Orange

Dan - you can run without a steering damper, in fact some challenge competitors do. It's one less thing to damage. The downside is that driving the vehicle on the road becomes a more active experience where you will feel every knock, bump and pothole. I ran my old Range Rover without one for a while (while I was waiting for a conversion kit to move it to the Defender position) and it was amazing what difference it made.

The steering damper fits to the drop arm adapter to a point on the near-side chassis, so it doesn't matter what steering bars you run, it can still be fitted. (Unless you change the steering drop-arm (from the steering box) to the Discovery type) I have the Bearmach HD Drag Link and Tie Rod and run a delphi steering damper in the usual Defender position without any issues whatsoever.

You have to mount the unit on the outside, but the ear pieces/speakers fit on the inside, otherwise you will not fit your ear inside the defenders... There is a thread HERE which might be the one you are already looking at...

Ooohhh!! You've just reminded me to send my cheque off!! Ta!

Protection and Performance offer a complete removal solution, so you end up with effectively what a TDCi 90 CSW has from the factory if memory serves me right... Clicky link...

Spectators will always be welcome at AWDC events, so feel free to come along... You'll be most welcome. The event will start at 10 (ish) but if you are there earlier, it'll give you a chance to have a wander round and see what's going on with Scruitineering etc and have a peek at some of the trucks, too. Scrutineering is normally open from 8am on the day of the event...

I've just tried to google the Black Diamond edition and can't come up with any images.......but, if the 'roll bar' goes up and over the doors, then attaches to the roof (i.e. not to an internal hoop) it isn't going to add too much protection in an accident, anyway. It will just collapse as it has no bracing. It may well be attached to the chassis at the front, but IMO it won't help much. Removing this type of set-up will leave 4 bolt holes in each wing and 4 on each side of the roof where is locates. Not overly pretty, but I suppose you could make up some little plates to bolt on in place. IMO, better to leave it on and 'deal' with the aesthetics...

Tech Archive is your friend...

You also need to make sure (if you are running modified suspension) that the shocks don't bottom out before the axle hits the chassis. Otherwise you will end up with broken/bent/knackered shocks... It can also mean the difference between the diff hitting the sump and clearing it...

I can't think of any differences between the axles. The only difference with the transfer box is the ratio. Disco is 1.4:1 and Defender is 1.2:1 (or it might be the other way round...) R380s are the same as far as I know.

Shout if I can help... I regularly journey between Horsham and Maidstone (next trip is next Saturday), so could quite easily pick up some lengths from Paul... 2m lengths would be favourable, but longer is doable as I may need to do a run down with the trailer soon anyway... You could then grab them from me at your leisure.

Ian at IRB is near Sutton Coldfield, so not as far as you thought, but still not exactly a quick 'pop over to the mainland'... Definitely worth ringing him (and/or others) as the flash-able ECUs can be done by post. Using next day delivery it could mean only a few days without your truck... However....... There is onething against the postal option.... When I took my Disco up to Ian, he ran a check on all of the injectors etc to make sure they were all functioning properly before the tune. Then on the test-run after the remap, we drove around with the computer plugged in to make sure there were no ill effects. You may even find that Ian may volunteer to meet you somewhere. It was certainly an option when I spoke to him. As long as you are buying lunch, I'm sure he could be convinced...

Buy the biggest trailer you can fit in the storage space!! My 90 looks silly on our trailer, but it means we can use it to move just about any vehicle should the need arise...

It seems to be common. I have seen them condensing on an 06 plate, an 08 plate and also on an 57 plate Autobiography... Never taken one apart, so I can't tell you if you can split the lens off and reseal it, but it might be worth a try if you've got to take it out anyway...

Personally, with something as big and heavy as a RR and with the amount of 'power' that it has, I would be steering clear of budget tyres. If you need all 4 at once, have a look around the usual Kwik-fit type places as they often run discount deals. Otherwise, buy 2 this month and 2 next month... I have also found in the past that it is slightly cheaper to get someone like Black Circles to come out and fit them... Especially as it means they can do it in the work car park rather than me having to take time out and drive to the fitting place...

You'll also more than likely need to remove (or at least lift) the rad to get a decent windy gun in there... Starter method is a lot quicker!!

You haven't missed anything. It'll be the clutch slipping!! Doesn't matter how fresh it is... Try method 3. In my experience it's taken a flick of the key to crack the nut. You don't even get the engine fired up. 10 minutes with the battery charger should see it with enough juice to perform the required task.

Zardos........if my experience is anything to go by, you will receive a response from the MSA chief medical type person wanting a letter from your GP stating that they are happy to support your application and that they do not expect any adverse effects...... Still waiting for my GP to do hers!!!

The Challenger 4x4 series is set-up to allow novices, such as yourself, the chance to compete without (most of) the big guns out playing. Although we started wit a highly modified truck, we spent last years series gradually upgrading the truck and improving our communication and approach in order to get more competitive. We had good results all year and each event improved on the last (except one...!!). It's a competitive event, so the testosterone tends to take over sometimes, but it's all run and entered into in good spirit. There will be teams there running 2 twin-motor 8274s, a centre winch and with 2 locking diffs and 37" tyres......... But we manage to hold our own and come back at the end of the day with a smile on our faces. The most important thing is that you come along and have a bluddy good time while you are partaking in the sport. This includes the night before and the lead up to the event in the morning when you can wander around smugly if you are ready to roll, or frantically work to get ready for the start. The best thing you can do is enter the first round, try it out - more importantly try your team out - and then come back for more once the bug has bitten. The best bit of the Challenger series is the betting book that runs on whether Chris Kelly will make the start on time......... !! :lol: He normally turns up with the winches in the back of the van and the brake/clutch fluid still in a baked bean tin from when he drained it all out!! Just a word of warning for you. If you are going to compete in the first event, you will need a licence from the MSA. (there's a thread in here about it...) It's a fairly simple form to fill in and a cheque to send off and most people must be starting to receive theirs by now, but...... if you have any medical issues, expect the MSA to follow up on it requesting either a full medical, or a letter from your GP. It's not an issue, just another hurdle to jump...

The co-driver will only need a license if they are going to drive the vehicle in a competitive 'manner'. I have spoken to Challenger about this in their series and they are going to avoid any instances (special stages or other) where the co-driver will need to drive... Should bad things happen and the vehicle has to be recovered, the co-driver can drive as this will be deemed to be outside of the competition. I would say that you are pretty safe with just having the driver licenced. There was heated debate last year about the possibility of running a special stage where the co-driver was required to drive and it was pretty clear that it wasn't the way forwards for most teams... I'd say you are better off discussing it with the organisers as they are the only ones that know what's planned.

Your assumption about the split charge system is right. The relay only closes once it senses a load from the alternator, therefore will not solve your problem. What CCA is the spare battery you've got? If it's even slightly more than the new one, it may well be enough for now, then you can replace the main battery with a larger capacity one when funds are more freely available...

It's what it's designed to do. I don't really know why anyone would suggest not to run an earth directly back to the battery -ve post...??? It's the best possible place to earth the electrics...

That price sounds about right. I paid £110 per corner inc VAT and fitting about 3 years ago, so that seems quite reasonable... The other option with the wheels is to go up to 19". There seems to be a good few tyres available in AT tread at that size... Otherwise, you are pretty much limited to the Grabber AT2 in 18". Not that that's an issue. Mine are 35000 miles old and probably just over half worn. With the traction control in the Disco, they have served well for what I do with it which is mainly grassy fields, Scout campsites in the woods, etc... On road, I wouldn't hesitate to buy another set when the time comes...

I have found both the Britpart and Bearmach lift springs far too stiff in the past (even on an RRC). Go for the Terrafirma's...

Ahhh. So now when he slips off them he'll actually have something to moan about...................the lack of skin left on his shins!! Nice!!