jimmy_neutron
-
Posts
557 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by jimmy_neutron
-
-
Took the pump lid off and everything looked fine.
A small amount of scoring on the lid but thats about it.
Did notice a bit of rotary play though. Presume this is normal...
Spent a day searching for the noise ..
Gonna pick up some valve caps tomorrow.
Old ones seem quite loose on the valve top. Again not sure, but presume the hole in the centre of the cap should be a snug fit on the valve stem and mine have quite a lot of sideways movement and kind of tip up a bit when in first contact with the rocker.
Worth a try for a tenner.
-
Cheers I'll check the stat. I only repaced it a couple of months ago as I thought it may be causing the problem. However when I tested them in a pan of water brought slowly to the boil the old stat opened up slightly before the new one although they were both marked 88 deg. Can't remember now if it had that bleed thing or not but I'll check. The needle sits just past half way when driving, a little too close to the red for comfort. I have no fan but I don't suppose it makes any difference whilst moving.
Mark
TBH it sounds like exactly the same road that i headed down.
I don't doubt anything that western says and the 88 stat probably is the right one. Problem is that i couldn't get an 88 degree stat to open at the same temp as my old one.
If ya do some internet searching (I did loads at the time), loads of people complain of their 200tdi's running just over half way. I even changed my radiator as i got convinced that it needed it.
Also drilled a 1.5mm hole in the stat plate. This caused the engine to take a decade to warm up and got to 3/4 on the needle when under heavy load anyway.
Some people, and i think western may have done this as well, fit a VDO guage out of a td5 as they apparantly read more accurately.
As you know i just fitted an 82 degree stat and all worked as it did.
I got an electric fan as well just in case you were wondering.
-
Pic of pump
Many thanks both..
I'll take the lid off tommorow.
Braking power is reduced from about 20,000 miles ago but not really bad though.
-
Yes, it sits on the engines right hand side just rear of the injection pump with a hose to the brake servo, it's driven off the camshaft & oil pump drive, remove the vacuum pump & check it's drive shaft & remove the top plate & check the 4 vanes [replacable] are intact.
the vanes are AEU2718 should be a set of 4 vanes.
Thank you very much sir.
Do you know if these do actually make a noise like badly adjusted tappets when worn ?
-
took pump out to do crank but it back together today but noticed pin had come out that times it up and dunno which way the cog has tuned.
i ve heard the pump does two turns to every on of the crank is this is rite how do i time it up properily
This is not recommended but is what i would do..
1) set the timing of everything else by the timing marks on the engine.
You now know that No1 is at TDC and therefore is about to enter the induction stage of its 4 stroke cycle. Therefore it is about to have fuel delivered by the injection pump.
Get the idea ?
2) slacken off / remove the metal pipes which go to the injectors and turn the pump by hand (clockwise i think) until fuel starts to come out of the pipe going to no1 cylinder.
3) Back the turns off a couple of degrees and you should be able to slide the pin back in.
B)
4) don't blow yourself up
-
I'm still trying to work out a tappetty noise that i'm getting.
Gonna try borrow a compression tester tomorrow to eliminate the worst as the tappets are set to correct gap.
When looking at the price of parts i noticed that a few places like paddocks etc list a brake vacuum pump for a 200tdi.
I thought these were only fitted on the 300tdi ??
I know these can make some weird noises when they get worn but does my 200tdi have one and if so where ??
-
Yeah I'll get the injectors checked, there's a bit of black smoke under acceleration which I guess is also a sign of overfueling.
Don't suppose anyone knows where to take them in the Lincolnshire area or is it best to send them away?
Went out on a short journey today and ran Ok, no sign of sparks and knocking noise not apparent although engine didn't even get up to temp.
Thanks for your suggestions
Mark
When you say you replaced the gasket, does that mean that you also had the head skimmed / polished ?
If so
Landrover say that a 200tdi should not be skimmed, although personally i would do it if needed.The reason they say not to skim the head at all is cos its known to them that the valves will touch the tops of the pistons.
The way around this is to seat / recess the valves in slightly deeper.
Also if ya getting the injectors checked be aware that most 'specialists' say that they can check the spray pattern / injectors but in fact they are only able to check the first stage. The normal problem with 200tdi injectors is not going into the second stage which causes underfueling or stubborness as i call it.
Temp just above half way could be if ya decided to replace the thermostat whilst having the engine stripped down. Everyone and their dog states an 88degree stat. However mine always ran slightly hot with an 88 stat. Reason being an 88 stat starts to open at 88 meaning the coolant temp was around 95. I fitted an 82 degree stat which means my actual coolant temp is 88/89 degrees and strangely my temp needle sits bang on half way.
-
If the problem does turn out to be with the battery after all - just drop us a line and it will be replaced by return.
Si
So nice to hear of good and friendly service.
Can't u buy out land rover and shake up the whole dealer experience?
-
ok disco fuel gage was working but after i filled it up it sat on empty and has stay there with the light on since so any ideas or quick fix solution to this when i test drove it it was sitting just above empty this only happends once i filled it up i take it the float is stuck or broken
any help much needed
(its a 300tdi)
I had this on a defender. Was the sender in the tank. You may find that it reads empty when full to the brim and when empty, and reads ok when you have used some fuel out of the tank.
This would be due to the copper track on the sender being worn out.
-
After replacing the head gasket and sorting out a couple of problems (missing injector washer and pushrod not located correctly). I thought I'd sorted it. It now seems to have developed a noise coming from the manifold side of the engine. Sounds like a heavy knock at idle which becomes more high pitched as revs increase.
Then last night driving home in the dark I thought I'd try going flat out a up steep incline. Went fairly well (doesn't seem to lack much power) and temp gauge sits just past half way once warmed up. However much to my horror I could now see sparks being emitted out of the exhaust. This carried on for a couple of minutes and now seems to have cleared, I noticed the car following kept a respectable distance!
I no expert with engines so does anybody know what might cause this, I presume it's not a good sign!
Mark
Did you replace the head gasket with one of the correct thickness ???
They have got dots on them to show how thick they are. replace it with one thats too thin and you may get colisions + sparks.
-
How many miles has the engine done?
also is it more of a clacking noise?
Recently a friend of mine had his 200tdi over revved at an MOT and he suddenly had a really bad clacking noise.
he said it wasnt using any oil either, and was not losing any power, just clacked really loudly.
We stripped the head and checked all the clearences and the injectors and they were all fine.
It turned out to be one of the little end bearings....
Just a thought....
Grant
Its more of a ticking that a clacking although noises are a bit of a funny thing. it sounds just like a mk1 fiesta, all tappetty.
I took the lid off the engine again to make sure i havn't done anything wrong or missed something. All the rockers are really loose and i'm starting to wonder if that's the problem. Maybe my rocker shaft is worn ??
I set all clearances to 0.20mm as stated by haynes. Is this correct?
After setting to 0.2 i noticed that the rockers had no resistance at all to move. They could be pushed the final .2mm with a feather. Is this normal cos i seem to remember most engines have a small amount of resistance when shifting them.
Am i still barking up the wrong tree ?
-
Diesel needs to be cool, if it's too hot apparently it loses its lubricity. Thats what I was told anyway. Wer your injectors new or reconditioned?
Injectors were new not just recon..
Today i replaced the fuel lift pump and found that the old one was u/s.
Now goes alot better but still got the tappetty noise. Only happens when the engine is at full temperature. Even if i stop the engine for 2 mins and then go again it is fine till it gets fully hot.
Its much worse after along hill climb.
-
Does it smoke at all? It could be a diesel knock you are hearing rather than the tappets, might be worth checking the inj pump timing.
Injection pump timing checked out ok.
Could it be the lift pump ????
-
My 200 Tdi did the same thing, sounded just like loose tappets but the adjustment was spot on. At the time I had a fuel heater fitted to run on veg oil, but was running on diesel. I removed the heater and the noise disapeared.
Based on my experience I would say it could be the injectors.
Fuel injectors should be good as they have only done 15,000 miles.
Interested though that you removed the fuel heater and the noise disapeared. Can't get my head around how that could be.
It does seem a little guttless so unless you were experiencing fuel starvation... Can this cause this kind of noise ????????
-
I would say valve clearances and valve caps (a little cap that sits on the top of the valve). During a trip to Italy this year, we had two vehicles (both 200tdi) that caused us problems - one self destructed ripping a rocker bolt from the head and bending the shaft, the other threatened to do the same (sounded like a tractor, had no power). I believe both were down to clearances you could drive a bus through, and a couple of caps missing-presumed-disintegrated.
Valve clearances are fine and i've got a full set of caps, although i didn't remove them to check for wear.
-
My 200tdi started sounding a bit tappetty about 10,000miles ago. At first it only seemed to be when the engine was hot and towing a heavy load and pulling out of a junction and high revs etc etc so i obviously just ignored it.
Its been getting slowly worse, to the point where it now sounds like its going to self destruct at about 2500rpm.
I have checked the valve clearances but have become stuck as the noise sounds exactly like a mk1 fiesta tappetty noise.
Only every happens when the engine is warmed up.
Any ideas please
-
I had to get some for a 90 recently and found LR main dealer to be the cheapest.
-
I'm in the process of rebuilding my 88" series 3 and need to re-wire the whole vehicle. Can't really afford a whole new loom from the likes of Autosparks and want to do the job myself encorporating an EDIS system and mega jolt. I realise that this is a big job but still want to give it a go as once completed I'll be able to modify or repair relatively easily. Should also mean that i can make the electrics relatively waterproof to take advantage of the EDIS. The engine is a 2.25 petrol. I know that whilst I'm planning the wiring system I need to calculate what cable to use. I know that i can culculate the ampage of wire required but need to know the watts consumed by the equipment to be supplied. How can i work this out so that I can work out what wire to use? Any help would be really appreciated.
The wire should be rated by the supply fuse rather than actual power consumption.
-
Many thanks for the advice.
I will check if removing the wire off the solenoid will cut off the engine.
I think the result will the dictate the remaining options to look for.
Regards
Lars
I seem to remember this as a common problem on the 300tdi.
As turbocharger said .. A shard of metal comes off the stop solenoid and intermittantly lodges itself in an inappropriate place.
It can cause the problem you describe and also can cause the car to just cut out when you least require it.
A magnet on a stick (think draper make one) may get it out.
-
Anyone know where i can get a wiring diagram for the Disco 3 ???
-
Can I confirm the legality of rear inward facing seats fitted to a post March 2006 vehicle.
My understanding these are legal for anybody over 12 years and at least 1.35 metres in height as long as lap belts are fitted for each passenger.
Is my understanding correct??
The Nene Overland site refers to as this "may" still being legal...
why might it not be??
Mucho gracias in advance....
My understanding is that it is still legal, but it is considered extremely unsafe to have sideways seats.
Personally i wouldn't take the risk.
I fitted the forward facing seats like what are in the back of the new station wagons. This of course limits me to 5 people but all of them have at least got a proper forward facing seat with a proper 3 point seatbelt.
-
This might be worth a look too...
http://sourceforge.net/projects/libwbus/
It's a library of software modules for talking on the wbus. The notes in the wbtool download say :-
"This is a compiled version of the wbtool utility included in the sources of the libwbus. If you want to play with your Heater without bothering compiling anything, this is what you want."
You'll probably have to install cygwin to get it to run.
It looks to still be current (updated recently).
Thanx for this.. It might be worth a play before buying anything else.
If it works then it will definately make this a cheap option for a winter heater.
Thoughts.. if the 1533 is bus compatable then the newer telestart units most probably are. Thus i will be able to start my heater from 1km away on a key fob. It'll just come down to price i think.
If i get it all working then i'll post some pics and a wiring diagram etc so it can be copied as this will a be a cheap way of using a webasto which is really cheap and only a couple of years old, cos the majority on the internet believe it to be useless.
-
Thanx all ..
Got a wiring diagram from LR for the disco 3. This confirms that the FBH must be started by w-bus.
This lead me to a load of googling. Which has led me to believe that the t91 telestart has a w-bus connection. Anyone got any circuit diagram or good info on one of these (or similar).
Also heard that the 1533 timer has got a w-bus connection, but asked someone on ebay and he said it doesn't. So again, antone got any info on this ??
-
OK, it's slightly different (being from a bus rather than having one) but....
I'm using a Thermo 300 - which cost me £3.00 (three pounds) form a breakers yard to heat my unit - along with a 24v power supply c/o eBay.
All the wiring diagrams are on the webasto site if you search. Plugged it in, dipped the fuel pipe + return in a jerry can of diesel - and away it went!
I now have it plumbed in to three domestic radiators via some adapters I made (as the water in and out are 38mm bore) and a 205l drum of heating oil for fuel.
Heating 500 sq foot, it uses about 500ml per hour on a cold day and heats the unit to a toasty 22C. It's a bit noisy (jet engine noisy!) - but boxed in it's OK.
If it's like mine, there are two connectors W1 & X3
X3 (8 way) only needs a 24v supply (12v in your case) to pin 5 and if you supply power to pin 6, it goes in to economy mode.
W1 (6 way) has 6 pins. 2 to ground, 3 & 4 to +24v. On/Off is activated by applying power to pin 1.
Si
Awasome unit + thanks but its the electrical bus i'm having bother with not the big red bus
does a 200tdi have a brake vacuum pump
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Noise sorted ... when i checked the tappets i noticed that the valve caps sometimes cocked over a bit when turning the engine by hand. I checked the caps for wear but really they were like new ... went all around the houses and ended up where i started.
Ordered part number LJC100270 and when they arrived i found that they have got a large chamfered edge with a recess in the bottom. My old ones where square edged with a recess in the bottom.
Anyway caps replaced with the ones with the new shape and noise gone and all sorted.