AndrewHorsfield

I have had a Myway for a few years now. Been really happy with it and Paul Stevenson imports direct from South Africa, so a decent price.

Thanks I have ordered the 300tdi one. Cheers Andrew

Hi all, I am struggling to sort a Turbo Boost Pipe for my Defender 200tdi. Recently fitted the engine, but it was one of the missing bits. I think the correct part no. is ERR1458, but this is unavailable. Not sure if the 300tdi one fits (part no. ERR4699)? Can anyone advise please. If I knew the correct Banjo for the fuel injection pump end, I could probably make one. Thanks in advance (again!) Cheers Andrew

This is the company that makes and sells them direct; Anevay.co.uk Used to be called Camping Solutions

Many thanks all the replies. I never thought about the turbo (replaced a 2.5NA, so a new pleasure). I have a couple of genuine filters, ready to do a quick swap after 500miles Cheers Andrew

Hi, I am just about ready to start a rebuilt 200tdi engine. I didn't rebuild it myself and it was a while ago, what should I do to protect the engine at start up please? Should I take the rocker cover off and oil the rockers, rocker shaft, etc.? Should I use a running in oil? All recommendations gratefully received. Many thanks in advance, Andrew

Thanks all. Sounds as though I might as well go with the up to 4,000 revs, as Durite do one at sub £50 for Alternator pickup. It will be a few weeks before I get chance to do it, but I will post my learnings when I do. Cheers

Hi all, I am planning on fitting a Rev counter on my 2.5NA and about to buy a Durite one that measures form 0 to 4,000 revs. Is this the correct range for my engine please? Thanks in advance

On my old Disc I fitted a snorkel and cable-tidied the cable and raised axle breather pipe to the snorkel. The cable then ran through the gap under the bottom corner of the windscreen and through the bulkhead. No additional holes. You could run the cable up the tube work in the same way.

I bought one similar to this from Brendan at 4x4overlander.com http://4x4overlander.com/electrical/electrical-components/12-way-fuse-box.html used I in the auxiliary/second battery circuit.

I ran wires in the channel along the top of the tub for auxiliary power sockets mounted along it's length. Otherwise I ran wires in the inner roof channel, as described earlier. Cheers Andrew

I recently fitted PRC2911 to my LT77. Retro fitted reverse lights to my '91 ex-mod 110. It works a treat. Just screw it in as far as needed for the plunger to be depressed when in reverse ( I used a multimeter to set it). Mine didn't come with a lock nut, but they are reasonably standard thread.

Thanks all. I only replaced the seal, then put the same bush back in. Pretty sure I pressed (tapped) it in far enough, but probably did not lubricate the seal enough. I am also wondering if I dislodged the bush when fitting the stub axle. I will re- strip it, and see what has gone wrong. I was hoping too get away without a fight with fresh one-shot grease. Cheers

Hi all, I have spent two evenings trying to re-fit my stub axle, but I am struggling to pull the drive shaft through far enough to fit the drive member. What am I doing wrong please? Any tips. It is the older type with the seal and bronze bush in the inner end of the stub axle, and I removed it to replace the seal with a new one and I have replaced the existing bush. I have tried a bolt in the end of the half shaft and also put a thinner drive member on back to front to lever between it and the hub. It is also effecting the lock, when I try to turn the wheel it seems to bind. Thanks in advance Andrew

Hi, I am looking to add high level lights in the end of the roof, to act as repeaters to ones already fitted lower down. I have an ex MOD 110, so it has the Lucas screw on lenses. Anyone got any ideas? Prefer LED or normal fittings with LED bulbs to keep the load on wiring at a minimum. There is not much space between the outer skin and inner trim to house fittings that protrude inside the vehicle (otherwise I would fit extra military lamps). Looking to add indicators, tail and brake lights. Thanks in advance Andrew

Thanks both. I had hoped this was the case. I had no hassle12 years ago when I registered my lightweight, but I thought it had changed. Cheers Andrew

Hi all, I have a 1991 ex MOD 110 with 2.5 Naturally Aspirated Diesel (11J). I am trying to complete a V55 form to register it with DVLA. Does anyone know what the factory figures for; CO2 g/km; Particulates g/km or g/kWh; NOx g/km or g/kWh; HC g/km or g/kWh? If anyone has completed a V55 recently, I would be very greatful of the input. Many thanks Andrew

Thanks Simon, I hoped as much, but wasn't sure. Many thanks Andrew

Hi, Thanks for the fast response. I am 99% sure it is standard Land Rover Defender, as it has the same connectors as the ones covered in other threads. It also has the seat base to back connectors highlighted by the yellow tape around one connector. As the seats are half leather and with single post headrests, I am assuming they are ex a TD5 Defender. I have looked at as many of the wiring diagrams as I can find for different years and can not find the correct colours for my seats. Do you think it matters which way round they are wired? Thanks Andrew

Hi all, There are some great posts on here covering the wiring in of heated seats, but I am left with one question I can not yet answer, so here goes; I am fitting a pair of half leather heated seats out of what I believe was a TD5 Defender (ebay purchase). I have cracked; the switches ( a pair of aftermarket ones in the front on my cubby box); a pair of 20amp fused relays (in the seat box next to the batteries); ignition feed to switches. What I am sure of is the colour coding of the pair of wires running to the heating pads in the seat. There are 2 wires, a yellow one and a silver/grey wire. Does it matter which round they are wired? If so, is the yellow or silver wire positive (and the other one negative)? Many thanks in advance Andrew