o_teunico

I heard of a spanish Disco I that was fitted with a 3Link at front. After rolling over it twice, the owner used some straps and limited wheel travel to 70cm. This solved the rolling over tendency, but with coil/shock change the standard radius arms have a wheel travel of 65cm. In that case all the expense of the 3Link for just 2" more of wheel travel simply didn´t pay off. Disco II Watts linkage are cheap and easy to source at scrapyards. Same for A frames. Any pics of that setup?

Maybe importing something, instead of building, from USA to complete the "Force9" range will be adecuate for the little demand it will have (not many 6x6 arround there). Like Rockwells? There are 70mm shorter rear outputs for LT230. With it and the BW chain it will have same size as stock and no there will be no need for new propsahfts for axles 1 and 2.

Is this the one with 1Link?

I´m not registered, but sometimes have a look to pirate. What are the advantages of the 4 link arrangement? Any pics of Dave Lloyd´s or Nick "RogueVogue"´s?

Video only avalible for UK

Has anyone attempted to make at home a 3Link or One Link suspension arrangement in a coiler? Have read interesting stuff in http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=41311&hl=%2Bsuitable+%2Bjoint+%2Bfor+%2Blink+%2Bfront+%2Bsuspension and http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=81602 Any pics or experiences? Bill van Snorkel moved coils closer to the centre and, along with a 3 Link, obtained a great articulation. Could it be possible to move not only coils, but also "hockey sticks" inwards for better axle articulation? I was thinking in LH radius arm bracket beeing welded in the inner side of the RH chassis rail and vice versa (locating points in axle also beeing moved closer to centre). This way, with relocated/longer shock absorbers and the parts needed beeing alrerady in the car, it will be a cheap way of having great articulation. I undertand that vehicle will lean quite a lot, but some detachable anti-roll bars will solve it for road use.

I´m sorry for that, Bill

Back on topic, "vapour build" is certainly a good deffinition for the project. My brother has been saving money for a new MIG/MAG welder and is also looking for a good deal on a secondhand lathe. Now is up to him to develope a real "metal" prototype using his SANTANA and LR trailer. In this tread there are a lot of ideas. Now it´s time for testing and trial-error, but unfortunately I cannot ,at the moment, afford a "metal" build. When Dieseldog mentioned a suspended axle in post #15 that idea didn´t appealed me very much, but after 11 pages of discussion it will be the way to follow on a "metal build" for me. Seeing it in the Krupp Protze opened my eyes. Perfect car for my needs will be something with a five door Disco body, suspended mid-axle with full-size tyres, powered trailer and some kind of underdrive. If my brother starts a proto 6x6 I will post it in the vehicle build and specials forum.

Some years ago we found a SIII with one of those attached to a 220VAC generator. Both me and brother were students with no job then and we couldn´t afford it. I know also another lady that started similar project with me... Defender cufflinks Range Rover Sport TDV6 HSE for me and SEAT 1400 (ex-grandpa) for her. One of the gifts The label for the gifts (home brewed licour) was made with a LR cartoon sourced from the web.

Following Bill´s advice, I have traded the gasket money for some kornflakes with high quality box for making gaskets If we source a second ENV we will use Rover in trailer, for taking costs down.

Thaks Night Train! I have temporally putted aside the redneck electrobike, as I´m trying to finish the 1977 Roller caravan restoration http://www.forocamping.com/foro/post448547.html#p448547 before attempting any new short term project.

Hi all, I have been thinking that it could be a good idea to have a new subforum dealing with those parts from other makes/models that could suit our Landys. What does the LR4x4 comunity think about it? Just two examples: -Three bolt doughnut for rear diff/propshaft for Disco 300 is same as Ford Taurus (at least same as those Taurus that were marketed in Argentina) -Alternator for 2.25 series engines (at least in the Santana ones) can be directly replaced by a more powerfull (and with "w" connector for rpm-meter) one taken from a 1984 Ford Fiesta.

Have found money for gaskets and paint! Maybe we need to source another ENV diff for the trough drive. Dieseldog, any sketch of your build? It will be nice to see what other ideas are around there.

For a double diff setup I will need: Tools Grinder (have it 0 Eur.) Drill (have it 0 Eur.) Welder (have it 0 Eur.) Tapping set (have it 0 Eur.) Parts Rover diff (have it 0 Eur.) Studs for fixing rover diff to new tapped holes (have them 0 Eur.) Spare propshaft for adaptation to new length (have it 0 Eur.) Two Rover diff gaskets (Paddock 0.61 Eur. + VAT + p&p Paint In theory with some paint and less than 2 Eur. I could build it

This could help with electric drive idea http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/ Some time ago I tried to make an electric bike, but DIY electric car community wasn´t very impressed with the idea. http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/planning-derbi-bike-conversion-80236.html

Second diff, with just the pinion, will be bolted in place of the welded diff pan. How two pinions joined to just one crownwheel are adjusted is a real mystery for me. In the past this system has been extremly unreliable, due to CW overload. Today, with DIY diff pegging kit cheaply avalible this could be sorted, but again we have the very short propshaft problem. Enlarging 2nd to 3rd axle wheelbase from 40 to 60" and the use of short nose "Wolf" style diffs will certinly help with prop length issues. Dieseldog, I have been thinking about your hydraulic drive idea, and maybe a cheap hybrid machanical-hydraulic setup coul be arranged: an hydraulic pump runing from axle 2 connected to a motor in axle 3. Pump and engine will need to be correctly sized for 1:1 ratio.

I will prefer 4.7 for the Series V because they will give lower ratio overall. This way we could use the super-HD rear axle from the Cazorla Six cylinder we broke for spares (it looks like a ENV axle as used in One Tons) for the trailer. The easyest (and cheapest for me, because I have the spares) way of achieving 6x6 in, by design, the worst one. The double-faced diff trough-drive system, with a propshaft runing car diff to trailer diff will be extremly easy to create. Unfortunately the CW of car diff will be overloaded, propshaft will be too short for adecuate articulation and also will be extremly exposed. But ease of manufacture is there, and maybe for a simple test drive... The way Soren made the PTO for his viking winch is great, but another LT230 will be needed for the triler.

Oh, and there are no torque bars in parabolic setup

I have thought that I could use different size pulley combo for matching 3.54s to 4.7s. Hidraulics are extensively used in forestry trailers. No prop angles to worry about. Unfortunately I dont have access to cheap hidraulics to try it.

Yes, anti-roll bars were factory fitted. Just a bit of SANTANA history... Production started in 1959 with SII. SIIA continued in 1961, with own designs like the 1300 forward control and "Ligero" military lightweight. Series III didnt appear until 1973. Different improvements were made trough the years, like five point cranckshaft, up-down glass in doors. In 1982 the Series IIIA appeared. With it, Santana (Land-Rover Santana by then) entered the plastic era: roof(already used in SIII), inner wings, gearbox tunnel, dashboard (with one piece windscreen with no flaps), heater ... New techologies were introduced: 2.25 turbo diesel (75HP), parabolics, anti roll bars, disc brakes, power steering, five speed LT85+LT230R part time 4WD. In 1987 SANTANA (no more "Land Rover" in the company name) introduced both Seies IV and V. Chassis were those from series III and engines were 4 cil. petrol or diesel and straight six, also petrol or diesel. Series IV used narrow axles (disc in front), rover four speed gearbox and transfer, along with semi eliptic leafs. No station wagons on series IV. Series V were the station wagons. Appart from County Station Wagon bodies, they were improved with: parabolics, disc brakes, LT85, power steering, anti-roll bars and wide track axles. Model designation, some examples: 2.500GC: 2.500=engine capacity in c.c. (series V), G=gasolina(petrol), C=corto "short". 2.5DL: 2.5=engine capacity in litres (series IV), D=diesel, L=largo "long". There was never a SWB with six cylinder engine. Production of Land Rover related products was beeing made along with the production of Suzuki products(SJ-Samurai and Vitara). In 1991 production of Land Rover based vehicles ceased. In 2003 SANTANA introduced the ANIBAL (PS-10 for export). This vehicle could be considered as a Series VI. Iveco engine, ZF six speed gearbox and reworked chassis and body (still using leafs). In 2006 ANIBAL changed name to MASSIF and was marketed under IVECO brand name. In 2011 SANTANA MOTOR company dissapeared as such. Production line was NOT sold. In a near future it could be possible to see again the factory working. http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santana_Motor

It´s not that easy. The Series V has no PTO and it´s 3.54 diffs don´t match the 4.7 unit of the trailer. We have some spare 4.7 diffs for the car, but need to sort out the PTO problem. Cheapest and easiest way will be the pulley-belt in diff arrangement. I never heard about the Bushmaster, but now I have found it´s brochure and many other powered trailers´ pics at http://www.landroverclub.com.ar/viewtopic.php?t=108949&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=30&sid=96a338a12686b66b2f2b8649a784c29d

The 2500DC, known as series V, is basically a series III chsssis with parabolics, 2.5 n/a diesel, LT85+LT230 part time 4WD and a 90 County body.

The video. Picture was taken near 0:45

A picture I have taken from a youtube video, just to see some angles. A it can be seen, the angle "alfa" between red and orange lines will be the angle between car and trailer. "Beta" will be the propshaft angle, if it is a three piece one with two UJs. Since "beta" is the half of "alfa", two 30º UJs will give a 60º movement. In Haggluns BV206 propsahft is concentric with hitch and therefore doesn´t need any slipjoint. More distance between hitch and propshaft will mean longer slipjoint.

That Hagglund is awesome. But you don´t need such technology. Keep it simple, like farm tractors. You don¨t need concentric hitch-propshaft. Just a wide angle, long sleeve propshaft and rollers/chains to limit left-right movement. You could even fit diff-to-diff propshaft (maybe with 60" wheelbase for decent articulation).