdrive-splitter could be actioned via a switch in gearknob and a p38 RR lowbox actuator.
  4. Bill, your overdrive arrangement is extremly well designed. Unlike other types that bolt to PTO cover, it´s located between engine and main box, thus not reciving too much torque. A spanish company called "Ilerteca" developed a similar overdrive, but using sun gears, in the mid 90´s. It was succesfully tested by "Lleida Tracció" team in the deserts of Morroco. Bill Overdrive + Mitsu box + LT230 will make a wonderfull 40 speed box!
  5. What about flywheel cover? After seeing this pictures it seems that theyr locating points are the same. That´s good for me because I could use a 200 spare engine as a test mule for the Mitsubishi gearbox adaptor and then transfer it to the running 300 in just one weekend.
  6. Mmmmm...6x6! I know that a 6x6 is not always better tan a 4x4, but my heart says the opposite!
  7. Same box for various applications. That makes sense. Thanks.
  8. I have a friend with a 300 Disco. I will take a tape next time and compare it with my bros 200. If gearboxes are same length, as propshaft, only answer is that the 300 is longer than the 200.
  9. Hi all, I have seen that the end of the main box output shaft is tappered, but neither in the workshop manual or in the thread covering LT230 swap in this forum says anything about a nut locating the input gear. Why?
  10. Hi all! Does anyone know how much will cost a rear short end for LT230 from Rakeway? A guy from another forum has been mailing and phoning them this days with no answer. Is out there any other trader selling rakeway products?
  11. Hi all! I have came to the conclusión that the 200 Tdi Discovery that my brother gave me (rotten and with broken engine) is beyond repair. I will buy my own Discovery. Secondhand late 200 and early 300 are in the same price range. The preparation of the 300 will be cheaper, because I save the 10 to 24 spline conversion (I could use a 200 and 10 spline lockers and HD shafts, but they are more expensive than 24 spline ones). In the 300 I can fit a EGR blanking kit but, what about electronics? A friend bought the "spider" bypass loom AMR4956 for the immobilizer, but was unable to locate where to plug it (suposedly the connector is located at the back of the ICE). I have two spare 200Tdi engines. The big question is: can I fit the non-immobilizer injection pump from the 200 as a direct replacement for the 300 one? What about the injectors? That will create an absolutely electronic free 300. As some of you will know, one of my "vapour build" projects is a 20 speed Mitsibishi-Rover gearbox. The 300 is suposed to be located further front into the engine bay, something desirable when fitting a longer gearbox. I have tried to tell the 200 vs 300 engine location difference by looking to propshaft lengths, but they are the same. Seems that R380 is longer than LT77. How much? LT77 is 94cm long drum brake to belhousing/flywheel housing joint.
  12. I leave here the full-size white Disco to be used by other forum members as a base for their own creations. It´s a .jpg. I recommend you to save it as .bmp, as it will be easier to change colors. BMP was too big in size to be uploaded directly.
  13. Today I have been playing with Microsoft Paint to see what color scheme could I use for the Disco. I have narrowed it to three options. Red with White roof, as seen in Defenders Galician forest patrol look-a-like And my favourite one, UK Police look-a-like. Will look the part towing a Talgo train look-a-like caravan
  14. Vehicle PART NUMBER SPLINE COUNT MAJOR SPLINE DIA. C/L TO END "D" GROUND HUB DIA. "F" Seal Dia. UJOINT NOTES Mitsubishi DTSPT-2603-26S 25/26 1.156 5.9 1.558 2651-60 $48.06 Taken from http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/drivetrain/slip_yokes_transmission.html#Mitsubishi
  15. Interesting page involving LT230, spline matter and welding http://www.mez.co.uk/4l80e-1.html
  16. When I post a moddified picture and say that it has been "photoshopped", that´s not really true, because ALL (selfmade) pictures I have posted in this fórum have been made with Microsoft Paint. It´s extremly basic and easy to opérate. I really use nearly allways just "SELECT" "COPY-PASTE" "RESIZE" "TEXT" "COLOR" "ROTATE" and basic shapes (line, circle, square). Just seven "clicks" and job done! Maybe there is something similar from Apple. I don´t know how much torque an LT77 will handle, but the beefer R380 was named that way because it was "Rated to 380Nm" (that was a 4.6 V8´s max torque). 200Tdi´s 270Nm x2 = 540Nm = disaster for the gearbox! With a BIG wallet you can fit a bolt-on underdrive from Ashcroft. That could work and will make it more affordable as a DIY project. I have seen in the past series transfer gears welded with good results. There was a link at the forum and I even saved it to my computer, but have been unable to locate it. I was an extremly cute DIY high ratio Series transfercase thread. Pressed and welded splines, from pirate4x4 Sorry, all Mitsu pictures are from the WWW and I have no access to the real thing for spline count or measure. 1st gear in Mitsu box is arround 4 to 1 and low box ratio 1.9 to one.
  17. If length and shaft diametre permit, the best way of fabricating a Mitsu-Rover 20 speed box will be internally resplining the LT230 input gear to match the mitsu splined shaft. Input gear, unlike separate mitsu components, is easy and cheap to obtain. Mitsu gearbox looks long, but it´s bellhousing completly hides flywheel-clutch assembly. Engine flywheel housing is a simple flat plate, easy to adapt or fabricate to match the 200 Tdi. Mitsu flywheel, clutch and starter motor will be used. EDIT: Discovery LT77+LT230, drum brake to bellhousing/flywheel housing joint is 94cm long. LT230, drum brake to main/transfer box joint is 30cm long.
  18. This is the only way that I see for making a double LT230 Some extra chassis rails below original chassis will be welded for correct radius arm angles and +4" coils below chassis rails will provide the neede suspensión lift
  19. If I were able to join in some way the Mitsubishi "Easy Select" transfer box´s shaft to the one used in ZF4HP22+LT230 arrangement, then it will be a child´s play to make an adapltator plate for bolting an LT230 to the HI/LO casing. Fork´s retaining shafts will need cutting, but some kind of gear lever locking mechanism will be easy to fabricate. I once read about a malaysian Series at the Rainforest Challenge that used a leather strap in the "red" lever for preventing the car jumping out of gear. If the whole setup is made short enough, rear axle rotation+drop box could be avoided. EDIT: Bill, have you experienced fretting corrosión (as in LT77/LT230 input gear). Has been the resplined shaft been heat treated? I´m amazed with your creations.
  20. Some more About winches...spanish MoT´s vehicle moddification´s manual clearly says that the installation of a winch of any type is considered as a major moddification that must be approved. Previous ruling said that only winches used for recovery (or self recovery) needed approval. of course that everybody said that their winch was used only for pulling trees or rocks out of the trail, but never for recovery or self recovery
  21. Now that the "VikingWinch" has been banned by local regulations, that makes sense. I understand that some cutting/machining will be needed. I use both Microsoft Paint and Photoshop CS6 (Demo version). I simply start clicking all buttons to discover what they do. There are some photoshopped pictures that is really difficult to tell if they are real or not. That´s not my case. I just want to see in picture my ideas, even if it´s clear that it´s a photoshopped picture. Have a look at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Photoshop-I-love-you/291465070877182
  22. Engineering company has said NO to the "VikingWinch". Any winch can be approved as long as it has CE certificate , and a home made one will certainly not
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