jimmy_neutron
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Posts posted by jimmy_neutron
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Picked up a webasto thermo top v cheap recently. Its the one with the 8 pins and w-bus, and is fitted to the disco 3.
I want to fit mine to my old defender.
Anyone ever done one or got any ideas for wiring or a way round the bus ?
Though not
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Lancaster do a fantastic deal on Landys
I agree. Tried NFU and they seem to be getting picky about any mods at all.
Lancaster seemed to employ someone who understood the whole landy thing and was fairly cheap.
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Picked up a webasto thermo top v cheap recently. Its the one with the 8 pins and w-bus, and is fitted to the disco 3.
I want to fit mine to my old defender.
Anyone ever done one or got any ideas for wiring or a way round the bus ?
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Hi one and all
I am having a bit of a problem with my fuel gauge on the 1994 110 defender, i thought i had a faulty sender unit and have changed it but still have the some problem in being that the gauge reads full all the time. Is it a short in the wiring loom or do you think it might be something else?
Cheers Adam
It is most likely a short in the loom.
12v is supplied to the gauge. Then goes to the sender. then to earth.
So good check is to remove the wire from the sender. If it is still reading a full tank then the sender is ok.
Could also be the gauge.
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an update (for those that care) :cry:
A friend who owns a garage has had the TD5 in and checked the glow plug and they all look ok, as we're out to the Alps soon I asked him to give it a good service ready for the winter......
As he started we had a peek in the water header tank thing (sorry I'm not technically minded at all) and we found it full of a oil:water mix......more oil than water :cry: :cry: head gasket??????
So how many hours does it take for a good mechanic to change a head gasket and is there anything else I should get him to do at the same time??
Its not something you should be getting the garage to rush. Changing the head gasket is a few hours work. The thing you need to know is what caused it and what other damage has been done.
If the head needs skimmed then its a machine shop job which will cause further delays.
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I'm looking for something a little more aggressive than the ST (and quite like the tread pattern of the SST
)Try silverline 4x4.
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Just a quick question...........I've just bought a 2001 TD5 Defender which has done 86,000 miles.
Seems to run fine and so far hasn't missed a beat (750 miles in 2 weeks).
That said I've noticed that when I start it up quite a lot of white smoke comes out of the exhaust....is this the sign of something serious or just one of those things??
Dont use the throttle when starting ??
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i currently have my spare wheel mounted on my back door.
I was thinking of putting it on my bonet using bolts etc holding it on rear door.
Is it easy to do or do i need new parts to do it ? there are 3 bolts which hold it on.
Any problems with extra weight on bonet??
Also i would have to repair the holes in rear door.
Cheers
Ally
Was it not made illegal in some way to carry the wheel on the bonnet due to restricting the view of the road ?
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Hi Mo
- i have checked it.....the bulb is on all the time....and the gauge is showing full.....a total contradiction!!!!
Grrrrrrrrrrrr
That sounds like a short to earth.
When the ignition is on 12vdc is sent permenantly to the low fuel light. It is the box behing the dash the does the switching on the -ve side to determine whether the light is on or off.
If the tank always readsfull then take both wires off the sender as a test and see if it makes any difference. If it stays showing full the trace back the short wire by wire until you end up crawling behind the dash.
IIRC the higher the resistance the emptier the tank.
Short to earth gives full tank.
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I remember seeing a valve spring compressor for fords that allowed ya to replace valve stem oil seals without removing the head.
Can ya get one for a 200tdi ?
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a year or so ago my engine was running cold. I traced this to a faulty Stat which was not fully closing.
After i changed the stat it ran at 2/3 the way across the temperature guage.
I calibrated the guage by removing the engine temperature sensor and using a thermometer etc.
I found that 2/3 was about 91' and that vertical on the gauge was about 85'.
As the stat doesn't open till 88' i thought it must be the guage at fault and did nothing about it.
I always planned to fit a VDO guage, but aint got round to it yet.
Everyone on ere talks of an 88' stat going into a 200tdi. However by accident i looked on page 3.1 in the haynes manual and it clearly says that it should be an 82' stat and my temp guage seems to agree too.
Any opinions ??
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Hi All..
When leaving the pub last night, I tried starting my 90 and it would seem the ignition barrel has failed. You put the key in and the first few movements are ok, it turns the ignition on, the aftermarket immobiliser turns off etc. when you go to start the engine the key would normally move further round (to engage starter motor) and then back to the normal on/running position - with mine the key moves round further but nothing happens, if you give it a bit of a wiggle when going back to the on/normal running position it sometimes starts!
I am assuming the ignition barrel is at fault here, but you know what they say about assumption! If it is at fault, can anyone point me in the direction of a cheap source and maybe a tech thread on replacement?
Thanks,
Matt
About as cheap as they get new ... http://www.paddockspares.com/sp/category/D...__Switches.html
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Just fitted a Kenlowe fan to my 300Tdi Auto.
Kenlowe say the gauge should read 2/3 before the new fan kicks in. On a hot day, with no viscous fan and Kenlowe off, engine drive hard and then ticking over for 30mins - the gauge never goes over it's usual 1/3. Like this, the fan will be redundant.
Started it from cold this morning and the thermostat does not allow pump to pass anything through rad for ten minutes. Drive it round the block to reach 1/3 temp and the stat allows water to flow around the rad.
Can I get a stat in a hotter grade?
Take the stat out, boil it in a pan with a thermometer and see what temperature it opens at.
IIRC ERR3291 is for your car. Again IIRC its temp is 88'.
Chances are you may have an 80 or 82' stat.
Easy to check in the pan though.
Remember not to have the thermometer on the bottom of the pan. Thermostat is ok on the bottom of the pan though.
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Thanks for that Jimmy.
I've searched regarding Pollack reliability but can only find problems on a 5 year old US forum which had more to do with solenoid operated valves rather than motorised valves. Can you point me at a couple of sources please Jimmy so that I can have a look ?
I'm going to stay with one gauge and yes, it's a very simple job to wire to switch gauge readouts
Cheers
Mo
http://www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/forum/...ad.php?tid=2431
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f37/fake-pol...sion-46543.html
http://www.biofuelsforum.com/svo_users/490...ve_failure.html
There a more, but you get the idea.
People suspect copies, but are they ???
May be temperature issue which you wont struggle with, but is it??
In the end it came down to, ones people suspect as copies fail with no fuel to the engine, and the others fail leaving fuel from one tank only, but both tend to fail.
Tecalemit valves when doing the same search talk about nothing to do with failure at all.
How do you know for absolute certain that the part you buy is the genuine articale anyway ?
Like i said, i took the easy option and just stayed away.
Oh ... and get on with the job !
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It's a big of an odd one this......
I have a 2008 Double Cab which I used to transport my German Shepherd around in - I had a Trojan back made for it so he couldn't chew his way out of the std canvas back. Cutting a long story short I lost my dog to a brain tumour about a month ago and we are now looking at getting a Leonberger pup. These dogs are massive when fully grown but need to be protected / prevented from jumping up and down into vehicles until they're about 18 months old. I have ordered a "dog door" to fit inside the Trojan so the tailgate (and window) can be opened without the dog getting out but I would like to incorporate some sort of steps or ramp onto the tailgate which would fold away when the tailgate is raised. The dog could weigh iro 75kg.
Has anyone seen or heard of a solution to this or is it just a case of speak to fabricators and see what they can come up with?
I have about 3 months before the pup arrives.
Ta
Mag
Not tried it or seen it but remember seeing it in their catalogue.
Try this.. http://www.robinsons-uk.com/products/searc...=ramp#sku.91980
The shop is near manchester. May be worth a run along the 62
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Exactly a Jim has said. An oily heater plug is a knackered heater plug.
Take them all out. Replace with a new set.
Test the old ones. Keep the good ones incase you just need one again.
mike
Thanx both.
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Nothing wrong with a P38, I know it's not 'extreme' but mine goes very well offroad.
Thats not off roading.
It looks like a farm track.
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It's duff.
the "clean" ones have burnt all the oil/diesel off of themselves, but the duff ones won't. stick a multimeter across it, you'll find it's open circuit.
oooohh ... Thats not the answer i was expecting.
Interesting thought.
I thought the answer would be valve stem oil seals goosed on no.3 but not on no.4 , so a head off job.
It was definately engine oil and not diesel.
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I think i know the answer to this one but want to double check.
I decided to replace the glow plugs cos they are about 4 years old.
I replaced no4 cos its easiest and it looked ok.
No3 however was covered in unburnt engine oil.
Why ??
No 1+2 are still to do cos it started to pour down and i wimped out.
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If you are using 2 tanks then you would need 2 of the above valves, wouldn't you ? Starts to get a bit pricey then I'm using a 6 port motorised valve from here which is a bit more reasonable and switches fuel gauge outputs too.
Mo
mmm. I remember struggling to justify the extra cost, but my thoughts were..
The pollak valve had reports of reliability issues. I think it was something to do with a glass internal part.
I've got 2 fuel gauges and like to have them as well. It is just a nice to have, but a good one and one i use.
You don't need anything special to make your fuel gauge change over when you flick the switch either as its a very simple wiring thing to do.
Another thought which i didn't do, but thought of ... Them tecalemit type valves were fitted to jaguars i think. May be worth doing a bit of research on this and a visit to the scrap yard.
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How about using a 3-way valve as shown on this page. An electric solenoid flicks between either tank to provide output to the third pipe I guess?
http://www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/products.html
They look ok ..... maybe.
The reason people use the tecalemit valves is that they have got a very proven track record. Probably decades now.
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Here they are, not my design, i just downloaded it off a site somewhere:
Yeah thats the kind of thing i want...
Nice one
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I'm just getting my bits together to fit a TD5 defender speedo and instrument panel etc in my 1991 van.
Also going to fit some extra gauges.
The best place for these gauges is probably in the centre where the radio is.
Don't want to loose the radio so was thinking of mounting it on the roof in some sort of roof mounted console. But they cost a fortune.
Also my headliner is just about dead and looks really tatty.
I've got some new car carpet in my shed which was gonna go to another vehicle. Anyone ever made a new headliner from car carpet ?
If so how did ya fit it to the roof?
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OK, this is how you check if your rev counter is correct (although I think they are a waste of time on a diesel anyway)
Mark the pulley on the diesel with tipp-ex or white paint.
Get a car with an accurate tacho, attach a timing light. Run the car to, say, 1000 rpm and point the timing light at the diesel pulley. When the paint mark stops the diesel is doing 1000 rpm as well. Then adjust the tachometer on the diesel to read 1000rpm.
I have a VDO non-adjustable tacho and had to change the pulley on the alternator to get it to read right. But it is the gauge I look at the least; if you have ears you will know exactly what revs the engine is doing without looking at a gauge. A boost gauge is much more interesting.
Clever ... would never of thought of that.
I got a boost gauge on order as well.
I got a mrs ... she drowns out the engine noise when she's in a one. Thus need the tacho
Ta
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Second Tank Suggestions
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I put a rear tank into a 90
may be of interest to you
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...l=jimmy_neutron