disco_al
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Posts posted by disco_al
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if you go for a bearmach own brand snorkel, it will probably turn up as a safari one with the badge sanded off. got one for a mates defender a couple of months back - half the price, but exactly the same, apart from the aforementioned sanding marks, even the instructions were a photocopy of the safari ones.
i suspect they buy a bulk load, and remarket them
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When rebuilding a K series, always go for the MLS gasket - we sell 20+ a year of these sets, and we haven't had a single one fail. the original gasket is a flattened coke can with some orange goo dribbled onto it.
the headsave is designed to fit between the block and the gasket (i think it's that way round) to stop the cylinder liners from moving.
What make of gasket set is it?
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last year IIRC there was a guy in one of the LR comics that converted a 3 door. not sure how you would get around the rear doors on a 5 door though.
IIRC he reused the lower half of the tailgate as the tailgate for the pick up, and made a bulkhead using another tailgate (it may even have been a bulkhead out of a transit or something.
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this is a good one for anyone who has ordered a recon turbo for their 300tdi. i have now had two of these, and neither of them have come with the extension pieces for no's 1 & 4 exhaust ports
looking at the one that's still fitted, these actually come off the manifold and swap over - anyone got any ideas on how to remove them?
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have you got the correct battery on there??
i would say DO NOT DRIVE it if the battery has boiled dry, as you run the risk of it exploding....safest bet is to pop the alternator off and take it to somwhere that can test them properly, rather than just with a multimeter.
if it's boiled then it's usually because of overcharging. have the sides of the battery swelled at all?
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Distance would be an issue for me - especially travelling to Norfolk for a weekend. South Wales, Somerset - or anywhere along the M5 corridor would be fine, even the Welsh coast at a push.
Would love to do some proper laning and have a chuckle
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petrol or diesel?
if it's a diesel then i would imagine it has probably toasted the alternator, and possibly a couple of the big fuses in the engine bay - if it's a petrol, then it could be ECU fried etc etc etc.....
how old is the truck?
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I have had a thought (and am now sat down having a rest
)In a few months time, i will be embarking on the rebuild of a friends 90 from a galv chassis upwards. It's a 85 model, so odds are most of the bolts are going to be seized solid or missing completely, which made me have this particular thought....
If anyone has done, or is in the process of doing a rebuild, why not start a list in the tech archives of fastener sizes and quantities that have been used, as well as other useful consumables like rivets, self tappers etc etc, that way anyone else embarking on such a challenge has a rough idea of what bolts to get hold of, and also of how much they are likely to cost.....I know that it is possible to get hold of such a list by spending a few hours on the 'cat, but they don't always give the size, just a description.
An list of suppliers at the beginning (or end) would be a useful addition too - sort of a one stop rebuild your landrover shop.
Just one of those crazy friday afternoon ideas really......discuss
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track rod 1230mm. drag link 924mm both in rave.
cheers, that's what i was after. searched rave for ages and couldn't find it
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IIRC wasn't there one to Strata last year???
Would be interested in doing some soon, not had chance to play with the Disco since i got it - apart from repairing it - and would be good to put the off road bits to good use now that i've got some.
Has South Wales been done???
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I am sure i've seen this somewhere before, but cannot find it anywhere.....
I'm after the steering rod lengths for a 300 series Discovery. I initially thought they were in Rave, but have searched it all over, and cannot find it.
There are two lengths that can be used as a rough setting for the tracking, i think the one is 924mm for the drag link, but cannot remember the other one.....
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turbo's work using exhaust gas to power the blades, which then compresses air from the intake and forces it into the inlet manifold.
the oil supply comes in through the top of the turbo, and creates a "bearing" of sorts for the turbine to spin in - essentially a thin film of oil, rather than a proper bearing.
first thing to check would be the turbo hoses, as they can delaminate internally, causing a drop in performance. take the intercooler out, and give it a clean - usually involves removing it and filling it with brake cleaner, or some similar solvent, and leaving it to soak for a few hours.
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and had it on the 90 for ages before it fell apart
the sticker or the 90??
:ph34r: -
Sealey do a cordless grinder for about £85 plus vat, that uses li-ion batteries i think.
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looks like a nice solution - but the name is a bit close to a certain poly bush maker......
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My 94 Disco has the wonderful dimdip system fitted (golden resistor on the bulkhead above the turbo) and i have noticed that at times the headlights take a few seconds to get going.
I've had a quick search and not really found a definitive answer to the question "how do you remove the dim dip system?" - is it just a case of remove the unit, and bridge the wires together? or is there more required, such as altering the wiring to the wonderful MFU behind the dash??
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i'm liking that quite a bit......
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how easy a job was it to fit them? looks well nice and was considering some for mine at some point
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another fault which can be hard to track is the support bearing in the hub assembly, this can wear leading to the cv joint moving up and down, giving a fault that says the sensor is playing up, or large air gap.
have tracked this one down on mine, after getting 14 fault codes iirc
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I'm frequently surprised by where some of our members do live - some of the ones I can remember are South Africa, Italy, Syria, the Falkland Islands, Russia, Australia, Canada, Hungary, Norway, Finland, Belgium, Eire, the Bahamas, New Zealand, Switzerland, the Netherlands, Slovenia, the US of A, China, the Philipines, Haslemere ...
you forgot Wales......
hat
coat
door......
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welcome to the forum.
it's useful to put your home town in your profile, just in case you ever need help.
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pressure mat under the front seat cloth linked to a seriosuly loud siren, so when they sit on it they get a rather loud noise in a confined space???
or even a microswitch under the clutch pedal linked to the stop solenoid....
back O.T. though, it makes you wonder of the camera's had been altered so that they didn't cover the car parks. it has been known in the past for unscrupulous characters who work in hotels to work with car thieves by accidently moving the cameras etc...
it pays to make sure that when you park up at a generic roadside sleeping establishment to look for the cameras and park in range of one.
hope you hear something back about your truck though, would be devastated if my disco went, even though it's not kitted out or anything, it's still mine.
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either way he's now P38-less, a situation which i am sure will change in time - you never quite get all the ep90 out of your bloodstream.......
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is this a reappearance of the sagging 200's again??
my first disco, a J reg 200 tdi, had a nasty lean to one corner, that not even new shocks and springs could cure, i found out that for some reason, that particular age were prone to it, and that the rear springs were handed, aftermarket ones aren't......
i've had HD bearmach springs on the back end of mine for nearly 12 months now (and they were 2nd hand when i fitted them), and not had any noticeable drop. it barely deflects when i hitch a loaded ifor williams up to it, unless it's been badly loaded.
just measured mine and it's 480mm from the centre of the wheel to the arch lip
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300 tdi fan
in International Forum
Posted
just a quick one, i know the 200's will run without a viscous fan, but is it safe to run a 300 without one?