80INCH

You really dont need a relay unless your fitting high wattage light bulbs. I swapped the sealed beams in the mini over to h4 halogen conversion with normal 55w bulbs and the existing wiring copes very well, light switch dosn't get hot no problems for 6 years. It is a popular conversion on minis and no relays are needed. I did try 100w bulbs for a couple of months; but the switch got quite hot and melted internally; in this instance you would need one.

Late A+ 89 in minis had a plastic heater control valve mounted in the pipework. It is controlled by a cable with a loop on the end which hooks into the valve unit. here is a link.. if it works - http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=34140 'From 1989 until the introduction of the twin point injection cars, Rover fitted this in line floating heater valve which was the first time they never bolted the heater valve as a direct outlet on the cylinder head. A strange looking black plastic valve to control the water to the heater!'

You poor thing! I did exactly the same as you about 10 years ago because it wasn't working correctly; there's two nuts on the back whuch i unscrewed slightly and moved from side to side.. yes this broke the same wires your talking about. I still haven't gotten around to getting a replacement as when the come up on ebay there soo expensive. So i'm using a moody durite gauge. You can buy new but your looking at around £100, and they have a chrome rim. here's a link.. if it works http://www.gregorysautoparts.co.uk/catalog...p?t=0&c=190

are you sure you have the right belt? where did you buy it from.

They are a bit of a bugger to put on aren't they! Yes it may be easier to unbolt the dynamo; then put it in position before bolting it back. i think thats what i did because its so thick the regular way is just to difficult.. i managed to do it once with screwdrivers as levers pulling it round the pully from underneath tho.

My 2ltr ticks over silently (it is a car engine after all from the posh p3) I'm thinking you may either have adjusted them using the wrong procedure; or the pads on the rockers themselves where they touch the valve are worn away; so when you insert your feeler blade it's touching the unworn part leaving that little bit of clearance. see pic of wear on my my old rocker -

when the gears were new.. ish they had a shiny smoothe finish to them. like inside gearbox. Now they just look scored to bits inside the teeth. will phone round some suppliers tomorrow.

Its been getting worse over the few past hot days; at idle the oil light would flicker and a nasty rattly noise would appear to come from the top of the engine from the dizzy. I fitted a new pressure releaf spring as well as wound in the adjustment nut but that made no difference to oil pressure light flickering with each revolution. All I can say is six months ago i cleaned the sump along with pump filter and noticed the spindle bush for the idler gear had didn't have a nut on the end. This i duly replaced; and now this has happened.. it must be the cause. look at the pics please! they a little hard to get hold of these days, dunsfold said nope and to try ring around. I'm tempted to try some new gears (if available), a cog spindle, the pump/dizzy driveshaft, ball bearing and plunger., but it looks like the case is worn out.. will it go again? Its the origional 1953 unit from a 2.0 petrol. a little circular wear on the top part sides feel alright one side is a but worn the other looks ok gears were good six months ago

My hood from exmore trim has a two inch gap between the tailgate and canvas. I have to put all my weight on it to pull it down and fasten it up quick! its only 3 years old as well...

na im putting a dash on the belt itself and the noise goes away.. but the pump will be replaced when i can get hold of an origional. the pattern pumps are useless. talcum powder.. will give it a try tomorrow! i have silicone dry lube spray.. but won't that wear off after a while?

I wanted to put a new fanbelt on the series one, and keep the origional period belt in a safe place. This new belt is different in that like modern belts it has a cogged design where as the origional was just v shaped; and it just makes a terrible racket.. scrunchy squeeky. Turn it over on the handle slowly and it still does this. Putting water on the belt makes the noise go away so i know its not the water pump... so is it defective? It seems to fit ok in the pullys; perhaps it will wear in??

Have a looks at Speed ferries, who use that sea cat that used to be hoverspeed and are quite reasonable. I have a quote for £38 outbound and £34 return from dover to boulogne in july.

mine's so old it only needs one wiper motor. So why not remove your faulty unit completly... if its not fitted then it can't be tested.

On my brick driveway i used a blowtorch. Burns it right out of the brick. Very good results.

IF you indeed have a series 2 box you have to leave a slight pause between selecting first and second. (from my series 1 manual)

no we didn't have one of those!.. well i do but in the everyday landy. Its soot!

Mabye I could remake it myself... get some wire and heat shrink wrap from maplins... food for thought guys thank you! Its not been on the road for a few years.. used to be a very fast 110, putting most cars to shame. The plan was to sell it; so I fixed it up, got it mot'd and taxed.. now i'll repair this minor problem and try again..

Your telling me! The thought was going through my mind at the time... seeing cars go up in flames on police camera action so many times... lucky there was no sound deadening felt left on the bonnet.. i think it would of done if there had been. Series one pressed back into service for the time being..

Today me and dad were returning from our lock-up a half hours drive away, were accelerating.. (not that hard) up to around 60 and there was a big bang/pop from the engine bay, a loss of power and 3 more bang/pops. Then smoke started so enter the cabin from every part of the bulkhead. We pulled over, I jumped out and looked underneath and the whole loom was in flames.. BIG flames. Managed to disconnect the battery as i thought it was shorting out but.. no that wasn't it.. the terminal cables were cool. Called 999 and the firemen came pretty quickly, put out the flames and suggested the carb had backfired, set light to the airfilter, ignited the fuel in the fuel filter, exploded the glass filter bowl... need I say more! SO>> DO ANY OF YOU CHAPS HAVE A LOOM FOR A 1983 110 V8?

Yippeee the A reg 110 v8 is back on the road after 5 years of sitting around! There are two pipes coming out of the petrol tank. One is part of the sender unit on the off side; the other comes into the tank at the front in the middle. It is leaking here; from the join where the pipe goes into the tank, in fact i can turn the pipe and it wobbles in all directions. {I beleive this is a return line but not sure.} Now i know there is no return line connected to the carb anymore as the engine has been played with and has a holley carb with only a feed pipe. So Would it be possible to pull out the pipe, and plug the hole with chemical metal / milliput and a bung of some sort?

Suffolk! to be honest no; where abouts? i could do with one to be honest.

Here is the level plug

My local motorist shop sells it. If you look on ebay there's quite a few on there also for sale...

Try a propper penetrating oil .. such as plusgas. WD40 is not a penetrant its a water displacer/lubricant.. hence the name .

I wouldn't say the belt's to tight.. well its adjusted to give the right 1/2inch movement midway between the pullys. I found a magazine write up about them from 10 years ago, going on about quality etc.. I wish i hadn't broken the origional when i removed it all those years ago.. they are rebuildable.. but i think these pattern ones are not! steve b if you do have one going spare let me know.. I plan to buy another pattern to tide me over for the time being.. cheapest i've found is from land-rover orphanage for £35.. everywhere else is £50.. not exactly alot but it is when they don't last long. on the subject of swivels i've immersed the leather and metal type in gear oil overnight.. will try that one tomorrow. I'm thinking the leather swells up and helps create a good seal?