paradigm shift

Never! you're all ruddy hooligans!

Mine is standard (i think!) - conversion on a 110 and looks standard. I'm going to have it fully serviced shortly so might be a good benchmark? Not 100% sure how many miles though.

I have read about uprating the fuel pump and intercooler on a 200TDi as the two first steps in tuning one.. Just out of interest what are the limitations of the engine? When are you pushing the injectors to their limit and how much boost can a standard engine cope with safely? I know a lot of these questions are trial and error, but it's always handy info to have if anyone can share their experiences.

Wish I had the space and time to attempt it myself but I don't. I've barely enough room on the drive to crawl under the 110 and somehow I've got to haul the turbo out of my car this weekend and fit a new exhaust. Gonna tow her to the garage with the 200sx sometime next week. Should be fun with 300bhp and a paddle clutch!

Definitely interested, if it's next year then there's plenty of time to save some money and make sure I'm not working that weekend.

This is a good question actually. I have tubes on the 110 currently and hate them. It may just be my skanky rims but the tube is always getting caught on something and punctured. Have had more flats on that car than any other because of it so I was going to go tubeless when the tyres need changing. The point about stuff getting stuck in them offroad is an interesting one though. Surely with a tubed tyre there isn't as much pressure holding the tyre against the rim as there is with a tubeless one so therefore it's easier for things to get wedged? Who knows, my knowledge is somewhat limited to daft sports cars

Ok guys lots of good info there, I think they'll come off at the weekend, along with the side steps too (which are seized because they never get used!). Over time I can see everything possible being removed from the underside, just more things to get broken and more things to clean..

I'm missing a mudflap on my 110 so I've reached a crucial decision! Do I replace the mudflap, or do I remove them all? I've noticed the other weekend that a lot of people don't have them, yet I would have thought they do a good job keeping muck off the underside of the vehicle (at least a little? ) or do they not really help once you get into the sticky stuff properly and perhaps stop the wheels from throwing off mud from their treads?

Could be the first explanation, I'm using Firefox at the moment. IE was doing my nut with bugs which seemed to have no reason for being there and no cure.. oh wait.. microsoft..

Most images on here display ok, but occasionally I just get some text saying "IPB Image" assumedly when they've been attached to the post and not linked to an image hosted elsewhere. Anybody know why? Sorry it's not Landy content but I wasn't sure who to PM so feel free to delete this once I've been enlightened!

I did bleed the system fully, what worries me is that I can move the clutch release fork easily by hand. Something ain't right in there! Off down my local specialist in the morning to arrange getting it fixed.

Saw a 130 in the flesh a while back. Impressive machines.. they seem huuge! Always good to see something a bit different.

As promised.. Filled the clutch system today, no pressure on the pedal.. weird. Take the cylinder off, it moves when you push the pedal so all ok there... *n00bie moment* ..perhaps the pushrod connecting to the release fork is not supposed to just move in and out as it pleases. Taken the cylinder back off, and the rod moves in and out when you push/pull it with a slight notch at either end of the movement.. no spring whatsoever. Well, I guess that's a bit knackered then aint it. My thinking is perhaps the slave cylinder has died on me and knackered something else in there at the same time, perhaps the spring, the fork, or maybe even the clutch itself. I guess the only way to know is to take the gearbox out. Is that a driveway job or am I going to need to send it to a garage to have the engine out as well (as previously mentioned) Cars are awesome. I need to pull the turbo out on my 200sx this week as well as the manifold is coming loose.. d'oh! I swear they're in league. Both fine until something breaks on one and the other sits there thinking "ooh i could screw him over if i was to break now.. mwahhahaha!!" Gotta keep laughing eh!

Well after a very long, very dirty afternoon, the new slave is in place. I'll refill the system after work tomorrow, and somehow drain the system. Probably gonna have to drill through the bolt for now. The old slave certainly looked like it was knackered. Very rusty end covered in fluid of some description. Tune in tomorrow for another exciting installment of "Tales of a tatty Landy"..

Cheers guys, I'll add that to the bill next time I'm at Aylmers.. Already had a transfer linkage yoke, a rear reflector and a clutch slave cylinder off em this week..

Yes! another problem which I just remembered about, not many left to fix now! (..cue everything else breaking) Basically my fuel filler cap doesn't seal so I get a lovely wet patch. I've had a look but can't see any way of fixing it. Are they adjustable or do I need a new one?

It seemed to happen overnight so it hasn't been shaken up at all.. fingers crossed it's not all over the clutch anyway. If the worst comes to the worst should I just drill through the bolt, rethread the hole and put a new one in?

Bit of an update on my day off (at least its stopped raining!). The wading bung wont budge, and now the pedal is very light, feels like no resistance whatsoever except the spring. I haven't had the slave off yet, but the reservoir is empty, is it a fair bet to say it's knackered? If it is, I assume I can do the job myself getting the required part, refitting the slave and somehow draining the bellhousing? Do i need to replace the clutch at all if it's been covered in fluid?

D'oh.. bent a spanner this morning trying to get it off (still hasn't budged!). I think I'll bleed the clutch first and hope that cures it, then get it to the local landy specialist and let them deal with the damn thing!

Was only in the mudbath briefly so I don't think much will have gotten in. Didn't manage to get the plug out of the bellhousing today.. even sprayed with wd40 any socket or spanner I put on there is just rounding the head off.. any ideas?

Thanks for your comments guys, I've got the day off tomorrow so I'm going to have a good look at it then and I'll let you know what I find.

Just ordered my replacement part from my local Land Rover specialist. The easiest way to access it is to remove the transmission tunnel and floorpan from between the seats/below the cubby box. It's just below there and a doddle to reach

Hi All, after getting the transfer box fixed and having a great day at Devil's Pit offroading yesterday (my first time!) I come to move her this morning and the clutch doesn't seem to be disengaging. There's no obvious fluid leaks, so perhaps an air lock in the system? I'm at a bit of a loss really as everything was working fine last night on the drive home.

For anyone else who has this problem.. you can, with much difficulty (and a little assistance from a friend on the Nissan 200sx owners club!), weld the yoke back together if need be. The transfer box crank it attaches to was well and truly seized which probably caused the damage. Loosened the box up, welded the yoke back together.. it'll get me through a day's offroading tomorrow hopefully and last until Monday for a new part!

ok just had a look at the linkage and the yoke has snapped! perhaps it happened yesterday though it feels at the moment like it did yesterday before i managed to get low ratio selected. i only have a haynes to work from and it isnt very descriptive. the bit the yoke attaches to doesnt seem to move at all, is it meant to or does it simply act as a fixed point and all the movement takes place up the other end of the connecting shaft? can i simply weld the yoke back together as a temporary fix? note to self.. just because something works once dont assume its not broken..