robhybrid
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Posts posted by robhybrid
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My challenge truck is powered by 2.8 isuzu.
From my experiance with old (my price range) Isuzu trooper engines:-
uk spec had cam belts.
Import spec had timing gears.
I have removed the covers from an engine which had gears for a customer ready to fit a replacement belt.
the customer had been charged for belt replacement in the past.
The newer isuzu king cab trucks I think are timing gears.
As for the transplant.
I have done several into 90's, series, and a light weight.
The only slight complication has been that I have had to fabricate an exhaust to cross from under one side of the engine to the other so I could join to existing pipe work.
I wouldn't remove a 200 or 300 or td5 in order to fit a Isuzu but would consider it as a cheaper alternative if the original engine had died.
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Gwyn Lewis (01938 810298) has them in stock (plain steel)as he uses/modifys them as a base for making his suspension lift kits.
He has to buy a lot of them to get the price right.
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doh
That makes a big difference.
Thanks Tim
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Richards have built specials in the past.
Jim (giglepin) chassis is a special built by richards I belive.
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I dont appear to be able to read any of the pm's that I have sent recently.
I think I must have changed some settings somwhere as I only have 4 pm's in my sent box from 2005
what settings have I altered and how do I set it back to normal.
I dont want to send people the same thing numerous times thinking I hadn't sent it.
I know people have technical questions about forum set up from time to time.
Should I have spent more time searching before putting up this post?
Should there be/is there a position for storing forum settings type questions and answers.
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I should have 5 kits complete by Friday afternoon 1/8/08 I have got all the components together I just need to do a bit of fabrication and painting.
I had a report back from Red 90 driver (Nick) today his coments have pointed out a flaw in my fitting instructions but were otherwise very satisfactory.
During fitting there is no clearindication as to how the pipes are routed.
This was deliberate by me as different engine/radiator examples could possibly mean that the pipes end up being routed differently.
Iintend on taking some more better quality photos over the week end.
I appear to have lost steering lock in one direction.
The travel/stroke of the assist a ram is very close to the travel of the steering rod.
I have fabricated the Assist a ram to fitt in place of the steering damper with the front steering rod in its factory position.
If you have fitted longer or shorter after marked front steering rods you will need to adjust the length of the front rod.
On full left hand lock(steering held tight left hand down the rod of the Assist A Ram is both fully into its cylinder and not obstructing steering travel.
The travel can be checked by removing the m10 bolt from the drop arm end of the steering rodand ensuring the steering wont move any further or the rod go in any more than 5mm.
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Not got a TD5 but I have got a 200tdi in my 110 with various engine and turbo mods, with an Ashcroft 1.222 LT230 transfer box, and it probably puts out as much power as a TD5. Only recently finished the upgrade work so no definitive figures, but seat of the pants estimate is about 30mpg if driven sensibly on a long run, and a lot less if it gets walloped. I think this is a couple of mpg more than the old box. The big difference is the driving comfort - dont need 5th gear until after 45/50mph, and in 5th its quiet, smooth, and not straining the engine like the original 110 box. It stills pulls away in grand style without slippig the clutch. Not sure what your knobbly tyres and lift will do for it though, and the winch is a lump too, but whatever, I suspect you'll see an improvement simply due to lower revs on longer runs.
what ratio was your old 200 tdi transfer box if it was 1.6 I highly recomend you list it for sale on this forum the box is a desirable item if you run 35" simex
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If you just want to grab an extra 12 months (depending on use) out of your gearbox before having to remove it and you are willing to sacrifice a new cross drilled gear, then changing the gear will do this.
The cross drilled gear has slightly longer internal splines and will take drive on a portion of shaft that has not been worn.
This is really true bodgers temporary fix.
Proper fix is to remove gear box strip down and rebuild with a new output/main shaft then re fitt with new cross drilled gear.
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Some more pics of the ram mounting please
The ram is mounted exactly as per standard steering damper.
and do you use the original swan neck to mount the ram to?
I do use the original swan neck ( on my own vehicle I am using a discovery drop arm and have then welded tabs to my hd steering rod to emulate the swan neck damper mounting)
as I was warned off of using it.
There is debate as to the strength of the swan neck but that is not the reason I don't use it, a disco track rod end is quicker and easyer to replace than the ball joint in the defender drop arm.
Does the pump you use offer enough flow?
This is one of the reasons that my assist a ram is only 25mm bore, having experemented with 40 mm bore the steering was super strong and feather light ( I could turn the wheels when they were buried in mud and I was nose down in a hole and the rear of the vehicle would move accross) but I couldn't turn the wheeel acceptably fast.
I have developed this Hydro Assist to be a straight forward easy fitt, the kit can be improved but where do you draw the line on how much money you spend.
does the ram keep up with the steering box
The purist will notice a difference and as such I would never recomend it for a comp safari vehicle, for challenge use I am more than hapy with it, I would like people to have tried it out for themselves before comiting to purchase.
what is it like on the road.
I am happy with it but to give a definative opinion here is something I would be causious about.
and the price please
I have a rough gude price in mind.
Give Gwyn Lewis a ring as I intend on selling through him initially(ability to take card payments, mail order ability,Vat issues)
Dave Lama and Jim Gigglepin have expressed an interest in selling this kit.
Hold on a little as I havent the finances to hold large stocks and need to evaluate liability issues before producing loads of these kits.
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pm sent.
I was hoping I would be able to explain a bit more about my set up of hydro assist and why I have done it like this by answering peoples questions.
So.
Questions please
Rob.
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I have run this kit on my vehicle for the past year or so but was hoping to get feedback from the few I have supplied before releasing for general sale.
As such I currently only have one kit in stock and replace it as it is sold.
I'll send you a pm with my price and phone number.
I highly advice you have a chat with me regarding the issues I can explain to you about this before you purchase.
I hope to discuss these issues I have on line over the next few days.
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Installation instructions for damper replacement hydro assist.
Ensure that your comprehensive kit of parts supplied is complete.
Parts in the kit consist of:-
2 Hydraulic fittings for the top and bottom of the power steering box,
2 Copper washers for the above fittings,
1 Adapter fitting to go into the bleed nipple of the power steering box,
2 Hydraulic fittings to go into the assist a ram,
2 Dowty washers for the above fittings,
1 Tee piece fitting.
1 300mm braided hose pipe,
1 600mm braided hose pipe,
1 900mm braided hose pipe,
1 Rose joint complete with bushing,
1 Modified hydraulic ram,
2 Polypropylene bushes,
1 Modified domed washer,
1 Nylock nut.
Tools you will need:-
9/16” spanner,
22mm spanner,
17mm spanner x2,
19mm spanner,
Container for catching old power steering oil,
Replacement power steering oil,
Park your Landrover on firm level ground ensuring the hand brake is applied.
Carefully clean around the whole of your power steering box to ensure there is no risk of dirt entering the hydraulic system when pipes or fittings are removed.
Remove the original steering damper from chassis end (19mm spanner) and from steering rod (17mm spanner x 2)
Retain the m10 bolt and nut removed from the steering rod end of the old steering damper for use later.
Using a 9/16” spanner remove the link pipe that goes from the top of your power steering box to the bottom of your power steering box.
Power steering fluid will leak out of the 2 corresponding holes once this pipe is removed ensure you catch this waste oil with an appropriate container.
Fit the 2 hydraulic fittings for the top and bottom of the power steering box complete with their corresponding copper washers to ensure they do not leak.
Fit the supplied tee piece to the bottom fitting (leave slightly loose until pipe work is fitted).
Remove the bleed nipple from the top of your power steering box, replace the bleed nipple with the supplied adapter fitting. Retain the bleed nipple somewhere safe in your vehicle should you need to revert your steering back to normal in the future.
Assembly of the assister ram
Ensure the rose joint is securely attached to the end of the ram piston and slide one polypropylene bush onto the pin on the other end.
Push the bush end of the ram through the fixing position hole at the chassis end.
Slide on the second polypropylene bush followed by the modified washer.
Wind on the nylock nut and tighten with a 22mm spanner.
Remove the 2 protective dust caps from the ports of the assist a ram.
Pull the piston out of the ram until the rose joint lines up with the fixing position on the steering rod.
Fit the m10 bolt that had been saved when removing the steering damper earlier.
Attach the 2 hydraulic fittings to the assist a ram complete with the supplied dowty washers.
Assembly of braided hydraulic pipe work
Leave all pipe fittings loose until you are happy with their position and routing, the JIC fittings on the pipe work provided requires tightening down finger tight then turning one more flat with a spanner .
Run the shortest of the 3 pipes from the top rear of the power steering box down to the tee piece.
(this pipe is long enough to route along the same position as the original link pipe or along the top and then drop down as I have done)
Run the middle length pipe from the tee piece to the assist a ram fitting closest to the piston rod.
Run the longest length pipe from the bleed nipple position down to assist a ram fitting closest to the chassis.
With all three pipes loosely fitted it should be possible to adjust their position such that there are no sharp kinks in the hoses or any chance of the pipes either rubbing on any engine or body components.
Once happy tighten up all fittings.
Power steering oil re fill
Fill up the reservoir of the power steering system with the appropriate power steering oil.
Start up the engine and top up the fluid reservoir.
With the engine still running slowly turn the steering from lock to lock.
With the wheels pointing forward check the reservoir and top up as necessary.
Finally check all fittings for leaks.
Steering system restore
Should you need to temporarily restore the power steering system back to original simply slacken the hose that fits to the original bleed nipple position, undo the adapter fitting and re fit your original bleed screw, remove the short pipe from the tee piece, remove the tee piece and fit the short pipe into the hydraulic fitting.
Enjoy!
Disclaimer
This assist a ram kit is intended for the assistance of the steering when coupled with larger than normal sized off road tyres.
As such it has not been homologated for use on the road.
It is your responsibility to familiarize yourself with the changed behaviour of your steering system.
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I fear I could be opening a can of worms.
I have spent some time talking to the people at adwest at billing over the last 3 years who supply 275? power steering boxes per week to Landover.
It is their explanation of how the power steering box works plus googling a few American web sites that has enabled me to have a better understanding of how the Landover power steering works.
The representative I spoke to from adwest this time spoke to me about his conserves with increasing the pressure/flow of oil into the standard power steering box, he showed me how this could eventually lead to bearing failure in the upper chamber (item 8 in rogevouge'pic) which could then cause debris to fall and jam the gear and rack (item 15 and 1) with disastrous results.
At the same time as giving me this explanation he was also truing to sell me their higher strength version box £575 which was basically a heavy duty defender box with disco 2 internals.
The design of system I have at the moment is designed to be a straight forward no welding, drilling or machining required fit, as such I am aware of some slight drawbacks.
I can see how I can improve it using a discovery drop arm instead of defender and as such I intend on looking into the availability of parts and the lightly additional costs.
I shall upload my pics then cut and paste my word document accross.
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I have had fitted fitted hydro assist to my vehicle for the year or so and as such have put another onto Gwyn Lewis's truck and supplied another for Adrian to destroy / (constructively) complain about.
I have been working on my hydro assist with input from a good freind of mine Gwyn Lewis and pipework supplied by Dave Lama.
I have written a set of fitting instructions complete with pictures and wish I had the one above whilst I was doing it.
I have been tempted to post these fitting instructions allong with my reasons for why I have made up my kit in the way I have, but dont want to come across as doing blatant advertising.
I would though be interested in moderators opinions especially as some of them are making up kits for their own vehicles.
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I have a a pair of toy 80 axles wasnt going to sell them but could be tempted with a good offer?
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I am going down to billing with Gwyn Lewis shall be there late on thursday till sunday I think.
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I didnt enter night event before hand as:-
I needed to know how much I broke on Saterday.
The event was not part of the championship points.
I would be interested in doing a night event though and have enjoyed the format of previous years.
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If you happened to be spinning one wheel a lot imediatelly before this happend then one of the sun wheels could easily sieze to the cross pin.
In my experiance I have seen loads of cross pins break and on closer inspection you can see where the pin started to sieze before giving up.
I think std difs were not designed for severe wheel spin but more to suit the slight difference in rotational speed of 2 wheels when you drive round a corner.
with a diff out it is interesting to put in 2 half shafts ant turn the input while holding one of the half shafts, the cross pin has to do a lot of work.
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How about using narrower series axles with rr diffs fitted and then making a portal box to fit on the end of them.
The width would then end up only marginally wider than original.
Std series shafts and uj swivels could be used and the lack of strength compensated for by the gear reduction in the drop box.
Somebody earlyer had a similar idea to me in that the stub axle would un bolt off the axle then bolt onto the drop box.
This is what I have considered and as such done many a fag packed drawing only to think I havent got enough spare time as it is.
Would it be possible to modify a cv joint (weld a sprocket to it) and use that as your drop box output shaft, the input would be a similar modified std drive member.
I was tempted by the idea of running a duplex?/triplex chain and sprocket type drop box.
I thought manufacture may be cheeper acuracy not needed to be as good ang if the box bot damaged there would be a chance it could still run.
I thought you wouldnt need to make different casings to alter the gear ratio, chust change sprocet sizes.
When I win the lotttery
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Any chance of post codes for the different sites so that I can put it into my tom tom
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Ill be there late on Sat
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I have bought a winch bumper in hastings and need to get it to slab on Sat if at all possible anybody from down that way coming to the first round of howling wolf?
pm me your phone no. if you can help cheers Rob.
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I have seen shocks break several times but have yet to see this caused by the shock quality.
I have seen shocks fitted on home brew suspension where they bottom out putting extreme pressure on the mountings.
I have seen shocks break when the fittings have been used with incorrect bushings not allowing shocks to move as the axle articulates.
I have seen shocks break when the bushings have been fitted that tightly the main rod can be seen to bend during axle articulation.
I have seen shocks wear out due to rubber boots being fitted holding in water and mud causing rust and acting as grinding paste on moving components.
Unfortunately many people want to have a go at doing their own modification but then blame the kit when they have problems.
It is always seems to be the case that those people that have the money to pay out in the first place are the people that end up saving money at the end of the day.
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I had a letter from my steel stockholder this week telling me that steel prices are going up and predicts that by April they will be £100 per ton more than the Dec 2007 prices .
So best buy know .
I help a mate fabricate farm buildings and we worked out this price increase based on 7" by 4" RSJ steelwork.
The price increase worked out at 12.8%
When you consider that steel prices have increased by 20% over the last 2 years before this new increase it is extortionate!
Above and beyond their design intention
in International Forum
Posted
I was looking back over some previous messages and thought this deserved to be a topic in its own right.
Some of mine
Series front grill used for a beach barbque?
Series used to tow a fully laiden fire engine?
Std 90 cv joints used to drive 35" simex?
Std RR 10 spline half shafts used to drive 35" simex?