o_teunico

Oh yes, a real 6x6 and not a "vapour build" like mine! Foxywan, it will be great to see your progress in the "special and moddified vehicles" subforum, as well as Bill´s resurrected 6x6

Welcome to the forum! Unfortunately cannot help. The only southamerican club I know is the one from argentina http://www.landroverclub.com.ar/ In fact, it was in their forum where we the spaniards that created http://www.clublandrovertt.org/ met back in 2000.

Yes, all those hardware hanging on the axle will be the only cons. Another cross link (homemade, see page 5). This time in a Rangie with Patrol axles. Again from Fench Pirate 4x4. http://pirate4x4.fr/showthread.php/2947-Un-Range-sauce-Bourbonnaise

Nice shelf. I made something similar in our Lancia Phedra MPV. I love that stone effect vinyl you have!

Interesting project!

This pic has been taken from pirate4x4(France)

XLink in action

Y60/Y61 axles look easy to adapt, are affordable (about 500 Eur each is spanish scrapyards), and are wider, meaning that they will allow extreme suspension lifts and still be road legal. It seems that Rover axle is not easy to convert to "XLink" (how should I spell that: "exs"link, "cross"link?) but there is a kit for the Nissan axle. Fit locking pin and it will behave like standard, take it out and have super long travel suspension. Just imagine a Disco MkI with front XLink on Y61 axle, rear XLink with HDJ80 rear axle with Discovery Series II trailing arms+Watts linkage. Change locking pins of both XLinks with dog clutches and you will have a refined road biased car that could be converted into a twisting machine by operating just two small levers. Add two sway bars from x-eng with more dog clutches in place of free wheeling hubs and it will be even better.

BAD NEWS! I have just recived an e-mail from the engineering company I contacted some time ago to see the possibilities of making the whole thing road legal. Apparently there has been another change in spanish regulatiuons and bodywork moddifications are much more restricted. Something as simple as a two door Rangie converted to pick-up/Ute will be nearly impossible (at least at a reasonable price) to make road legal. The perfect car for me will be a Discovery with rear engine, nearly no front or rear overhang and seven seats. Roughly a Land Rover Multipla! As said, law and regulation will make such a car nearly impossible to be road legal.

Maybe the easiest (but not cheapest) way of fitting big CVs wil be fitting modified stubs from Ashcroft. Shaft entering CV with bigger diameter means that CV´s wall will be thinner.

I allways heard that exhaust pipe brackets were the only difference, but have never seen a pair of them side by side to confirm that.

Beeing unemployed is not good, but has some advantages...like spare time for thinking about how to improve a Land Rover. This time I have been thinking about how could I move engine cooling and aircon radiators to the back of a bobbed Disco without loosing all the luggage space. In the 70´ PEGASO produced a new cab for their heavy weight range. It was a cab-over-engine or forward control type. Cab was fixed, not tilting, and there was no removable engine cover inside. Instead they created a hinged radiator that was used as a "door" for the engine compartment. Here some pictures I have taken from episode 1 of TV series from the early seventies "LOS CAMIONEROS" ("The truckers") My crazy idea is to use the PEGASO layout by removing the glass from the tailgate and place there the radiators. A panel will be added to tailgate to isolate radiators from cars interior. Will that work or some kind of lateral scoops will be neede to aid airflow? Other posibility is to place radiators flat in the roof. When moving radiators so far from engine, should the water pump need some kind of reinforcement?

No as there a balljoint the centre is free to rotate. Yes a polybush would be fine for a one link....but in my view a ball joint is better. Yes on the back of a l322 or 5 series there is a cir clip on the other side as it will see side loads in this configuration. I machined the lip of mine and just pressed them in to a sleeve ther will only really ever see compression or tension in a link never really side loads.

Yes, wrote some time ago to Dave about 10 spline halfshafts and he was very friendly

Problem is that I would like to know the exact work that needs to be done BEFORE buying anything. It would be quite dissapointing to recive the parts and discover, once you have disassembled the front axle, that they will not fit and machining work needs to be subcontracted or new stub axles bought. Any pictures of "before and after" from a Discovery 200 stub axle?

As many of you will know, the biggest CV joint made ever by Land Rover for a coiler vehicle is the AEU2522. Ashcroft in making HD CVs in both "small" direct replacement size and "big" AEU2522 size for Discoverys. They can provide modiffied stub axles for fitting "big" size CV to early Discoverys. Ashcroft says in it´s web that "This type can also be fitted to the Range Rover classic and the early Disco I's but you will need to make a small machining mod to the stub for clearance" So, the question is simple: what´s the machining that needs to be done to 200tdi Discovery´s stub axles? Need a lathe or can it be done with a grinder/Dremel? Changig to a suffix A axle or changing the whole stub axle assembly are not options.

Despite beeing bigger in size maybe Toyota ones use lesser material or has stress concentration points in it´s design. This is Rover´s AEU2522 What about 101 ones? I supose those will need bigger chrome balls.

Time for Toyota now... Has anyone experienced failures with Ashcroft´s CVs?

Nothing is really "unbreakable"

I once filled our series III Diesel with some sunflower cooking oil (about 10% mix with diesel). It worked OK.

Have been thinking about gearing...If we use the most different ratios avalible, 1:1 from early autobox rangies and 1.67:1 from N/A 90/110, we will have a rabbit/low and turttle/high different enough to be usable. Rabbit-High: 1.67 Rabbit-Low: 3.32 Turttle-High: 5.54 Turttle-Low: 11.02

I have found a pic at your web, and yes, you have centered rear diff. How about vibrations? It looks that you are still using a Rover offset t-box.

Bob, it will be great to see some feedback about your axles in the future, with those 38s. Are you running the rear, cetered diff, from the Y61?

Nissan Y61 CV Have no drawing for HDJ80 item, but data says outer diametre is 105mm Land Rover AEU2522 (suposed to be the beefer LR one) Why should I go Patrol if the Toyota is bigger? Why not use AEU2522 if it´s only 7mm smaller that Y61 unit?

Nice thread!