disco_al
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Posts posted by disco_al
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most garages i know swear by forte products. first thing you should do though is a clean air and fuel filter, add a bottle of diesel stop smoke into the filter, and then a couple of bottles of injector cleaner into the tank (if there is more than 1/2 a tank of diesel in there - if under 1/2 a tank, then 1 will do)
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The engine was a straight swap, we didnt touch the injectors. Would the ECU need updating when a new engine is put in
did you actually swap the injectors over? if not then i suspect that is the problem. the ecu is reading the wrong injector codes, causing limp mode maybe?
not too clued up on all this electrical witchcraft that these modern lumps use, prefer the mechanical ruggedness of my 300.....
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This ones a little more tame but a tad more real:
nice enough, but a bit strange that the spare number plate in the boot door pocket has got a different number on it.....
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If you have the space, a row of 208L drums on tap is quite handy
are you a member of lubricants anonymous by any chance ?????
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I added an extra strap from the transfer box to the gearbox crossmember on the disco, as after changing the gearbox last year, i had some strange electrical gremlins manifest themselves (speakers clicking when changing to main beam, dash lights going bright when accelerating - that sort of thing). Adding an extra, thick earth strap cured the problem. Doesn't hurt to have too many good earthing points on a landrover IMHO
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Interesting to see if the fog lights can be used as driving lights. As wel LR4x4-ers all know, it's illegal to use fogs when the visibility is better than 100 metres (although you wouldn't believe that - loads of prats drive with them on illegally/unnecassarily).
If they could be changed to driving lights (i.e. come on with full beam) you would get much more use out of them.
just a case of swapping the trigger wire to the fogs from the sidelight circuit to the main beam circuit
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with the price of the lower one, i think i'll stick to just that one for now
cheers for the advice. i may take the easy route then, and use a ratchet strap around the roof beam of a friends barn to support it. -
hmmmm, if it's been writen off, and it needs a VIC check, then it won't have an MOT on it or be taxed, as the insurance co will have taken that off.
How can it have a full 12 months MOT if it's got damage?
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Now I suspect that this is quite a commom problem with Disco's. The lower hinge on my 300 has got quite a lot of play in it, and as such is causing the rear door to drop and catch on the bumper. I have a new hinge to go on which will hopefully cure this problem, so, can anyone suggest the best way to approach replacing the hinge?
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Totally agree with the Bearmach supplies, top class stuff - i'm just glad we have a direct account with their head office through work and get everything delivered
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check your prop u/j's and the rear doughnut - i had a vibration under power and it turned out to be the rear prop coupling falling apart
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yep. i suspect that the obvious one will be the bellhousing. but what about the input shaft?
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what are the main differences between a 300tdi r380 and a v8 r380?
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nice idea and finish, but wouldn't it be vulnerable to damage off road? look how bull bars go when the coat starts to lift....
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standard disco sizes are either 205/r16 or 235/70/r16.
i've got 235/70/r16 cooper discoverer st's on my 300 and they are fantastic
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i might even try doing an entire axle case!
an old bath tub would be good for that, or even one of those cheap fibreglass garden ponds.
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i'm sure the needle topic has been covered before, i seem to remember it popping up. wasn't it something to do with the psychological aspect of having a full tank, and the driver not wanting to see his nice expensive tank of fuel disappearing too quickly? hence the needle dropping slowly for the first half....
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that's a cracking idea. now all i need is a swimming pool to drop the disco in
and a nice large generator, could use some crappy euro box as the sacrificial steel :) -
nice bit of recycling there
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the osram's are standard 55/60 watt so no wiring upgrades required, they are a whiter light so much better for night driving.
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i've just upgraded to new early td5 headlights in my 300, along with some osram nightbreaker bulbs - absolutely fantastic. as for the spotlamps, i've got gen landrover ones with ring powermax bulbs in them, and they really do light up the night.
it really depends on how much you want to spend, i bought a pair of 9" ones off ebay a year or two ago for about £30 delivered, and they weren't that bad tbh.
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AFAIK changing the body plan shouldn't involve an IVA, only chopping the chassis would cause problems.
would the Ifor williams chassis fit onto the disco chassis with some mounts fabricated up? would be a nice easy conversion.
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don't forget the weather and time of day can make a big difference too. fill up on a frosty morning and you can usually squeeze more in the tank than you can on a warm day - if it stays cold, then in theory you can get better mileage out of them. LPG is a strange one......
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it sounds to me like you've missed an earth wire somewhere.
cheers for the advice. i may take the easy route then, and use a ratchet strap around the roof beam of a friends barn to support it.
excess emissions
in Discovery Forum
Posted
i gave mine the "thrash it clean" treatment last night on the way home, first time got loads of smoke out the back, second time got nothing - so it does work. hardly get anything on startup now either.
could be worth trying this one on the way to the test station.....