Greenmobile

Good luck with the trip, looks like it's cooling down again in time for your arrival!

I find the V8 and the 300Tdi start ok here in Sweden (with a single standard battery) down to around the high teens (minus). Below that, they need a bit of help, either garaged or a jump start pack. The battery heating option is a good one though, it's on my list, just not that near the top! From your options the third is the most attractive, the heated pad or wrap type are available easily from the States.

AT tyres are fine on new snow, but as you've found on hard packed snow/ice, it's another story. With studs being illegal on public roads in the UK, you're a bit limited when it comes to ice. A non-studded 'proper' winter tyre is the next best bet on ice or hard packed snow. Cooper Discoverer are popular here and I know quite a few who are really impressed by them.

I bought my ex YEB 110 from him 6 years ago. Very much what you see is what you get. I was after a mechanically sound 300 Tdi, not too bothered about the cosmetics, and with the very comprehensive service history that comes with an ex-utility, that's what I got. I would deal with him again if I was after something similar.

I must agree with the suggestions for changing to 'proper' winter tyres. Cost wise, you can only wear out one set at a time, so you're only forking extra for another set of rims. My sister also lives high in the Surrey Hills and drives an X5 and regularly has problems which wouldn't even register here. If you're determined to change the car then a 4x4 car variant would be best eg XC70, 4 motion VW/Audi or Beemer...oh hang on! Regards, Sweden (with 4 months a year driving on snow/ice roads in a 110 or....2WD V70, with winter tyres).

Great stuff and really well written! I was chunnering about my skinned knuckles from this afternoon, but they don't seem so bad all of a sudden...

Replaced the stop solenoid this afternoon, no difference, but I suppose it's one less possible. I hadn't considered a bad earth as a possible, which earths should I have on the 110? Out with the multimeter next then, standby for some very basic electrical questions!

I've just replaced the stop solenoid today, as it's a cheap possible fix, as advised in this thread, http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=59194 After it cuts out, the engine doesn't turn over at all, which makes me think that the problem is further back in the system?

Thanks for those, nothing extra in the battery box, so I suppose I can rule out that as a problem then? Back to to the drawing board....

So just to recap , the 110 started to cut out whilst driving and then refused to restart, dash lights on but not turning over at all. Wait for anywhere between 2 minutes to 2 hours and then it would restart as normal. I've replaced the ignition switch twice which seems to fix the problem, for a while, but then the symptoms above return. I'm guessing that the ignition switch is being damaged somehow, but I'm pretty stumped as to what to do next, any suggestions? Cheers, James

1996...Just a standard ignition key, so no immobiliser then?

My intermittent cutting out/not starting problem has returned, so I'm trying to rule out the obvious problems first...How can I tell if I have an immobiliser fitted? Cheers, James

Tyres make a huge difference!

Where did you read that snow tyres aren't good in the wet? Can't help with a comparison I'm afraid, but I used Toyo Snowprox for winter driving in both the UK and Sweden. Pretty good all round compromise tyre.

Well said that man! I had a non studded winter tyre on the Volvo in the UK, you could get around in most UK conditions. Here in Sweden I have a studded winter tyre on the Volvo and AT's on the 110. I think a big part of the problem in the UK (as well as unprepared drivers/vehicles) is traffic density, it only takes one muppet and then you're stuck in a queue.