ronnie_rotten

Looks like some of the buggies from mad max 2, only.....rubbish. But probably is good fun. But deadly. But fun.

Chicken Drumstick, on 03 Oct 2013 - 1:08 PM, said: If you need the CAT to pass the MoT emissions test, I'd personally say it isn't a worth while mod to have to faff with it twice a year. The extra power you'll get will be minimal unless you building a whole system. And if you are, then a CAT won't actually be a limiting factor on the HP levels an RV8 produces. I thought a cat reduced harmful gasses in the exhaust? Isn't a diesel emmisions test only concerned with particulates, meaning the cat is irrelevant for the test? Petrol test is concerned with exhaust gas composition. My last 300 had no cat and easily passed emmisions tests by a significant margin... And I'm sure the op has a 300tdi disco... All thus v8 stuff kinda just got jumbled in when somebody mentionef a rev limiter...

yes, yes. v8's are very nice. very revvy. yes. i think replacing the front exhaust section with a decat pipe can be considered a cheap mod, especially if you weigh in the cat at the scrappy. that and unplugging the egr (or removing the thing with a kit) should do a bit for performance. or so they tells me...

the ally strip makes it look like ive sliced a chunk of the bottom of the wing, but its only there to strengthen the panel. ran out of black paint which is why its the same colour as the gravel

because i'm fitting new tyres and the best advice and evidence suggests that with stock suspension and a camel cut 235's will fit.

Agreed. Looks hardcore until it looks shabby. SATIN however looks smart but cool, ages well, hides scratches... Satin black. All day every day!

If you're going to hand paint rather than spray, a good quality roller can give a great finish. My missus has been painting caravans and vans with dulux 'pick your colour' paint (taragon glory is her preference!) for years. The gloss goes after a year or so, then really looks well weathered after 3. It is a cheap way around it though. I think you really get what you play for with paint. My first landy was white until I set about it with a tin of NATO matte green and a (don't laugh) 1 inch stenciling brush. I did one wing with a cheap roller which soaked up way too much paint and made a right mess. The only brush to hand was an expensive tiny one. It actually came out really well. Did take a Day or 2, but I was drinking steadily throughout... ! Anchor supplies usually have a stock of military paint and there's a guy on ebay who has decent quality paint. He used to sell at the shows under the name of 'the paint man' i think. If you need advice on colour, the answer is satin black. anyone who says otherwise hasnt thought it through!

Woohoo! That's almost a compliment! To be fair, the one picture that would have shown the overlap was the one I didn't take. No matter. Thanks wabbit.

Beautiful.

There you go. Quick squirt of pound shop paint, and we're all ship shape. All that remains is to fit a proper sized set of tyres and see if I estimated the crease right. Otherwise it's gonna get opened up wider with the grinder!

...and now you know?!? i really think that if you started with a more structurally sound wing, a good selection of clamps, long nosed mole grips and took your time, you'd get excellent results. i just got stuck in with what i had to hand!

Oops, duplicate thread. Delete me please!

I've seen some tidy camel cuts before, but have always thought that the sane result could be achieved by folding the rear wing round and leaving a more 'factory' finish. Not by me, you understand, I'm a pioneer, not a craftsman! So equipped with inadequate tools and a hang over, I set too it... First I cut up the corner of the original cold with a jigsaw. The hacksaw was blunt and taking too long. Next I took an adjustable spanner, gripped the edge rear of the cut and twisted it in a bit. I repeated this at intervals up to the top of the cut. I forgot to take pictures of this bit. I was having so much fun. I held a good solid piece of steel into the back of the corner I had created and gently pounded it into a contour to match the original wing. I started with rubber hammer and finished with a claw hammer. Cos I'm impatient. And rough. I pinned the 2 pieces with a tech screw and then applied seam sealant to smooth out the join. I'll tidy this up at tomorrow once this lot had set. As the rest of the wing was corroded. I trimmed and put a length of ally on to strengthen it. Couldn't find my rivets, so the tech screw's reared their ugly head. Again. Overall, I'm quite pleased. It still needs tidying, but as far as quick rough jobs go, this isn't my worst ever!

Pics...

I've seen some tidy camel cuts before, but have always thought that the sane result could be achieved by folding the rear wing round and leaving a more 'factory' finish. Not by me, you understand, I'm a pioneer, not a craftsman! So equipped with inadequate tools and a hang over, I set too it... First I cut up the corner of the original cold with a jigsaw. The hacksaw was blunt and taking too long. Next I took an adjustable spanner, gripped the edge rear of the cut and twisted it in a bit. I repeated this at intervals up to the top of the cut. I forgot to take pictures of this bit. I was having so much fun. I held a good solid piece of steel into the back of the corner I had created and gently pounded it into a contour to match the original wing. I started with rubber hammer and finished with a claw hammer. Cos I'm impatient. And rough. I pinned the 2 pieces with a tech screw and then applied seam sealant to smooth out the join. I'll tidy this up at tomorrow once this lot had set. As the rest of the wing was corroded. I trimmed and put a length of ally on to strengthen it. Couldn't find my rivets, so the tech screw's reared their ugly head. Again. Overall, I'm quite pleased. It still needs tidying, but as far as quick rough jobs go, this isn't my worst ever!

Well since it doesn't work without clubbing the crappola out of it I guess it's worth taking it out and trying to fix it. Before throwing it in the ditch and fitting one I haven't destroyed...

Nnnnyeah. I kinda thought that... Can I put it back in without unnecessary stress/misery/worse? I have found that if i beat the handle with a screwdriver or other implement, the button eventually pops out. An excellent workaround. Maybe I should just chuck it in the ditch and get a new one?

Grr. Changed the bias plate today after putting it of for ages. as I wiggled and pulled the giant plastic lump that is the center console, the handbrake lever shed it's little clip and pin that attach the handbrake cable to the lever. All good, thinks I. Saves me breaking the plastic trying to squeeze it over it. On putting it back together I find the release button on b the lever doesn't return when released. And it feels too stiff. I found a spring I didn't recognise when cleaning up after myself and wondered if it may have dropped out of the lever? Anybody got a clue about the internals of the handbrake lever? I may just get Dizzy to add a hand brake lever to my shopping list for the sake of not messing about with it, but it'd be nice to know...

Here's mine on its weeny 205's. After 230,000 miles the springs have probably sagged a bit. I guess we'll see in time...

Yep. A trim if nothing else... As anyone seen a guide or pictures and measurements of how to get a tidy cameo cut? I know its nothing too technical, but it would be nice to fold the panel round or something to get as good a finish ad possible. If seen some really badly hacked off bits and would rather go at it with some advice...

Even allowing for perspective, that's a serious increase in size! I wonder if I shouldn't be thinking about replacing the springs while there's still some bodywork left... Maybe I'll let them rub for a couple of days til herself suggests the suspension lift....

Standard height at the moment, but that may change. I've had the front valance off already and I know I'll need to camel cut the rear arches. So turning circle wise there probably wouldn't be much difference between the 2 available sets then? I like the look of wolf rims on a disco, but at the minute I don't really want to spend out too much if I can run with what I have.

I'm likely to be getting some bfg MTs on disco steel rims soon, is there any benefit (ignoring looks as I don't dislike the steels) to having them fitted to my existing set of standard disco alloys? I'm thinking in terms of strength, offset etc.

....oh, does a disconnected (unplugged) egr essentially perform as a 'blanked' manifold, or does it not seal up in the same way a plate would?

good. i don't feel comfortable having wirey bits hanging around under my bonnet. well, not too many wirey bits. i'm sure some of them are reasonably important...