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Andrew Cleland

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About Andrew Cleland

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    Cambridge, UK

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  1. Thanks all, I'll go to Paintman's link instead. The old one did work after Christmas, last time I bought bits for the D2, but defo. offline now. A.
  2. Just tried to use cat.lrparts.ru for the first time in a month or so and not getting the usual interface to Microcat. Is it just me or is the parts catalogue not available anymore? Be a right shame if it's gone as it was very useful (unless there's an alternative I don't know about).
  3. Just got a new clutch kit for the Td5 - clutch kit is a Valeo and came with a Valeo release bearing, the kind suppliers also put an NSK one in the box. Any thoughts on which is better - the NSK one looks like a traditional clutch release bearing, quite rounded; the Valeo is much more angular. I'm leaning towards Valeo bearing on a Valeo clutch.
  4. Yeah, I'm kind-of in agreement - it's such a lot of work to get to it, it's silly not to, but it is £200... I've not great issues with DMFs, they do smooth out the drive and probably make life easier for the gearbox and at the end of the day if this one is original it's done 130,000 miles so for £200 that's not bad. I certainly wouldn't replace it with a solid one - I can't see the already not-very-tough R380 liking that.
  5. Just got the gearbox out as the input shaft bearing has collapsed and decided to do the clutch whilst it was accessible, the release springs are looking fairly worn. Of course with the clutch off I look at the DMF but can't work out if it's shagged or not. There has been a fair selection of noises from the area and I did originally think DMF but then seeing the gear box input shaft flop around like a fish out of water I guess that's probably the main issue. Anyhow the DMF has a bit of rotary movement, which is should have of course, and it seems within the three teeth on the ring gear that LUK suggest (it's actually a Valeo DMF but getting anything from their website is hopeless). It also has some side to side play, i.e the hold one edge and you can push and pull it back and forwards. LUK say 2.9mm 'sideplay' but it's not obvious how to measure this. Should it be able to wobble like that? Finally the clutch face looks like it's got quite warm to me - see photo. Bearing in mind it's about £200 over just a clutch, is it worth/does it need replacing?? BTW - is Valeo original fit? Might give me an idea whether it's the original flywheel or not.
  6. Dropped the gearbox on the D2 today as knocking noises suggested the DMF was on it's way out. Input shaft on the R380 points to a different source of the sound... https://photos.app.goo.gl/hYGfnPHNG3MFrxgO2 I imagine this is probably one for Mr Ashcroft's emporium...
  7. http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b06nt6c7/the-kennedys-6-camping Was pointed to the above programme (sorry, link might not work outside the UK) about holidays in a Land Rover having just had an interesting one of these. Whoever wrote the script clearly knows their Lucas starter motors and I'm pretty sure I've used a phrase "Listen to her, something's not right..." more than once.... Tidy Series 3 though.
  8. Thanks. Do you remember what size torx bit it was? A. Edit - don't worry, found it, T50.
  9. Just drove from UK to Italy in our 2004 td5 110 and got the red battery charging light lit just as we crossed the Brenner pass into Italy. We made it to our destination near Padova although it was a bit of a tense drive - a td5 will run for 3 hours on a full battery with everything electrical that can be turned off, off. Anyhow this morning I checked and the battery is too flat to start it now. Had a poke around and all the wiring looks OK so I'm guessing it's the alternator that's died, either brushes or voltage regulator probably. If it's the original (I don't know) it's done over 180,000 miles, so understandable if it has died. I've got a new alternator coming out on Monday thanks to Brit Car but have a very limited set of tools here. I can get some brought out but I don't have the spanners to remove the viscous fan either here or in the UK. Is it essential to get it out of the way or can the job be done with it in-situ, maybe by removing the inlet manifold? If I could do it without draining the coolant system that would be a bonus. Also beyond the usual metric sockets are there any special tools needed, I've seen mention of a torx bit? Finally if there's anyone near Arqua Petrarca with tools or expertise, we have food, wine and lots of olive oil to offer!
  10. Hopefully this question isn't quite as stupid as it sounds! Do you need to drain the oil from the LT230 transfer box before changing the front output shaft oil seal? The current one is leaking reasonably well but I only changed the oil a few months ago (when I put the box, a Disco 1.222:1, in), so I'd rather not drain it and risk contaminating the oil. I was wondering if the level of the output shaft is actually bathed in oil or whether it only gets oil thrown into there by the spinning gears - if it's the later, I can probably do the change without draining the box...
  11. Same here - sold a car about a month ago, sent off the V5 on day of sale, got the slip back confirming I'm no longer the registered keeper a couple of weeks ago, still no tax refund though... Just seems a really ar$e-backwards way of screwing-up a system that, particularly since the arrival of online renewals, was working pretty well.
  12. Thanks both, I'll take them as OK then. A-frame joint is a possibility, but from memory of the last one I did, can be a right sod to get at/out. I'll have a play with the jemmy and see what I can find! A.
  13. I'm noticing a bit of knocking coming from the back-end of the 110 going over speedbumps and the like. Exhaust seems solid so started looking at the suspension. I spotted a bit of a gap between the steel plate and the rubber on the rear lower arm bushes, so I removed the nuts, copperslipped the threads and fitted new Nyloks torqued to the Mr Haynes specified 131ft.lbs but the gap is still there. Is this normal, are these standard bushes - I didn't think Land Rover bushes had the big washers at each end, but it's an ex-police 110 and they assured me they only used Genuine Parts for servicing...
  14. So I spent a couple of hours with the Landy on Saturday (makes it sound like a 'relationship', which isn't entirely inappropriate...). Started with the damper - put the big spanners onto the viscous fan to remove it and while trying to position them for belting with a hammer the fan came undone - it wasn't exactly loose but it certainly wasn't big spanner and hammer tight. Anyhow, took the fan off, released the belt tension and had a good feel of the crank pulley (oh er missus, etc.) - it felt fine, no obvious play either rotational or big-forth. Not having a replacement bolt or much time, I decided against taking the pulley off for a closer inspection. Next I took off the cam cover and checked that the injector codes matched the ECU settings, which they did. I also checked the injector clearances - cylinder 2 was a little on the loose side, almost two turns from the plunger being seated, the others were all pretty fine. Finally I took a look at the wastegate. I managed to get the actuator rod disconnect from the wastegate and the wastegate itself was moving very freely, no stiffness at all. The actuator seems OK, moves if you pressurise it with a bike pump. I gave it a drop of oil anyhow and put it all back together - didn't change the adjustment on the actuator rod at all. Outcome is that tightening that injector pump seems to have removed a slight tappety noise at idle. I *think* the vibrations may have lessened as well - there still is something there which I noticed overtaking a Freelander(!) but I didn't have the Nanocom connected so it may just have been reaching revs that Td5s don't like - it did seem to be higher up the rev range. (I've slightly screwed-up my diagnostics by installing a Wright Offroad soundproofing kit as well, so everything is quieter than before - I had one in my old V8 110 and they really are good). One thing that I am curious about is that I don't seem to be reaching full boost - it should be over 200kPa I think before the wastegate opens. We don't have many hills here to test it but even flooring in third doesn't get much over 120kPa. I can also hear hissing compressed air as I work up through the gears - is this normal or is there a leak (it sounds cool, a little like a dump valve, but I'm not sure it should be there)? A.
  15. Thanks morgan - it's a possibility definitely. V8freak and I had a look at it a couple of nights ago and the wastegate was pretty stiff - I'm giving the actuator daily doses of penetrating oil. V8freak has very kindly lent me his Nanocom so I can watch the boost pressure on the Nanocom and see if it's link to the vibes. Neill also lent me viscous fan spanners so I shall take the fan off tomorrow and have a look at the damper pulley. A.
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