Ex Member

Alrighty then Mr Ed.... That is my chart...... If your so unhappy, get out there and find some better data..... I'll be happy to update the chart as it quite clearly states at the top of the page. Heck, even measure the coils and I'll calculate the spring rates for you. The REASON newer data is not on there is because LR stopped publishing the spring rates.

No, they have a temperature sensor in the relay module and adjust the glow time based on the outside temperature. They use the ambient temperature at the relay location to determine the required glowing time. I have mine wired so that the light is on when the plug are energized. There is a large change with temperature. At +5C it is a few seconds, at -10C it is around 30 seconds.

Sorry, what engine?? On my 200TDI, the really is mounted on the firewall. It contains a temperature sensore which adjusts the glow period depending on the temperature. It also gives a post glow after starting of the same amount of time. If your plugs are on all the time..... they are probably dead.... The current draw is around 50 to 70 Amps which is enough to max out the stock alternator...... You don't really "need" them for starting until it is fairly cold, say below -5 C depending on the fuel quality, the engine's condition and the battery's condition. Friends don't let their friends screw with their vehicle's electrics...

A friend just tested that block heater in a 200TDI and it fits there as well.

Sorry, but your understanding of physics is a little lacking. The power requirements have nothing to do with gearing, but wind and rolling resistance only. With larger tyres giving higher gearing, there is no more power required. It makes the engine run at a lower speed. Whether or not that affect mileage deends on the engine. Engines have an efficiency curve and provide maximum efficiency at certain speeds. For most diesels, higher gearing on the motorway reduces fuel consumption as the higher gearing put the engine closer to its maximum efficiency point. This is why people fitting overdrives find a reduction in fuel consumption. For most engine, maximum efficiency is found near the peak torque point. The problem with the OP's question is complicated. The gearing increases (which is good), but the wind resistance increases at the same time. In addition, the power required to accelerate the tires increases (slightly). Where most people get confused is that they use the odometer to check mileage. If you change tyres, the odometer reads incorrectly and it appears that mileage changed quite a bit. Larger tyres make the odometer slow down, so it seems that the fuel consumption increased. If you adjust the mileage figures for the odometer error, you'll fnd little difference.

Ummmm, actually a larger tyre will make the engine run at a lower rpm for the same vehicle speed..... The main reason for increased fuel consumption is the higher stance and thus increased wind drag. A smaller contributor is the larger, heavier tyre increasing rolling resistance and power requirements when accelerating.

In general, larger tyres will increase fuel consumption, although you may not be able to tell. What you need to be careful with is that the speedometer will read differently. If you use the odometer to calculate mileage, your numbers are all wrong. A 110 with those little tyres must look goofy.

Engine model?????

As I understand it, the TD retro-fit kit re-used the TD downpipe, so you are talking apples and oranges here. The production 200TDI downpipe has a bracket between it and the block. You "could" look in the part manual if you wished to see.

I was just thinking about this some more and there would be no way to prevent the heater tip from falling into the cylinder. That can't be a good thing. I'd pull the head. Fairly straightforward on this style of engine.

Ummmmm, yes there is a bracket..... ESR266 - Exhaust mounting bracket. Could take a picture later, but they don't cost much, so not much point in making your own.

Not on an aluminum head!! Eeek.....

All OME springs and shocks are firmer than stock.

That loadspace length is for a 3 door hard top, I assume. He'll want to know how long it is for a CSW.

Phone... It is just one guy... He is there. He is very helpful and fair.

They aren't using the R380 anymore...... The engine would come with a gearbox......

You don't need a larger intercooler to increase fueling. Fueling increases have no impact on the intercooler duty. You have to mess with the turbo for that to happen. The larger intercooler just keep charge temperatures down when you have extended periods at full boost and higher engine speeds. The can help reduce EGTs if you run in this way.

It is just the axles... They "could" put in stronger axles if they wanted to. They do have access to Ford buying power...... They don't have to keep using the same low volume carp that they have been dishing out for decades.... If Jeep can sell diff locked Dana 44 axled trucks for much less than Rover sells a Defender, one could imagine Ford could manage.......

Yep they work great with any turbo. Even very good with VNT turbos to prevent spikes.

http://www.boostvalve.com/

Well, shortening the rod is "really" not the correct way to adjust wastegates. The spring is designed for the factory setting. IMO, a boost valve or similar is a better idea. It will also give better boost control and much easier adjustment.

Sounds like the gauge is not reading correctly. Check the thermostat as well (pull it and put it into boiling water).

From what I have seen, a Truetrac will be about the same price, so just get one of those. Unless you can get one from a breakers.

Because the radiator is removing all of the heat.... If it is doing that, then the fan does not need to come on. A fan is only needed when the radiator is discharging hot water. If the engine was overheating, you have a serious problem somewhere else.

The bottom hose needs to be hot for the switch to turn the fan on. You said it is cold.......