smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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I had Radar tyres on a Freelander 1 I had a few years ago. They were more road biased, but I dont remember any problems with them, except that they seemed to wear quickly.
I don't think they were remoulds or retreads.
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On 4/11/2023 at 1:09 PM, FridgeFreezer said:On 4/11/2023 at 1:09 PM, FridgeFreezer said:
Easier option might be to just swap the better injectors over from the 4.6 and the plenum if you want to be bling and leave the rest as it's either identical or doesn't really make a difference / can be ignored.
Fridge ..... Just out of interest and clarity, assume you mean the GEMS injectors ? Do you know if the green Thor injectors can be fitted to a Hotwire manifold ??
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What I have learned.
I have had five vehicles fitted with Webasto Thermo Top water heaters. Two were factory fit Freelander 1s, and the other three I have installed used units myself.
The main fuel line needs to be 1.5mm ID. I have tried the easily available and cheaper larger bore pipe, but it does not seem to work well, mainly causing the heater to cut out, or making it more difficult to get the fuel through.
The pick up dip tube should be minimum 40mm from the bottom of the tank, in order not to pick up sediment or water. Also to prevent inadvertently running out of fuel.
I have not had good results teeing into the main vehicle fuel pipe.
Replacement non genuine diesel pumps can be a bit hit and miss. I have found, after having problems with the heater starting OK but fuming at lot then cutting out. I have tried them on another heater and it works fine, as did the smoky one when subsequently fitted with another one. I believe that the heaters can be adjusted to suit with the correct equipment.
Non genuine glowplugs do not seem to work properly of for long. They also act as a thermocouple, and this can cause the heater to shut down if not working correctly.
As to your problem, I dont think a syringe will work, as too much fuel will not burn. As Hurbie has suggested, try drawing fuel from a can or whatever, then try a another replacement pump as it may have some carp stuck it it, then if no joy, try another genuine glowplug. I am not familiar with the Airtop, but I cannot think what else it could be, apart from a very unlikely blocked exhaust.
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Your old 3.5 bypass (purple) goes into the back of the water pump, which I think will still work.
The old 3.5 heater return goes to the metal pipe that runs underneath the manifold, then is joined by short rubber hose to the back of the water pump, OR a stub on the bottom hose connection, depending on what year. This does not exist on the 4.6 manifold, so you will either have to fix the metal pipe to the 4.6 manifold, or run a hose right through.
I assume you are going to use the old style thermostat in the manifold ?
I find it hard to believe the seller of the kit does not know how to do this.
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Hope this helps.
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I really dislike the new dash. Too bulky and just horrid. Not what a Land Rover is all about. IMO the 2.2 and 2.4 engines are carp for the same reasons that Chicken Drumstick has described.
Having had 22 land Rovers over 40 years, I would never have one as an only vehicle daily driver. Not because they are particularly unreliable, but because some jobs suffer from mission creep and take a lot longer than expected, and before you know it, the truck has been off the road for a week, or a month, and sometimes years.
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Whilst I would agree with Stellaghost regarding a JB weld repair, as I am sure it would work. If it were my own old head I would do it in a heartbeat.
However, I also agree with the others that you should not be doing this on a recon/remanufactured item, and it may well invalidate any warranty, so I should approach the supplier first.
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Last feedback was a few months ago. You could of course click Buy it now, then do not pay, I'm sure that will prompt a response if there is anyone there.
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Also used to be an avid reader, but not bought a copy for years. Chiefly because how many articles on changing brake pads or shock absorbers, or fitting extra lamps does one need to read ? Too many adverts etc, but as already said, the rise of the internet has killed off things like this.
However, there IS something a lot nicer in looking at a book or magazine rather than a screen.
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What sort of engine is it ? I will ask around here to see if anyone has anything. Unless you decide to go the six pot route !
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What about one of those Webasto parking heater pumps ? A cheap one at first to experiment with.
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I would try the other side with no shims first, with just the empty swivel. Might save you a trip !
Were there none fitted with the originals you could use ?
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Definitely caused by block not being uniformly hot enough.
JB weld might surprise you, but I would looking for a replacement block.
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I would not use rubber hose for any complete run. I would stick to Gates hose, and make sure it has J30R9 printed on it. I notice a lot of cheaper stuff has the spec on the packet, but not on the hose itself, just stating something like "fuel hose" and possibly the size.
E10 apparently leeches out any zinc. This will mean any plating on the inside of a metal fuel tank, and steel pipework. This is not in itself a problem, other than E10 also allegedly absorbs water, which can lead to rust problems in the tank, lines, and system components. The displaced zinc could also cause blockages in injectors.
E10 also, apparently attacks certain aluminium alloys, which again is a major concern for the fuel system components of older engines. In practise of course, only time will tell.
As Kunifer tubing is a copper/zinc alloy, I think this rules it out, sadly, and IMO, repeat IMO, copper tubing has no place on a motor vehicle, and yes I am aware that many people have copper brake pipes etc, but its your funeral, as they say.
If you look at any modern vehicle (all the ones I have seen in any case) use nylon or polyethylene pipes with either quick fit couplings, or short lengths of appropriate (hopefully) hose, with either spring or crimped clips. NOT "jubilee" type. They also have HDPE fuel tanks.
I would be looking at nylon pipes myself, with short joining lengths of rubber.
TBH this is another reason why I think I will stick to diesel.
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2 hours ago, steve b said:
I have to wonder if someone who is unaware of an open gullwing door should be driving at all?
....also, where are the electronic fail safe's to stop movement at anything more than a slow walking pace with the door up??
Steve
Going to be an interesting case for the insurance company.
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Apart from the obvious precautions regarding sucking in fumes, and making sure nothing can fall out, I would be more concerned about the spare wheel weight pulling on the hinges and possibly breaking them or the door itself. Unless it is mounted on a swingaway type carrier, I would be inclined to take it off and put it inside.
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3 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
But it was mostly full of bargain basement scrap components.
Maybe so, but they do look nice in the photo.
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1 hour ago, muddy said:
In the hubs? What year would you put it at?
In the drag link. What year ? I am not Dexta expert.com but the blue mudguards....... I will guess at 1962.
Main problem I see with block stitching, and to a lesser extent, welding, is that the block itself is structural to some degree, and that would worry me.
Six pot conversion is tempting though. I went down this road a bit, but that turned sour due to the engine being partially seized. I did not go further because of the costs, and also concluded that unless you are into tractor pulling competition, exceeding the design parameters in this way, only achieves using the fuel up quicker.
Might still do it though, although it would be a lot easier with the Dexta.
Keep an eye on Facebook Marketplace. I am always amazed what turns up there.
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1 hour ago, Junglie said:
Oh God... I thought my M5 was a money pit
I had better not comment for fear of upsetting the natives !
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Ooooh Tractors ! I have got a couple of Majors, with leaky liners, so I feel your pain !
Stitching is quite expensive, unless you can get the guys at Car SOS to do it for nothing. IMO, I also think you would be better off finding a used cylinder block or engine, unless there is a compelling reason not to, and I can't think of one, or are you an originality freak ? But as I see that you have the incorrect grease nipples fitted for that year, I guess not !
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Might have been glued in with bearing lock or similar because the thread was stripped, or corroded in place by the dreaded multi metal syndrome.
Presume you mean those stupid "easyout" left hand thread tapered tap things ? I have never, ever, managed to get a broken bolt out with them, and I think it is because they are tapered, and actually open up the broken bolt or stud in its hole, jamming it even more effectively.
I have seen some that are splined, but you have to hammer these in, so I suspect the outcome would be the same. However, I use a sacrificial torx bit instead, after drilling as big as I dare.
As regards your problem now, lets see a photo ?
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6 hours ago, Junglie said:
Well that's one thing at least that hasn't gone wrong. Thanks guys.
Dont worry, its a Land Rover. There will be plenty of other things to test your patience and temper.
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That crazing is quite common. It is caused by the die casting process, the mould itself being too cold for the molten metal, or so I was told years ago. Also can be caused by using recycled materials, which can have other things in the mix, and not using "virgin" materials.
That look like a vee belt engine, so fore and aft movement with the cover off is quite normal, as are leaking oil seals, once the wearing face on the pulley get a small groove in it.
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Its about volume rather than pressure, but that will only be a problem with the blast cabinet, a road drill, or an 1" drive impact driver.
Water trap at tank end. Maybe an inline oil for air tools if you must, but do NOT use the same hose for paint spraying, for hopefully obvious reasons.
As regards manifold or pipework, whatever suits you best. Mine is piped to a rigid pipe system with connectors at each end of the workshop and below workbench, only to save having long hoses all over the floor, which always seem to be knotted up.
The Little Engine Who Couldn't Puff - 2.25l diesel woes.
in Series Forum
Posted
Wouldnt bother with running in oil. Smith and Allen for your mineral oil. Direct or via ebay.
If you are concerned about the nuts, you could always apply some locking compound.