cieranc

What I was thinking. Is it actually stripped and string-lined now, so you can see the full extent of the damage? We rebuilt a 6.5ton Iveco last year, it'd had a minor roll. We stripped the body and subframe off it (tilt and slide recovery vehicle), but it wasn't until the cab came off it that the bow in the front part of the chassis was evident. By this time there'd been a lot of work done, so forward seemed the only way to go. After the cost of having the chassis jigged, the man-hours involved in straightening the cab, replacing the steelwork on one corner of the bed, rebuilding the suspension, it wasn't a cost effective excersize. Had we have known the full extent of the damage in the first place, we wouldn't have rebuilt it. Our fault was, we only looked the chassis by eye, from underneath. We should have string-lined it properly to check the dimensions. Bear in mind that as you weld the outer part of the chassis, you'll burn the galv on the inside. It will need waxoyling inside once done. A chemical dip won't take the original galv off properly, the only way to do this is to have it blasted (with a proper blaster, not one of those machine mart bucket jobs). Even then, the new galv won't take to the old galv on the inside of the chassis very well. Sure the job's worth less that the price of a new galvy chassis?

In what way do you think it's wrecked? Is the cap physically damaged?

Yes, in the centre of each clip is a straight round plastic rod. Get something the same diameter and push the plastic rod into the clip, right in until it comes out the other side. Now the clip should pull out.

MVH 742F Land Rover All Other Models 3528cc 70-90 Who knows??

Definately not The square drive of the speedo gear is vey thin, and quite fragile. Put pliers on that and it will just snap off. I found this out the hard way I used a large flat bladed screwdriver on the edge of the drive, and clouted it to free it out.

2x T shirts in XL please

Brilliant Dave, thanks for that. So this is going to be beneficial to my intercooler install then.

It would be brilliant if you could measure them, to give me an idea how much further forwards it sits. Or a photo of both if you have time, would be a huge help! Cheers, Cieran

That looks a good setup, one exhaust reducer and one 51mm U bend silicone hose. The fat end of the exhaust reducer would fit nicely into the rubber air trunking, leaving two parallel 52mm male ends, would join perfectly by getting a long 52mm 180* hose and cutting one end down to suit.

I found this out recently, for the first time in a long time I've actually had to buy some oil! Usually get it from work FOC. Anyway, I'd just finished welding up a new front diffpan for my 110's front axle, made the pan out of the bottom of a propane cylinder. It's a bit bigger than the standard so a bit more oil needed. No EP90 left at work, bugger. The place we buy our oils off, a local independant oil merchants, closes at 4.30, it's now 4.20 and they're a couple of miles away. So I decided to go to Halfords, knowing they'd have some, and they'd be open. 1 Litre of EP90 in Halfords was £7.49, now it's a long time since I'd bought oil but I knew that was expensive! The oil merchants was just around the corner from Halfords so I flew round in the off chance there was still someone there, there was, they're open 'til 5 now 5 Litres of EP90 in there was £9.60, result!

Hi all, I'm in the process of fitting an intercooler to my 1987 200TDi (Def spec) 110. The intercooler is a snug fit to say the least. I'm aware that air-con grilles stand a little further forward of the wings, to allow for the air-con fans to be in place. This sounds like a good move to help with my install. Problem I have is that I've never actually seen an air-con Def, or know anyone who has one, so I've nothing to go by. I expect the front panel would be replaced and the standard grille just refits into the new front panel. Is this the case? Does anyone have pictures of an air-con grille fitted (just so I actually know what it looks like), know how much extra space it gives or have part numbers/diagrams of the air-con grille and front panel? Long request, but I'd rather know if it would be practical than just go and buy one and find it to be of little use. Cheers, Cieran

On commercials, hitting the cast arm alone will not free the joint. The trick is to have a bar levering the top (threaded part, stick the nut back on a few turns) of the balljoint down. With you swinging on the bar, and striking the arm at the same time you'll have better luck. It's a bit of a balancing act doing this on your own though.

I found that the standard LandRover gauge was, well, vague, to say the least. My 110 wouldn't budge off 88 deg even when loaded to the hilt (overloaded) pulling a three ton plant trailer. I fitted a VDO gauge from Merlin Motorsport, and the sender to suit (5/8ths UNC I think), and now I can see the gauge move a degree or two at a time. The gauge comes steadily up from cold, to 92 deg. You can 'see' the stat opening and the temp drops to just under 90*. If I work it hard you can see the gauge creep up to 95, where the fan cuts in, then drop back down to 88*. Really made a world of difference to mine, I actually believe what the gauge is saying now

This needs the ball replacing as it's pitted, everything else is ok. I was just wondering if I could simply remove the swivel pins (as thats all that holds the housing to the ball), unbolt the seal off the back of the housing and lift out the full assembly, rather thn having to strip the full hub/housing. Cheers peoples

I've just replaced all the legs on my 110 with Britpart bits. I also noticed the front end was high, I second checked I had the correct spring in the correct place! The coils at the bottom of both front springs wern't as tightly wrapped as the original springs they replaced. I just assumed this was due to the originals sagging. But within a week the front has come down to where it was originally, and the bottom few coils on the front springs have compressed more, looking more like the originals. Two chains of thought here, either the new springs are defective as they've sagged like the old ones or, there was nowt wrong with the original (22year old) springs I replaced!

It's late and I'm tired and can't be bothered to go out and have a look I fitted a new oil seal to the near-side swivel ball a while ago by unbolting the ball off the axle, and lifting the whole lot out. The ball was in good condition but the seal had failed. Now the off-side is leaking, due to pitting on the ball. Question is: is replacing the swivel ball as easy as removing the brake caliper and the two swivel pins and lifting the hub off the ball, or does it require a full strip as per workshop manual? Cheers peeps

I do a lot of commercial recovery at work. Went out to a double drive DAF 95 last week, prop had let go, loose end wedged into the chassis, tractor unit spun, jacknifed. Container on the trailer hit the cab hard enough to put a lovely straight crease right down it. Eighty grands worth of tractor unit written off, a twisted trailer and a scratched ISO container! Some commercial vehicles fit a prop retainer made out of flat steel bar. The same shape as the picture of the strap, but with a cross brace above the prop, like an upside down "A". We've had an Izuzu in the workshops with a failed prop, driver was doing 56 on the motorway, and I've got to say that retainer did a pretty fine job of limiting damage. The retainer was bent well out of shape, but the prop never hit anything else. One new prop, one new retainer, job jobbed!