ronnie_rotten

this time, i will do my best to do just that! it may be of interest to someody out there, and it's about time i actually documented what i put into these god forsaken contraptions!

thanks, mark. i'd appreciate that. it's always handy to know which bits to keep, isn't it!

weeeeeell, i bought it. knocked enough off to make it 'feel' like a good buy. drove home nicely, no nasties..... yet. looks like rear door handle linkage to fettle, nearside indicators to tinker with and a patch on inner wing and one sill. luckily, i got a guy for that who owes me one! judging by the state of the bolts on the rear tie down/recovery points it's never had a towbar fitted, at least not for many moons. oh well, here we go again....!

all good points. I'm off for another looksee now. Hoping to find some history in the glove box! And maybe some sills behind the plastic!

tdi. if it was a v8, i wouldn't be able to run it day to day! and what else is wrong with it. well, aint that the 64,000...? the guy selling it buys motors he thinks are priced well, or haggles for a better price, and then turns them out as quickly as possible for a small profit. he rarely does anything mechanical to them. i guess it's like buying a px car - it is what it is, take it or leave it. as far as history goes, last owner was a woman, and that's all got! to my mind, it seems a reasonable price. i payed 600 for a disco with no boot floor last year, cos it was local and would do what i ineded for a month or 2. this ones got 100k more on the clock ,but seems a much cleaner and is far better body wise. it's got no tow bar on. i had been thinking that's good as it wouldn't have been hauling loads of weight around, but maybe that's a warning sign of some sort? don't think it's been removed for off roading, body's too straight. better be double checking for rot at the fixing points i guess.... i hate buying new cars....

ok. Quick poll, one word answers will do, elaborate if you like! For sale: '98 3 door disco. 225,000 miles, 5 months mot. good boot floor and arches, chassis sound. Gear box and transfer box quiet and changes smoothly. electric windows work, interior clean under seat covers. Paintwork oxidised on lower skirts, but ok. Back door mechanism will need some fettling as needs key and handle to open. Not a minter, but first impressions are ok. Asking price 850. No movement on that. Too much to ask, or worth a punt? Go!

i'm not sure if i see it as an advantage or not... i do like the useful storage pockets in 5 door models, but then, i hate those crappy plasticy storage pockets in 5 door models!!! dunno what the insurance implications of 2 extra seats is? higher premium, i guess...

hey all. i've just been to have a quick look at a disco i'm considering buying. it;s a '98 with sexy black paint. just struck me thst it had 7 seats, but only 3 doors. is that a weird setup? i would of thought if somebody carried enough passengers to justify 7 seats, they might opt for a full set of doors too?!? was just wondrin', is all....

i note you have no easy solution for thhe spare cash...!

i'm sold. I was expecting 15-20 mpg driving steady! Now all i need is a nice 130 and a carp daf, and an engineer, and some spare cash...

meaning 'hmm. we'll need to think about this one...'? i wish these things came with a plain english version...

it's actually in really good condition compared to all the vinyl liners i've had before. i'm sure it's meant to be cream, but then i'd never considered the possibility that it was born brown! it might look wrong in a 300tdi, but anything that stops the drips....

what sort of fuel economy do you get from a lorry engined landy?!? i know.... who cares? but i'd still like to know...

i was just wondrin'....oh, i've already said it in the title. well that saves me from wittering on. i can't stand wittering. witter, witter witter. drives me potty. nothing more annoying than excessive witter. i got a fuzzy type one off ebay to fit to a 300tdi project, i know it's not the right type for that, and that made me wonder which model it would have come from originally. incidently, if anybody wanted a very grubby but sound fuzzy period rooflining (with back and side pieces) to swap for a main panel in vinyl, i'd be game...

very smart. looks like that could be a possibility. i'll have a chat with the better half and see what she makes of it. fledgling plan at the moment...

sorted. finally. didmexactly the same as we've been doing for days, and this time it worked. stoopid motors!

hmm. i'm losing sleep over this now! all prts apart from the friction plate are being reused, so they're definately right. i've had a bloody good wriggle/kick from the back end a few times, and i suspect that's the way i'll be spending most of tomorrow. wriggle-kicking.

bearing not changed (\naughty naughty, i know) but seated correctly

spigot bearing being the brassy cylinder thing? looked ok, went back in clean.

i used to own this truck and changed the clutch a couple of years ago. under extreme use (and poor judgement) the new owner burnt out the clutch. knowing it wasn't really the right thing to do, but also knowing the relative youth of the other componants, he just bought a new friction plate. i believe the kit i bought was a borg one, not really sure which parts he sourced... ...could it be the plate has different dimensions? is it thicker? that would explain the consistant gap i guess...

i've spent most of the past 3 days lying in a muddy field trying to get a gearbox back into place after a clutch change (300tdi defender, r380 gbox) i've read and re-read les's guide, another one i found through google, and i even looked in a haynes manual for a laugh. i can't work out what we're doing wrong. i've done 2 clutch changes before, so i thought it would be simples. i've checked that the friction plate is in the right way round, the plate is correctly centered, turned the engine on the crank to line up the splines, raised and lowered gearbox and engine relative to each other, put m10 threaded bar in some holes to make sure the orientation is right, and invented new expletives, 'cos the 'stock' ones didn't work. i've gone back to square one 3 times, removing and re-fitting the friction plate and truely believing that the next time will be the last. it never is. i always end up with a half inch gap all the way round and no more movement. 'tis making me quite cross. what am i missing? i will accept all offerings, including ones that describe me as a tit of some sort. i need to get my mate sorted before i can get on with my life, which i really need to do. soon!

oh, this is more a case of cirrumstances pulling the rug from under me! got a baby due 12/12/12 (auspicious, no?) and were moving over east in the campervan to have him so my parents can look after boy number 1 while we're in hospital. can't move both vehicles, cos the insurance want 150 extra to add a named driver, which is a joke. was going to leave the disco at work and sort it out at a later date, but i've sacked the boss because he's a selfish arzle, and i'm sick of making him rich. so no storage. tax will run out within a couple of weeks of the birth, then we're off to ireland early in the new year. there's just too much going on to make it work, so it's gotta go, sadly. first £500 can have it!

has anyone ever safely and legally fitted rear facing seats into the back of a 110, right up against the bulkhead? my understanding is that seatbelts would be optional (as rear facing) but advisable, i'd be fitting them anyway if i went ahead. they'd have to be properly secured, so i'd probably have a pro do it. could a rear seat from a rangie or jag or something suitably comfy be attached to a proper subframe and via that to the rear bodywork (with plenty of bracing, strengthening load spreaders etc etc)? opinions, pictures, warnings all accepted and appreciated.

truck now for sale (boot and all) in the trading post. ebay later this week if no interest here. sorry to hear the boot knocked you for 6, jim. that's a tidy looking job. wishing you aspeedy recovery.

If you look at the chassis near the damper behind the rear wheel, there are a couple of body mounts(?) Which are about 2 inches from a whole lot of er, hole. The seatbelt mounts are still within inches of corrosion even if they're anchored to the chassis and there's a rather large void right next to the mountings for the rear seats. Even if i remove the seats, solving the belt and mounting problem, there's still those pesky body mounts within range of 'the beetle' as my mate calls it. I know all testers have their own interpretation of the guidelines, but i don't think too many would look at this boot and declare "my, what a fine example of structural goodness" and then hand me a lollypop. Maybe i'll try and get some pics up tomorrow. Just for laughs!