Orange

Bringing this back to the top, rather than start a new thread... Can anyone give me a part number for the green/yellow/red progressive springs? I'm also intrigued by the last comment about TD5 station wagon progressives... Any more information available? It seems that an awful lot of these springs aren't recorded on any of the LR spring bibles. The reference to green/yellow/red springs for example gives details that they are rear 90 HD springs... I'm also considering the pink/purple progressives as shown for the Range Rover EFI. Anyone have any experience of these? They seem to be a good spring rate but may be a little too tall even with a bit of extra weight on the front... Ta Adrian

Afternoon all! Simple question for you all... Can I fit high-back second row seats into a 110 double cab? I know there is some space between the back of the standard seats and the bulkhead, but is it sufficient for the angle of a high-back seat? Thanks in advance... Adrian

Top job. Sorry I wasn't about to help!! Do all of the tow bar mounting holes line up? Just the rest of the truck to make shiny now...

A 5000lbs winch would pull most upright, but it depends how deep and sticky the mud is. I have an EP9 for a centre winch and isn't struggling to cope with my lardy 90... As for using the rear winch as a centre, try running the line to a snatch block and back to the cage. We used that technique several times before biting the bullet and fitting a centre winch too... Start each event with a couple of small strops attached to the cage, or weld on a couple of extra hook points... Hth Adrian

Few odds and sods to remedy before this one, but nothing major. Should be good for a BBQ too if there's one on offer... Cough, cough Tom!!! Might even brave the camping this time, too...

Seriously, Dave, with the site the way it was, I can understand why Ben and Pete went for that punch!! Waist-line deep water is a lot easier to clean off than the waist-line deep mud that was the rest of the site, believe me!! Also, you have to bear in mind the weather conditions presented to the organisers. No rain for approximately 2 weeks, so the site was better. Then, after setting out the site on the Saturday, the heavens opened over night and when we got back to the site in the morning we were presented with a whole different access road, let alone the course!! If you want to have a look back through the Challenger pictures from last year, you will see what the series is all about and how the organisers set it out. A rough idea is that there are 10 fairly simple punches, 20 mid range and 10 at the harder end of the scale. This obviously varies slightly at each event due to the conditions and the available areas of the sites. I do hope that noone who is considering entering the Challenger Series is put off by this one event. And I also hope that we won't be returning to the site...

This site was different and there were only 3 out of 40 punches that involved water that deep... Although the majority of the other punches mainly involved either deep mud or quagmire - the site isn't called Muddy Bottom for nothing. The restrictions of the site are evident across the scoring range. Where we were averaging 30+ punches at each event last year, even the winner at this round only managed 26... The next round will be a lot different as the site allows more variety in the setting out department, so please don't let one event put you off...

We had a go at the last round of the HW last year and whilst we didn't do too badly, the atmosphere and inter-team spirit wasn't there... We proved to be a little slower than some in places and to be honest I got fed up with others sitting right behind me and in the way when I was trying to winch and/or manoeuvre. I understand it's a competitive event, but...

Sounds like a mechanic getting his foot in the door with the promise of a cheap easy fix, only to discover a far more significant problem and leave the owner with a much bigger bill...

^^^ what he said... Mine are very low and I hit the bump stops most of the time over rough ground, but it means I get great flexibility on the twisty stuff... Pick a number, any number!!

Hence why I need the tube size...... Not planning on paying Staun prices for an inner tube when I can get one from a Motor Factors for a fraction of the price...

Thanks Dan.

Morning all. Anyone know off the top of their head (or have a loose one to look at) what the inner tube size is for a 16" Staun Beadlock? I have in my memory (not that it's always accurate) that they are 145/16, but would like a second opinion before I buy a couple of spares... TIA Adrian

Thanks to all for a cracking start to the season. Punches were a tad limited, but that was due to the limitations of the site rather than the setting out!! Barring 5 punches, It was either a quagmire or a deep puddle to drive through! I'm trying to think of a nice way to say that I don't think we'll bother with a return visit, but I'm failing dismally!! Well done to all the prize winners! It was a real work out for both the toys and the co-drivers, so a great shock for us to be on the podium as we really didn't think we stood a chance! Biggest congrats have to go to the Class 2 drivers! Not entirely sure how you managed to get any punches, let alone get into double figures! A load of pictures available here: Photobucket Courtesy of Rob (aka kirkynut) from the Essex, Rochford and District 4x4 Club. Thanks Rob! Looking forward to West Harptree and hopefully less than 2 hours of jetwashing the truck!! Cheers Adrian

Hi Quedge... What circumstances bring you to need/want to make the winch faster? Given that you already have a Bow2 on it, I guess you have used it in anger and would like to see more... Do you want more speed under load, or for line retrieval or for 'paying out'?? If its getting the rope off the drum, then have a look at the Delta-Tek freespool drums. A set of reduced gears would be the quickest and easiest solution (without absolutely demolishing the bank) to achieving more speed under load... And bear in mind that if you want twin-motors, there are other ways to achieve it than that of Mr Giggle and his pin... Hope that's of some help...

So..........if you are going to go to all the trouble to alter the fragile (at best) standard crossmember, why not fabricate a full rear crossmember that has a winch tray built into it? Something like the Devon 4x4 or North Off Road ones?? I'm sure there are a few examples of home-made rear winch crossmembers on here... Also, why not have the winch under the floor?? Mount the solenoids above the wheel box so you can reach the remote socket, or run some cables to the dashboard and fit a switch there. If you don't mind me saying, it doesn't sound like you are overly precious about the panel work... It is far easier to cut a panel out of the floor and make it look half decent than it is to cut the rear door about. You could even fit a hinged panel with a rubber seal around it to keep the worst of the water out of the rear tub area. In terms of maintenance - 4 bolts and 4 cables to undo/disconnect and the winch is out on the floor and onto the bench to be worked on. I can't remember how many times my rear winch has been in/out, but I know it only tkes 10 minutes to do. There are also a few more ideas here: click me first... click me second... more ideas here... and a load more links in here...

Simple question as the title suggests - can those that have them (or have had them) comment?? My maths say they should be 32.8" - so circa 33" tyre, but they look like they come up larger than that... I previously had a set of 235/85/16 and they came out at 32.5" (maths says they should be 31.9"), so I'm wondering how accurate the sizes are... I know they are a remould and that it kind of depends on what carcasses are used... TIA Adrian

Yeah, thanks Ross - appreciate that! If i didn't use the truck for other things, I would leave it off, but the wife is louder then the Simex when she gets going gsr341 - Any chance that the camera has recharged yet?? The only way that I can see around it is to modify the plastic duct and glue/mastic a cover piece in the right place...

Why cut up the sleepers?? In fact, why use sleepers - they are heavy and awkward. In the past I have used 2 lengths of 4"x4" on top of each other on top of the axle stands. Jack up the truck, slide the wood under the chassis from side to side, then put the axle stands under that... It means the stands are still based on the floor and the 'jaw' digs into the wood at the top... To be honest, if you are working on springs, you are better off jacking up one corner at a time, taking the wheel off and then dropping the axle as low as it will go.

We are in the middle of fitting a set of NOR challenge wings (extreme type if that makes any difference) and are wondering what we have to do to get the standard heater duct to fit back into its original position?? I have read Nige's post from when he fitted a set, but he conveniently skirts around the question of the heater duct when asked... So, what have you done to make it fit? I know most will say just leave it off, but I would like to get it back on there. Piccies are always welcome to help my simple brain understand!! TIA Adrian

That depends... YOU would have to compare the technical regulations for the 2 events. I know that the requirements for a roll cage to meet MSA spec differ between the 2 events... To be honest, it will take 30 minutes to run through the regs for YOU to check compliance. The last thing you want is to take someone else's interpretation of the regs and turn up to the first event and not pass scrutineering. That would be really annoying having spent a load of money to get there... Just my 2p in the pot...

Hmmm, maybe a bit more lube needed then. The Bearmach kit comes with a sachet of grease per bush... I have a bottle of tyre fitting lube on the shelf, maybe I'll try a liberal application of that... Back to the workshop after work tomorrow, then.

Evening! I'm replacing the polybushes in my radius and trailing arms. Nothing new there I hear you cry, but... I have purchased a nice shiny set of Bearmach's polybushes which are supposed to be somewhere between Super Pro blues and Orange Polybushes. Wonderful, just what I'm after... Has anyone else tried a set? If so, how did you manage to fit them? I've just been trying to fit one of the trailing arm bushes for over an hour with the aid of a fairly hefty fly press... The only thing I can manage to do is squash the bushes, even with the aid of various bits of tube to stop the bush distorting... Anyone got any other tips for fitting them?? Next q... Are SuperPro bushes one piece or 2-piece bushes (like the original Polybushes)?? TIA Adrian

The only thing I'm scared of is catching something.......... I have nothing to prove!!...............

We'd have to shake on it and, quite frankly, I can guess where you've been and it doesn't really appeal to me that much!! Lets see if we both make it to the start line, shall we...