110_USA

Have played around with the pedal adjustment some but I don't know what is "right." At the moment, fully depressed it is a millimeter from the bulkhead. When it first went back together it was about 4 or 5 cm from the bulkhead fully depressed. It feels "ok" but maybe a little light when pressing it. Changed everything but the master cylinder yesterday, function checked it but it was doing the same thing, changed the master today and there is no difference.

Replaced the clutch plate, cover, release bearing, pilot bushing, release fork, master, and slave cylinders. The clutch now will not fully disengage. I can still shift into 1st (although not easily) with the pedal fully depressed but not into reverse. Have bled a quart of brake fluid through the system and haven’t seen any air in quite a while. Any thoughts?

I remember reading an article about those things a few years ago. It said that the effect caused does increase air flow compared to a simple vacuum, however the fact that it needs the metal plates to create it, makes it non functional; the added resistance negates the benefit. If it came with a power source then it would work, oh wait, they make those...

I certainly wouldn't go "historical" in that sense. For a couple reasons, but the most important is it's way beyond my budget. In the US it's kind of funny, I guess most people with Series Rovers and Defenders here have a lot to spend. Simple non genuine parts are comparable to genuine bits in the UK. I'll never forget the $250 door cards (each), $750 bonnet, or $80 fan belt on a domestic suppliers website, I had to hold back the laughter.

I look forward to the photos phoenix. I'll take a gander through the tech archive, might post a few of mine for a review, sometimes it's easer to see what is wrong than what is right. I'd like to get the bits back together so more of the proper parts will fit and everything will make more sense in relation to the manuals, not so much for the "historical" aspect, although it could be interesting going that rout. Thanks for the responses.

Matt Neale pretty much covered it. The engine gets different oil depending on the fuel. Don't know what they are using for petrol but something like Shell Rotella T 15W-40 seems to be the ticket for diesel. The main gearbox (if it's a LT77) gets automatic transmission fluid, although now they actually make a "manual transmission fluid" or (MTF), which is supposedly better. *** From what I understand EP Gear Oil has a chemical which will erode the syncros in the main gearbox*** The transfer case and differentials get an Extreme Pressure "EP" 80W/90 Gear Oil, although I'm not aware of any problem going to say EP 90W/140 depending on the climate. The swivels get either "swivel grease," which looks like liquid graphite and is more of a mess than gear oil, but has some advantages; or a EP 80W/90 Gear Oil. (I'm conducting an experiment; Right swivel, "One Shot Swivel Grease," Left is an EP 80W/90.) I don't know the availability outside the US but the biggest names here include. Motor Oil and ATF: Shell and Mobil 1 Gear Oil: (above included) Lucas, no I'm not joking... and Royal Purple. I'm not an oil aficionado but it is my understanding that synthetic oils (motor and gear) are designed for very specific purposes and should only be used when called for, otherwise the benefit doesn't justify the cost. Take all that^ with a grain of salt, I'm a noob too.

Long story short I have a ex-military 110. 2.5L N/A Diesel. I didn't do much of the work that has brought it to where it is today, rather, numerous anonymous contributers, both talented and inept. It's my first Land Rover and first Diesel. I'm trying to get everything back in tip top shape and so far it's been a lot of fun, dirty, greasy, smelly fun. Anyhow, I'd like to see some photos of 2.5 N/A's (under the bonnet) to compare placement of all the bits and pieces. You see, I don't know where anything is "suppose" to be; and this once RHD is now LHD, so that adds a little ambiguity. The more detailed the better. I apologize for my noobishness and thanks in advance.

Thanks WALFY and western!

western to the rescue once again, thank you very much. (All I can find from Craddock/Paddock etc is the bushing; does it somehow not have a actual bearing, only a bushing?)

Does anyone know the part number for the 2.5 N/A Diesel - pilot bearing and flywheel?

Thank you.

The only number I could find was. MK2/3 19928C Located in the red circle.

Checked them all again, all seem to be in good working order and well greased. Today the noise didn't happen at all until it started to rain, and then only a little, couldn't get to happen past 2nd gear and it wouldn't happen when the clutch peddle was depressed. I'm thinking I'll have to inspect the clutch plate and bearing. Anyone know what else it might be before I go that rout?

I was wondering about that because it happens when the clutch is fully engaged, at that point there isn't any stress on the bearing correct? Or can it happen any time?

Since we're on the topic, how about a 2.5L N/A Diesel?

I have a 2.5L N/A Diesel with an LT77. Just the other day I noticed a noise while shifting into second, a lot like a slipping clutch, so much so I thought that must be it, until today. (What I knew two days ago) It would only occur in 1st through 3rd, while accelerating or maintaining speed. It would usually only happen for a second, I would ease off and try again and it would stop. It would only happen while the engine was cold and for maybe the first mile. Maybe 3 or 4 times during that mile. It did not occur in neutral. (What I found out today, after experimenting) It does occur in neutral, with and without the clutch engaged, and seems to take a little longer to go away, happening maybe once or twice after 20min of driving. It has squealed up to 4th gear but I haven't been able to get it to do it in 5th. So far it hasn't happened in reverse. The sound is like a cross between a slipping clutch and a belt. It oscillates slightly and seems cyclical. It is directly related to acceleration, both in neutral and while making way. Haven't been able to get it to do it without moving. I thought perhaps the clutch plate was warn and slipping a little until hot and then it would grab a little tighter. I inspected the fan belt and after market A/C belt and they both seem taunt and not overly warn or slick. Any ideas? Thanks.

I'm going to replace the exhaust on a 110 2.5 N/A diesel due to excessive rust. Finding a lot of 200 Tdi pipes but not too many for the 2.5 N/A. Are there any compatible pipes or heads from any other models such as the 200 Tdi? I would also like to do away with the center muffler and just rely on the resonator given that it isn't very loud epically compared to the engine noise. (not that I want "loud" but I'm hoping it wont be obnoxious) If it helps any it's a 83/84 Ex-Military and I believe that the block is of the turbo variety based on info from another thread. I can provide photos if needed. Thoughts and suggestions appreciated. Cheers

Thats similar to what I heard when my bearings went out, was most severe during turning but would happen occasionally just going straight.

I'm by no means an expert or even one who is very knowledgeable, but I can help on some things. Someone will probably help better, but as no responses yet, I'll pitch in. On the filter, an oil bath (I assume thats what you have and are thinking of converting to a regular filter) is the best, in about every sense of the word, it's just messy when it comes to cleaning/changing time. I don't think there is an appreciable diffrence in performance between the two. (I might be wrong) I have a 110 3 door, also a 2.5 N/A, and have 90' size seats in the rear, they are comfortable for about an hour then start to be a bit more uncomfortable, they can fit two people well (one in each; for better leg room) I've seen the forward facing seats and they are a bit too cumbersome for my taste. Just personal preference, I hate halogen bulbs, especially when they are on someone else's vehicle and I get to stare at them during the night, they are far brighter than necessary for typical applications. I get about 400 miles to a tank in a 110' not sure of the capacity in a 90' but mine holds about 20 gallons. Again I'm not an expert, but, I don't think much can be done to boost a 2.5 N/A, its "light" for lack of a better word, but gets the job done, my max cruising speed is between 80 and 90 kph. You might be able to retrofit a turbo but I don't know much about that. If it was a farm truck I would defiantly change the transmission, gearbox, differential, and swivel fluids in case they have accumulated some water. That might also help some with the sticky 5th gear, while not a fix, it might lube things up a little. Not sure if the transmission and gearbox can accumulate water but I would change them none the less. I have some pretty gangley after market windows cut into the rear. They only leak a little. I like the added light inside and it helps a bit backing up. My windows are also sliding so when they are cracked and the front vents open, it creates a pleasant draft. Hope I was able to help.

What is the EPC? I missed it, I too would most likely be interested in a copy.

Woah! Lots of info. Thanks a bunch everyone. On a side note about copying disc's that do not wish to be copied. I've only done it once but it worked. I had a DVD movie that was encrypted something fierce. I tried all the tricks I knew and couldn't copy it. A friend of mine came to help and brought a roll of electric tape... I was thinking what you are probably thinking. It depends on how it's done but one way is they add whatever the security info is at the very end of the disk. If you have ever looked at the back you can see changes in color, from where the blank disk (the outside ring) meets the information (the inside ring). With that type of encryption you can see a tiny ring at the border between the two bigger ones. (It was about 1mm thick.) Cut the tape about the size of a stamp and place it on the back of the disk so it obstructs that tiny ring. It doesn't madder how much of the blank is obstructed but you don't want to cover any of the information. The drive simply can't read the security ring and disregards it as corrupted info. Placement of the tape needs to be pretty close but not microscopic. I was surprised it actually worked. Might want to give it a try the next time you run into anything that is insistent that it doesn't want to be copied. Another example of low tech showing high tech what for.

Need some sort of manual for a 83/84 Defender 110'. The more detailed the better, I do love some pictures . Also where do these handy exploded diagrams I've seen on the forum with LR part numbers come from? The LR manual perhaps? Anywhere I can get one (CD is ok, would prefer book, can't bring computer out the garage) that isn't quite so expensive? Thanks.

I would try a gravity bleed. The same thing started to happen to me, although didn't get that bad. I just bleed out some air, refilled, and was good to go.

Thank you very much diesel_jim, I'm at work but when I get the chance I'll froward contact info to everyone that can chip in. Cheers

If it were a couple of little things then not much more than you could fit into a foot locker. If I needed a fuel tank or door then probably that item alone + or - the foot locker. If for some reason I needed a roof, body panel, prop shaft, and springs, all in a relatively short amount of time, thats up to you, weather you can wait to ship everything all together or if you need to send it off as it comes in. I would always let you know what I was thinking about and ask if you had the space for it and could accept it at that time. If I had to guess, it would be some bits and pieces for one or two shipments, then maybe something big or a few more bits every couple months. Also if it were just an envelope of gaskets or something of that nature, just whenever is convenient for you to froward it along. Thanks again, Andrew