Ex Member

It is described in the manual, http://www.landrover.ee/est/varia/downloads/downloads.htm On the right hand side of the engine near the rear is the fuel lift pump. This has a lever on it for priming. Crack open the air bleed on top of the fuel filter and pump the lever until no air bubles come out. There is also an air bleed on the injection pump which should be bled after the filter.

At least the battery did not explode. Nothing like boiling acid all over you to ruin a nice day out.

I think this is a stock battery hold down. The threaded hooks are the same as used in any other car (at least around here) and can be found at any auto parts store.

When it is overheating, do you HEAR the fan. If the fan clutch is working the fan will make enough noise to hear over the engine when it locks up. If you can't hear it, the coupling is dead.... Not uncommon. Just because it is new means little. Now the viscous are better than electric argument You can get electrics that pull more air than engine fans and you can get ones that pull less..... All fans are not created equal. People need to know what they are doing instead of making random decisions based on internet opinions.

It is very typical for this to happen. The brake sits out in the weather with no seals and steel components. It rusts open. 90% of old 8274 have this condition. After a rebuild, keep it lubed. If outside, keep it covered. And lastly, leave the winch slightly tensioned to keep the brake normally actuated. this helps keep the water out. http://members.shaw.ca/red90/8274_brake/8274_brake.html

4 mates!!!!! What, each with a beer in one hand? Easy to lift with 2 people, IME.

Current models are 1.211

But did not the input splines change at one point??

I just put in a 200TDI replacing a 2.5NA and the 200TDI sender works properly with the old gauge. There should not be a difference. The 200TDI retrofit manual says nothing about a need to change the gauge. Is it a Defender 200TDI or a Disco 200TDI??

Nooing ow two spel s noot kneededd round heir.

Is there any particular reason you ask??

Oh you are lifted............. It is helpful if you mention these things first. Your castor is low or negative. That causes the symptoms that you describe. Some people don't mind. Personally I can't live with it. Three choices if you stay with the lift... 1) Adjusted swivels to correct the angle 2) Cranked radius arms. 3) Castor correction bushes.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=31 Have fun

IMO, these type of injectors can not be cleaned. He could increase the power by adjusting the injector pump, as it is easy to do, however, in my opinion an EGT gauge should be fitted to make sure that unsafe levels are not reached. There is nothing to do with the turbo other than increasing the boost and unless it is out, it should not be increased on a 300TDI.

Well yes the threaded hole is for removing the drum. Not sure why Les doesn't want you to use it. Should be 8 mm IIRC. IME, using the threaded hole is the normal way to remove drums. They get a groove in them and the shoes can stick on them. Thread bolt into hole, tension a bit. Then wack drum with hammer. Repeat. It'll come.

You need to be a little more clear.... Which year Defender and which year Disco? Nominally they have the same differentials plus or minus depending on model year and such.....

Not all alternators have the correct connection. Neither of the alternators that I have/had on my 90 had the connections. If the connector does not exist, you need to take the back off and add a connector to one of the three main leads coming out of the alternator before the rectifier. Note that AFAIK, only VDO tachs will read from alternators. Most other brands are designed for petrol engines. Here is a picture of one from my 2.5NA (Blue wire to tach), but they can be quite different.

:blink: Have you seen a Defnder before??

Where would the rear doors go??

Real story......... The differential in question was designed by the Salisbury Axle Company, which was purchased by Spicer in the 1918. Spicer became Dana in 1946. The "salisbury" axle used in Rovers have a Dana Model 60 differential. The axle assemblies are built by GKN which has many close ties with Dana. http://www.dana.com/centennial/timeline/early.shtm

Crickey, you don't ever believe the sketches in the parts books do you??? I think the sketch artist at LR died twenty years ago.

I agree. I can't see how the "wrong" CV joint would fit in at all. There are no joints with "slight" differences that I know of. I would suspect either just a bad joint or an installation error.

Ahhh, I see. Most vehicles (LR included) run a cable to the starter solenoid and then a heavy cable to the battery. The starter solenoid post acts as the central hub for the 12V supply to the vehicle.

1: Have you inspected the brakes?? Have you adjusted the drums?? 3: Normal yes. Problem maybe. Just live with it until something starts acting up..... 4: I "think" they are 1/8" BSP, but could be wrong... The cheapest way to add to the snorkel it to weld on fittings. 5: The one around the center of the axle is the fill/drain. 7: Round peg, square hole!!! Should be square. No sure how a round cable can be forced to turn. Not sure what you have there. PRC6022, I believe for 4 cylinder right hand drive.

It is not the battery cable that should be the concern. It is the cable from the alternator to the starter solenoid. Just run a bigger one if there is any doubt.